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I'm having the hardest time as of late getting my '55 started.
It seems to run fine once started, but startup itself takes forever.
It's a 223 6 with a 6-volt positive ground Optima red-top battery. The battery tested out great at Pep Boys.
I rebuilt the carb and the generator last year.
The fuel pump, fuel lines, fuel filter, fuel tank, solenoid, coil, regulator, cap, rotor, and plugs are all new.
The battery cables are new 00 lines, and all the ground straps are new and tight on clean shiny metal.
Timing was set with a light, and the carb was adjusted to spec - again - it runs well once running.
I have gas coming from the accelerator pump when I pull the throttle and spark indicated by a spark tester.
Is it possible my spark is weak?
Or maybe the starter is weak? I never did rebuild that....
I also never did replace my starter button and ignition switch....
The engine showed strong vacuum when running, but I don't think I ever checked compression.
And I haven't adjusted the valves.
I'm going to dive-in Saturday, but I'd love some advice on where to start.
Bill, does it start hard after it's been sitting for a week or more? Or does it start hard after you've driven it, got it up to operating temp, then turn it off and try to start soon after? I don't think the starter button or ignition would need replaced. The starter might be the weak link. For now I'd park it on a hill whenever possible!
Cool, I didn't know LMC put that up. Thanks for the heads up.
Saw your truck on there too. Looking great. I have no idea your truck was from your Grandfather.
Makes it even better.
It's hard to start after sitting for a while, so it's definitely not a "hot start" issue.
I have a similar engine. After mine sits awhile, the gas disappears from the carburetor. I have the glass bowl type, so I can see it happening. As a result, it takes a little cranking to re-fill the bowl. Is this maybe what you are experiencing? Glass bowls often leak, but mine doesn't appear to. I'm thinking that my problem is some type of internal leak. I rebuilt my carb over the winter and am anxious to see if my "leak" went away. My truck isn't running right now because of a wiring issue (long story), but I hope to be back on the road soon. Good luck.
I have a similar engine. After mine sits awhile, the gas disappears from the carburetor. I have the glass bowl type, so I can see it happening. As a result, it takes a little cranking to re-fill the bowl. Is this maybe what you are experiencing? Glass bowls often leak, but mine doesn't appear to. I'm thinking that my problem is some type of internal leak. I rebuilt my carb over the winter and am anxious to see if my "leak" went away. My truck isn't running right now because of a wiring issue (long story), but I hope to be back on the road soon. Good luck.
Jim
Thanks Jim .
I could be wrong, but doesn't a steady stream from the accelerator pump prove there's fuel in the bowl ?
Good luck getting your wiring sorted; that can be frustrating .
It proves there is fuel in the chamber for the accel pump. Before digging in too deep, splash some gas into the carb and see if it fires right away. If it does, you probably need a way to prime the carb with fuel after it has sat for enough time to dry out the carb. I have an old car that has an outboard motor squeeze bulb that allows me to pump the fuel into the carbs before I go to start it. You could also use an electric fuel pump with a push button in the cab to prime the system
It proves there is fuel in the chamber for the accel pump. Before digging in too deep, splash some gas into the carb and see if it fires right away. If it does, you probably need a way to prime the carb with fuel after it has sat for enough time to dry out the carb. I have an old car that has an outboard motor squeeze bulb that allows me to pump the fuel into the carbs before I go to start it. You could also use an electric fuel pump with a push button in the cab to prime the system
Really appreciate that suggestion, but I had tried that.
Tried filling the bowl through the vent, AND right down the mouth of the carb.
Nothing...
Given everything else you've covered, it does sound like you might be right about weak spark.
When you put in the new cap., is it possible that it might be an offshore part?
Mine's a 12 volt 56, but mine was hard to start too until I replaced the starter relay and then all was good again.
I think the cap was almost certainly an offshore part.
The starter solenoid is new. (But also likely overseas junk, so not above suspicion.)
This is the challenge, I'm having a hard time honing in on where the problem is coming from.
I think on Saturday I'm going to start by ensuring I have gas coming up to the carb when the starter is going, and then I'm going to go back to voltage drop tests.
Pull a plug out , connect the lead back on and crank it over and look at the spark .
See if it's weak or not .
Were the plugs correctly gapped before fitting them ?
Reason I ask is most people just put them in assuming they are gapped correctly , but they should be checked before installing them .
Also check to see if plugs are wet , it may be flooding !!
Just to make sure I had everything, I went to NAPA and got a condenser, points, cap, rotor, and coil.
Turns out the NEW coil I put in last year was junk.
I'm glad I swapped in new points and condenser first, but it's the coil that did it.
Touch the starter, and it fires right up.
Amazing, I can't believe I've been living with this for so long...
Glad to see you were able to resolve the issue. You would think with a weak coil that the engine would have acted up while running but again, good for you! Steve
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