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Ignition control module wiring help

Old May 14, 2018 | 05:51 AM
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Ignition control module wiring help

So I bought thus product here Ignition/Distributor

and the question I have is how do I incorporate the ignition control module to the wires off the distributor and the coil?
2 wires off distributor black and red.
2 terminals off the coil positive+ and negative-
what goes to the old 3 wire connection from distributor.
I have a 1979 F150 460 not sure if that matters.
Thank you.
 
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Old May 14, 2018 | 07:34 AM
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did it come with instructions? If it is like others I've seen, you won't need the original wiring or duraspark box.
 
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Old May 14, 2018 | 07:57 AM
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Is it just me or is the picture in the ebay link not an HEI distributor?

Edit: Sorry, went back and read the description. Got it now. Also, I don't understand the benefits of HEI over the stock Duraspark.

I have no experience, with this one, but looks like you just need a power source like you would for a points distributor. I swapped in a petronix unit for points once and it just came with the two wires. So maybe check a wiring diagram for a truck with a points setup. Like the previous post said, you probably won't use any of the factory ignition stuff.
 
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Old May 14, 2018 | 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by dlburch
did it come with instructions? If it is like others I've seen, you won't need the original wiring or duraspark box.
yes it comes with instructions but they are very vague it just shows hooking up Power and Brown from distributor to ignition coil. So if I understand this correctly you just disconnect the old three wires off the old distributor and then installed new distributor power and ground to coil and then find powered ignition on source?
 
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Old May 14, 2018 | 11:23 AM
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These are directions so leave old wires snd controll box alone
 
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Old May 14, 2018 | 11:27 AM
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The directions are the first image the second image with the resistor is not the correct image I could not figure out how to delete it
 
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Old May 14, 2018 | 12:18 PM
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You'll need to find a 12 VDC switched source to and from the ignition switch. These guys run the best on 12 VDC.
You can unhook all the DSII wiring from the harness to the ICM to the coil to the distributor, and yank the distributor.

Hope you put # 1 piston on TDC and on the compression stroke for ease of installation.....
 
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Old May 15, 2018 | 02:44 AM
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Did you buy the whole rig with that e-core coil like in the picture you linked to?
If so you won't use the old Green w/red wire to your old coil. As FB mentioned you need a new 12v source and the old Green w/red wire is a resistor wire, as they're indicating by showing a ballast resistor. Same result, different method.

Are you saying that you only have the Red and the Black wires from the distributor? Or did you word it that way only because you already know what to do with the Orange wire?

Black goes to a ground on the engine. This is a good reason to double check to make sure you have good grounds in all the usual spots, including a strap between the back of the intake and the firewall.
Orange as you know goes to the coil's positive.
Red needs a 12v source, and you need to find, or make one yourself. They're showing that with the full 12v you can actually use just one 12v wire and that can feed both the ignition coil and the distributor their power.

Even though there are a few common sources, maybe if you an post up a pic of your engine compartment wiring we can make a suggestion on where to take the power feed from.

Good luck.

Paul
 
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Old May 15, 2018 | 06:24 AM
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Originally Posted by 1TonBasecamp
Did you buy the whole rig with that e-core coil like in the picture you linked to?
If so you won't use the old Green w/red wire to your old coil. As FB mentioned you need a new 12v source and the old Green w/red wire is a resistor wire, as they're indicating by showing a ballast resistor. Same result, different method.

Are you saying that you only have the Red and the Black wires from the distributor? Or did you word it that way only because you already know what to do with the Orange wire?

Black goes to a ground on the engine. This is a good reason to double check to make sure you have good grounds in all the usual spots, including a strap between the back of the intake and the firewall.
Orange as you know goes to the coil's positive.
Red needs a 12v source, and you need to find, or make one yourself. They're showing that with the full 12v you can actually use just one 12v wire and that can feed both the ignition coil and the distributor their power.

Even though there are a few common sources, maybe if you an post up a pic of your engine compartment wiring we can make a suggestion on where to take the power feed from.

Good luck.

Paul
Paul thank you great post.
Yes bought what I linked got
distributor with 2 wires black and white
coil with positive and negative hookups
and 9 plug wires
so with that I do not have an orange wire in the kit.
here is the only pic I have for now till I get home today and at that time I'll post another.
I greatly appreciate the help guys.
 
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Old May 15, 2018 | 06:28 AM
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Can i us the power from the old coil
 
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Old May 15, 2018 | 10:07 AM
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Always some little glitch, no? Haha...these rat b7stards send you color coded instructions but no color coded wires in real life. That's a fine kettle of fish!

