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Well.....suddenly my truck will not spin over and I figured it was the clutch interlock switch (5 speed manual) so I replaced it and......not the problem.
I tried to find out how to check the switch before I purchased a new one, but couldn't find that information anywhere.
So.....if it's NOT the clutch interlock switch.....what else?
I can turn the ignition on and cross across the starter solenoid with a screwdriver and it starts right up.
That little red wire that goes to the solenoid shows about 3.5 volts so there is a signal going to the solenoid.
But, if I can start it with a screwdriver, does that mean the solenoid is good?
Thought for sure it was the clutch switch.......but.....as usual.....it's something else.
I believe this is a pre92 setup, but if you are referring to this red wire... it should have 12 volts to engage the solenoid. I do not believe 3.5 is enough to energize the coil and pull it in.
it could also be a worn bushing in the clutch pedal not allowing the pedal arm to depress the switch, or it could also be a broken firewall allowing the clutch master cylinder to flex causing the switch to not close.
Bushing is fine, firewall is sturdy.....I still think it's the clutch switch.....but what are the chances of a cheap Chinese part being defective right out of the box?
Here is a photo of my plug.....anyone bypassed this one before?
top-bottom blue/yellow purple/white green green red/blue red/blue
...but what are the chances of a cheap Chinese part being defective right out of the box?
Now that's funny right there. Not sure if I heard the sarcasm in your statement, or if you've been lucky enough to not have run across it before. But the state of the cheap imported parts these days is literally the top Pet Peeve of ours in most of the forums.
If not The top one, then at least in the top three.
Starter relays, ignition switches, voltage regulators, brake pads and shoes, neutral safety switches, and starter relays. Yes, I mention those twice. Not repeating myself by accident either. Just emphasizing the futility of hoping for more than a 60% chance of getting a good one. Chances go down as quickly as the prices. The percentage of successfully working parts goes up slightly at the higher prices, but has not gone away completely yet. But we keep trying!
Looks like easy enough access in your case. Give a small jumper wire a try. Looks like you may not even have to unplug the connector.
Just push the wire into both cavities with the Red w/blue wires from the outside to temporarily jumper them together.
Crossing fingers that's the issue, but if not at least you're narrowing things down.
Hmm, now that I look at the diagram, better wait for someone more well versed in modern electrical setups on the Fords.
On early models, it was a simple matter of jumping the two sides of the Red w/blue together to complete the circuit. Not sure that's how the switch works in your case though. Hopefully someone can confirm or deny my previous answer.
Just use a multimeter on the continuity setting put the leads on both bl/r wires and depress the clutch. If it goes to continuity then the switch is closing and making contact. Then, go from one wire to ground and hit the key and look for voltage. And repeat with the other. If you get 12v at each then the problem is some where else.
I have continuity on the red/blue wires but I only have power to the solid green wire next to the red/blue wires......no other wires have 12v with key on and clutch down or up
