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Need AC help, badly

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Old May 17, 2018 | 05:24 AM
  #1  
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Need AC help, badly

Prepping for a trip next week, and realized the AC manifold hose that runs from the compressor to the accumulator is leaking. Shops says all the refrigerant is gone, and is having trouble finding a new hose. I ordered one from Rockauto (GPD 4812048) and may have to replace it myself, but have no idea what I'm doing. What I do have is questions:

1) Is this is simple as replacing the hose assembly and recharging the system?
2) How do I know how much PAG oil to put back in?
3) Do I need to replace the accumulator, too?
4) I read here that the orifice should be replaced, too. I don't understand where it is, or if the special tool is required to R/R it
5) What have I not asked that I should have?

Thanks!!

Mark
 
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Old May 17, 2018 | 05:52 AM
  #2  
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01__Excursion
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From: Rock Hill, SC
Typically you should replace the the receiver/drier whenever you open the system. The desiccant has a life span anyway once in service, IE: it will only be active for so long.
I've been using my own judgement after being a HVAC, and small appliance tech for 28 years. For me it just depends on how long the system has been exposed to atmospheric air, and if I felt like it was long enough to warrant changing the drier, and what ever other conditions exist.
If the system was providing it's expected cooling before it lost it's freon, then leave the strainer alone. Typically the strainer, or strainer/orifice will last the life of the vehicle, unless there was system contamination from a compressor failure, or repeated opening of the system for repairs, ect. The amount of oil to add for replacing the hose is basically moot, a teaspoon at best if at all, a new receiver/drier may take 2oz to 3oz. of fresh oil. PAG oil is hygroscopic, meaning it's a sponge for moisture, so the bigger concern would be how much possible moisture contamination does the oil in the system hold, if your total freon loss is very recent, and/or you have been driving the vehicle daily, then your potential for moisture intrusion will be very low. The key would be during the vacuum stage, the system must be brought down to 32 inches of vacuum, or 320ish microns. The presence of moisture will prevent you from reaching that low of a vacuum, so don't rush system evacuation. It's best to replace any O rings or seals for each connection that you open as well.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2018 | 08:53 AM
  #3  
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ScaldedDog
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Thanks for your help, man. The shop I was using had a hose made, and I'm back running with cold AC.

Mark
 
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