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I'm using a Taurus fan (Dorman 620-118), man does it move air! Pulls 40amps and has not a single problem cooling my 400 in Arizona 115* heat. I use my fitech fuel injection to turn it on at 205 and off at 200, doesn't take but a minute or two too cool it down. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-620-118
I'm using a markVIII fan (Dorman 620-118), man does it move air! Pulls 40amps and has not a single problem cooling my 400 in Arizona 115* heat. I use my fitech fuel injection to turn it on at 205 and off at 200, doesn't take but a minute or two too cool it down.
It would be great if the problem was as simple as the fans, but according to Champion's website, the fans that come with their kit are Spal fans & pull 1320 cfm each. Would you happen to know the specs on your Dorman fan? Found the Spal 3202 fans referenced above & they do pull 1870 cfm each, but they're also $202 each!!
Doing some research on the web and I find some say 3000 and some say 4000+ and even 6000cfm from the Taurus fan. Most say it pulls somewhere in the 4000cfm range tho, so that's what I would go with. All I really know from experience is when off roading in Az 115* heat, a lot of the guys have too stop and let there Broncos cool off. All of them run mechanical fans. I have never had any of these issues. At idle or below, I would say 2000rpm, the Taurus fan is a better cooling option than a mechanical fan. Again, this is just my exp. https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar...rating.238206/
Are you confident your temp gauge is accurate? Have you compared with an IR gun? Have you opened the radiator cap while the engine is running to verify you for sure have adequate circulation through the cooling system? You didn't try a serpentine belt setup that is running the waterpump backwards? I think someone asked earlier what your timing actually was set at, and you posted you thought initial was about 14*. Irregardless of whatever curve is in the distributor that would not be retarded enough to cause the severe heating you're describing.
I think if it heats up while driving at 30+ mph, the fans aren't your issue. Assuming your not hauling a big load or pulling trailer, the truck by itself should not present enough load on the engine that air generated by road speed though the radiator should keep it cool enough. Do you have the rubber air dams in place between the grill and radiator to force the air through the radiator instead of letting it travel around/over/under it?
Having at least 3000 cfm air puller fans and a good alternator ( 100 amps minimum ) is a good set up to keep the temperature below 212* ( boiling point ). My two fans could draw up to 75 amps on start up. I swapped the anemic 60 amps OEM alternator for a 3rd Generation one wire 200 amps. I run multiple lights for off road too.
Radiator is mounted flush to the core support with the entire cooling surface exposed to airflow. I guess after checking the timing, I'll pull apart the cooling system & flush it all out & see what I get. Sure hope i haven't wiped a cam lobe, but if so, it'd be a good excuse to go back in with a hydraulic setup instead of the flat tappet it's currently got.
I'm not sure what vehicle your engine is is sitting in but mine is in a 79 Bronco, and the rubber dams I referred to are between the grill and core support. There is a large gap between the grill and the core support. There is also a large opening between the top of the core support and the hood. Without the rubber dams, road speed air can enter the grill and because of less resistance go over the top of the core support or out the bottom gap without being forced through the radiator making your electric fans do all the work. Also, IMO when not driving, your fans have the opportunity to pull or recirculate some under-hood hot air back through the radiator instead of fresh cooler air through the grill.
Anybody got a link to any timing tape for the 400 balancer? My timing marks are really hard to read & searches for timing tape for a 400 ford come up with nada.
I'm going to ask this: Are you certain the head gaskets are installed correctly (not backwards) ? The situation you describe sounds exactly how a Cleveland will act if one or both gaskets are backwards. I bought a 77 F100 years ago that had a 400 in it and it did just as yours. Drive it a few miles, the temps seem normal, then suddenly they shoot up and you get a burp out of the radiator as soon as the coolant in the block flashes to steam. With any other engine, the coolant will shortcut up to the intake. not so with the Cleveland, it gets trapped in the block till it flashes to steam, then it backfires through the waterpump to the radiator. That 400 had one gasket backwards when I tore it down.
I think someone mentioned checking to see if tabs on the gaskets were sticking out on the front side of the motor? I remember looking & I thought they were located where they were supposed to be, but that was a while ago. Anyone got a pic of an incorrect installation?
I think someone mentioned checking to see if tabs on the gaskets were sticking out on the front side of the motor? I remember looking & I thought they were located where they were supposed to be, but that was a while ago. Anyone got a pic of an incorrect installation?
The tabs should be covering the front corners of the block deck that protrudes out in front of the heads
I think someone mentioned checking to see if tabs on the gaskets were sticking out on the front side of the motor? I remember looking & I thought they were located where they were supposed to be, but that was a while ago. Anyone got a pic of an incorrect installation?
The tabs you are looking for are the ones next to that Motorcraft tag in the picture.