My opinion is that your best bet would be to lay out everything you have as close as you can to the top picture in post # 5. That way you/we won't be confused as to the wiring hookup from the distributor (cap off), through the connection and to the coil. AND POST UP PICTURES OF IT!

I could tell you to trace the wiring from the connections and match them to the inside of the distributor's breaker plate...but since you only have a BLACK (usually a ground - could be the ORANGE wire here in your picture) and a WHITE (+) coil ( could be the RED wire here in your picture) laying everything out is a better idea....then you could label 'em and be sure.

And, NO you CANNOT use the power from your old coil......re-read posts # 7 & 8 about the 12 VDC switched source, the wiring from the existing distributor, post # 8, second sentence where Paul mentions the GREEN/r wire.
What you have now in your setup is the second picture in your post # 5......the START/ByPASS BALLAT RESISTOR CIRCUIT. If you use the power from your old coil, you'll get 12 VDC upon START but then you'll be running ~ 9 VDC in RUN. Not conducive for these HEI type distributors to run efficiently.
 
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Old May 15, 2018 | 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Patdabin
yes it comes with instructions but they are very vague it just shows hooking up Power and Brown from distributor to ignition coil. So if I understand this correctly you just disconnect the old three wires off the old distributor and then installed new distributor power and ground to coil and then find powered ignition on source?
Correctomundo. It's easy as 1-2-3:

1. Connect the two wires coming out of the distributor to the new coil. (blk is probably neg)

2. Connect key switched + 12V from anywhere ( I suggest tapping into your ignition switch, replace the pink resistor wire with some regular yellow 12-14 gauge auto wire.

3. Send me your duraspark wire harness for proper disposal.
 
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Old May 15, 2018 | 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by jackietreehorn
Correctomundo. It's easy as 1-2-3:

1. Connect the two wires coming out of the distributor to the new coil. (blk is probably neg)

2. Connect key switched + 12V from anywhere ( I suggest tapping into your ignition switch, replace the pink resistor wire with some regular yellow 12-14 gauge auto wire.

3. Send me your duraspark wire harness for proper disposal.
3. ^^^
You need the harness? How much is needed
is duraspark a better system
 
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Old May 15, 2018 | 12:54 PM
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Haha! Yeah, don't just throw away that old setup. Unless both the distributor and the ICM are fried, or literally melted, they're one of the best Ford setups you can use. Or sell...
Or give to jackietreehorn!

I too would like to see under the distributor cap to see what type of trigger mechanism it's running. Might be a Pertronix-type (or even a Pertronix Ignitor in the flesh) or something else. But curious what it is.
You're correct. A 2-wire distributor is going to be Red 12v positive, and Black negative side of the coil to trigger a spark.
And to stave off (hopefully) any future confusion about the wording, they're using the abbreviation HEI to stand for "high energy ignition" which was it's original terminology at the time that GM came out with their "HEI" ignitions. But those are a completely different beast, with their own trigger, single power wire, really huge cap and an integrated coil. So basically a stand-alone, 1-wire setup (2 wires if you connect a tachometer).
For the most part, over the years we've gotten away from calling the GM derived units HEI's and everything else anything but HEI. Just to avoid confusion.
Guess CRT is being their own company and bucking the trend and stirring the pot by calling theirs HEI. Can't say they're wrong, as it still stands for high energy ignition. Just kind of strange seeing the name used on anything but those big monster cap distributors.

In this case, your distributor grounds through it's body to the engine block. The Orange wire in your instructions would then be the Black wire from your distributor to the coil. And the Red wire is still the Red wire to the positive side of the coil and your new 12v power source.
Depending on what model truck you may have an unused power wire somewhere, or as said you can run your own.

Is this a 2wd or 4wd truck? Obviously the engine came from a 2wd truck or car, since it's got the front dipstick, and none of the 4wd's ever had a 460 anyway.
If a 4wd, watch your oil pan clearance unless you've changed to a 4wd rear sump pan.

Oh, and curious why you're changing out the style of ignition? Is it just to clean things up, or put in all new stuff for a new engine install? Or was something wrong with the old setup?
Thanks for the pics.

Paul
 
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Old May 15, 2018 | 12:56 PM
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"Is DSII a better system?" It's a good system, nothing wrong with it.

well, it's on yer rig now....why would you want to change it..(silly me, never asked that)? Is it malfunctioning?

In the flyer for your HEI type that you have, it says may be able to increase the plug gap UP TO 0.050" Are you not at ~ 0.044" now?
 
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