I got the slotted and dimpled rotors from brakeperformance.com, and they work a lot better than stock.

 

i looked up my two wheel drive van and the rotors they show don't have hubs.

 

The pictures are illustrative; may not represent actual product. If you click on the part no/dimensions, it shows actual dimensions.

Also, I'm not sure what year your van is, but I recommend getting the 1992 and later rotors, as they are directional, and provide better cooling than the earlier non-directional versions. Some vendors will advertise the non-directional versions for the 1992 and later models, but I do not recommend those; you need as much brake cooling as you can get from those tiny rotors.

 

AND bumping this older thread. It's time for front rotors as my 93 fronts are again warped.

Is this the set which was recommended?

https://brakeperformance.com/brake-r...-brake-kit.php

 

I would not recommend cross-drilled rotors unless you plan to replace them often. I recommend the dimpled (and slotted) rotors, as they last longer:

https://brakeperformance.com/brake-r...nc-coating.php

Front rotors for 4wd: RBF 65029L / RBF 65030R (Black L/R rotors) or RSF for silver

Front rotors for 2wd: RBF 65034L / RBF 65033R (or RSF for silver) These cost a bit more because of the integrated hubs.

Use the SALE code to get the new caliper pins for free.

The pads use these spring clips in the calipers to keep them from rattling, but the new ones provided by Brakeperformance are too big to fit, so I ended up using the originals.

 

in my experience with 3 Aerostar since 1986, all rotors warp after 18-24 months, so I now buy the cheapest, they warp the same as the expensive ones.

 

But cross-drilled rotors will actually crack when heat stressed the way an Aerostar usually does to brake rotors when any significant loads are applied.

 

These guys are $211 for the set with metallic pads! Not a low cost solution... but I'm tired of changing these damn rotors every couple years. My time is more valuable..... so considering. Wasn't there another solution touted on this board... cryogenic treated rotors that were extremely hard?

 

I think we all have gone through rotors. I've got really fast at doing them. Thats my solution.

 

The first time I replaced warped rotors on my Aerostar, I did not know better, and got the standard replacements from my local parts store, for about $70 for the set. They lasted about 2 years before they started warping.

I did a little research before getting my next set, and found that Ford spec'd the directional rotors for the 1992 and later models. I found "heavy duty" rotors for about $100 for the set. Then I added a set of "heavy duty" brake pads for about $30. This setup lasted a long time before the rotors started warping again, so I felt it was worth the additional cost.

In all cases, the pads and rotors had plenty of thickness left before the rotors started warping. The simple fact is that the brakes are way undersized for the Aerostar, especially mine, which is 4wd extended length, and weighs over 4000 pounds.

My last upgrade were the slotted and dimpled rotors from Brakeperformance, mainly because they were the first place where I was able to find slotted rotors. I stayed away from the cross-drilled versions because I've heard too many stories of that type cracking under heavy use. It's like they're for racing only, and you treat them like consumables that you replace after each racing season, or sooner. The biggest advantage I found with these new rotors is that they provide noticeably better stopping power over anything I've had before. Maybe it's the slots cutting through the pads that give a stronger grip, or maybe those dimples are actually doing their job allowing dust to escape. This model also comes with a lifetime warranty against warping. I haven't had to call them on this yet, so I don't know just how good it is.

I will note that their premium plain rotors cost about the same as the HD rotors that I had used before.

The also have an in-between model that are plain rotors with slots.

Whatever you go with, I strongly recommend getting the directional types, as they provide better cooling. Just make sure you mount the correct one on each side.

 

My 87 has over 300,000 miles and I have never changed the rotors and never experienced any warping. I've even had a caliper lock up and it didn't warp the rotor.
What are you guys hauling in these vans? Gold bullion?

 

I tow with my 93 Aero.... a utility trailer pulling building materials, and then occasionally a moto trailer with a single bike. I also visit the NC Mountains with some regularity, so there is that gravitational factor when descending mountain grades (and I use trans gearing as much as possible).

Heard some buzz about these a few years ago..... claimed to by cryogenically treated: StopTech 126.65034SL StopTech Sport Rotor Fits 92-97 Aerostar

$81 each side on eBay with "best offer". They declare they HIGH PERFORMANCE and racing influenced. I've got to see if there are any ceramic AKEBONO pads for the front of the Aero..... I've had good luck with them on my Volvo with Zimmerman cross drilled rotors .

 

300,000 miles?? Holy crap. No rotors? I live in Florida. Flat Florida! And have gone through 2 1/2 sets in 140k (1/2 set was a bad driver rotor sent by rock auto)
Can't wait to tell my wife we have Another 140k on this van

 

Well I made this purchase. A set of the Chinese STOP TECH rotors plus pads of my choice would have put me into this spending range anyway. As my time is more precious than my $$ at this point in life, I have purchased the recommended "dimpled" set for my 2WD. Using the SALE code for new pins, I am out the door at $211 shipped.

Do you recall if the bearing cones were installed, or did you move them/install new? I put all new bearings in the AERO about 50K miles ago, so I'll move them into these unless they are stubborn to drive out. Appreciate the suggestion.