I picked up a new 03 Black Ex lmtd 4x4 6.0 PSD recently. It's my first ford after a long line of GM trucks. I broke my hip in 7 places playing with ATV's 2 days later so my pretty new truck is sitting out in the garage with 300 miles on it calling to me.

I've read all the owners manual a couple of times for the truck. I'm bored, okay? I've got some questions.

I see the hubs have manual and auto external lockers. I'm not used to seeing those as Chevy did away with them many years ago. The manual seems to be telling me that if I get stuck and then put the truck in 4wd, the hubs won't lock up by themselves. But the manual never mentions anything about having to manually twist them, either. Can someone please explain how this works? I'm sure hoping that I don't have to get out in the mud, etc to lock the hubs if I get stuck. What a huge step backwards that would be!

The manual also says something about the hubs will eventually unlock by themselves while driving but it's quicker if you go in reverse for a few feet to help. Again, shades of old technology. What are you experiences with this? Do the hubs unlock themselves pretty quickly after dropping out of 4wd?

The seat heaters seem crude. They only have one setting, the button is hard to see while driving and they only stay on for 10 minutes. The one's on our GM's have a hi and low, are mounted on the door for easy viewing and stay on until you turn them off. Are the ford ones adequate for MN type winters or do you find yourself pushing the button over and over again to keep them heated? Do they heat both the back and bottom part or just the bottom part of the seat?

Our GM's also have auto dimming mirrors but that system dims the outside mirrors, too. I'm afraid the Ex only dims the inside mirror after reading the manual, though. Is that true?

It looks like the 7 wire connector for my trailer will be easy to hook up to my brake controller but I'm wondering about the hot lead that powers the interior lights for the trailer. The wiring diagram that came with the pigtail seems to show that wire as being only live when the key is in the on position. Can anyone confirm that? If that's true, is there an easy place to tap off of to run a "live all the time" wire back there?

Does anyone make a valve for the oil pan for this motor yet? I used a Fumoto valve on my dmax and that worked great for controllable oil draining.

The Ex brochure mentioned something called a "BlockerBeam" in the saftey/security section. The description is "Front bumper underride protection system". Can anyone explain what that means?

It has Goodrich Rugged Trail TA's on it. Is that a good tire? How much life should I expect out of them? I plan to rotate every 5000 miles.

Sorry for all the questions. I may need to ask some or all of them in different forums but I thought I'd start here.

Thanks for any responses.

 

Hubs: the front tire has to be able to rotate a bit (1/2 turn?) for the hubs to engage in "Auto" setting. So if you get stuck completely before switching to 4x4, you gotta get your feet wet. So don't go into a hole in 4x2 OK?

If a soft spot sneaks up and you still have slight forward momentum, quickly switch to 4x4 but BACK OFF THE GAS as the hubs will engage with a mighty bang. Not pretty if your a spline gear.

The hubs will eventually release after switching back to 4x2. But the pressure built up in the hub friction surfaces requires a bit time to slide out. Reverse helps but is not critical.

Watch your hub o-ring seals. If the seal leaks your hubs will goo up and not like to release. There's a long thread in here on my saga with removing the hubs. Its simple...but not easy if your hubs have seen a decent dose of dirt.

Seat Heater! You don't need no stinkin' seat heater! Bean Burritos...need I say more? Or IS that a stinkin' seat heater?

Mirror dimmer: I love the GM exterior dimmer. Ford missed this one. Only the interior dims. Mickey Mouse solution: adjust your exteriors to just outside your normal poster and tilt your head to see behind.

Trailer wiring: Beats me...next.

Oil plug tap: I drive a V10 and I live for the feel of steaming oil running down my sleeve.

Front Blocker Beam: this was an afterthought to address one of the complaints about full size SUVs and trucks that they squish Miatas. The Blocker Beam is behind the plastic airdam and positioned lower than the frame members to stop Miata land submarines from diving and scuttling your transfer case. The rear blocker beam is guess what? Yup the trailer hitch.

If anything slides uder the "Blocker Beams" they shouldn't be on the road. Or at least while they're under there, maybe they could install the oil drain tap for you.

Goodrich Tires: Dunno. I run Toyos from Tokyo.

 

Very easy to hook up the brake controller and mount it right below the cubby hole in the dash. Double check your wire connections because the brake controller lingo may be a bit off from the Ford lingo. Don't count on matching wire colors either.

I can confirm that it is true that the hot wire is only on with the key in the 'on' position. I am also interested in a good place to tap a 'live all the time' wire. It is a pain to always have the key on to turn on the trailer lights and stereo.

 

LOL! Funny stuff!

Thanks for the information guys. Very helpful.

 

I've heard guys who apply window tint on their sideview mirrors to help with glare. As for me, if I get frustrated enough I just punch the mirror. When you drive a 7,000lb+ tank, let them look out for you!

 

Jeb, my 2000 X heated seats will stay on until you turn off the button or the key. They warm the thighs and lower back. I've used mine exactly once here in Texas, but my wife loves them and uses the passenger heater whenever the temperature drops below 50. I don't really like it. It made me feel like I wet my pants.