1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis Econolines. E150, E250, E350, E450 and E550

Rear A/C Removal, Help looping coolant lines

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Old 04-21-2018, 08:15 PM
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Rear A/C Removal, Help looping coolant lines

So I saw a posting on removing the rear A/C... a lot of debate over should I/shouldn't I and how to do it properly,
definitely not here for that as it's already partially out and I plan on replacing it after I finish the rest of this van.

So I removed the rear A/C unit which I am told has two coolant lines and a refrigerant line... I see three coolant lines
and a refrigerant line... what do I do with all the coolant lines, do I tie them all together, cap off one, etc?


Here's what the under view looked like:


rear a/c lines





Here's what I've seen from other forums:
 

Last edited by udfxrookie; 04-21-2018 at 08:48 PM. Reason: more pics
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Old 04-21-2018, 09:24 PM
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So after a bit more reading I feel kinda embarrassed, it appears I have 2 cooling lines and 2 heating lines

Does this mean loop the heating, loop the cooling... and there is no refrigerant line to close off?
 
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Old 04-22-2018, 04:30 AM
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When posting info request please state your year, chassis (e150, E250 etc) & engine--that info can affect an answer occasionally

I just physically removed (never to be reinstalled) the rear A/C evaporator and the shorter lines connecting it to the underbody lines running from the front A/C system. Heating components will remain in place for now but there are thoughts of relocating all that in a small overhead space on my raised roof E350 extended body van.

Since you've already removed the rear unit and keeping in mind the time it'll be before you've reinstalled the rear A/C system you need only loop the coolant lines. That can be accomplished at the rear but I'd consider capping those lines off closer to the engine which would give you time to carefully and thoroughly inspect all lines leading to the rear heating/cooling unit. Those are highly prone to developing leaks which as you can imagine can lead to a lot of problems especially if the coolant lines fail, A/C just a simply inconvenience.

Also in your case doing something with the front part of the A/C system would be important depending on how long that system will not have be pressurized. Left open too long will allow moisture inside the now-connected components which might prove nearly impossible to properly evacuate and recharge the A/C system at a later date.

Give me an idea of your time line to completion of whatever modifications you're performing---I might have a few useful ideas how to deal with all this.
 
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Old 04-22-2018, 07:18 AM
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With all the news I'm hearing.... hopefully it's only going to be plugged today.
First: 1998 Ford E-150 4.6L is my van =)
I had someone come install a new compressor yesterday and when charging thats when we noticed the rear leaking like a monster.
I plan on taking the van on the road for 2 hours to go to the junk yard, get tons of parts... .the auto store and then I will re-connect everything
after I fix it up and have it re-charged..... so lord willingly thats enough....

I was told loop the coolant that went to the heater core... and plug/cap the cool refrigerant lines as one is high pressure and the other is low,
is that about right? To get me through the day =)
 
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Old 04-22-2018, 12:19 PM
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For coolant lines you have to loop them so that the coolant continues to circulate. Make sure you do an nice U shape with rubber hose to avoid kinking the line.
If you are never going to use the heat on back of van anymore, you can cut all the extra amount of lines under body and do the loop
at the point where the dog house is located. You can accomplish this with rubber hose and clamps.

For AC lines,assuming that you want the AC to work at the front you have to loop the as well but you have to use tubing and clamps(connectors ) for automotive AC purposes . Rubber hoses and clamps will not work there.
 
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Old 04-22-2018, 12:51 PM
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If your time frame is only a few days and/or you need to drive this van loop the coolant lines anywhere you have solid hoses. Since you already have the rear unit removed looping them towards the back will be fine.

Unless you can secure Dorman or similar A/C line splices or repair fittings that work on the aluminum tubing leaving that system open the few days isn't the end of the world. If using the Dorman OD line terminating kits they might deform the OEM tube ends making reconnecting them with factory fittings difficult or prone to leaking sometime later. Example here:
Dorman A/C Block Off Plug Dorman A/C Block Off Plug
.

As a side not ifall the A/C components are original to the van you may want to consider installing a new receiver/dryer, at least that's the way I'd go. The downside there is that part might be a bit pricy as it is quite different from the front-only A/C parts. Discuss this with your A/C guy.

Having seen a few of the factory lines fail the all-time best repair is replacing the hard lines with hydraulic hose with the appropriate fittings to connect them at both ends to your existing system. Typically a Parker Store near you can advise how much and what's involved with them making the lines for you.

Another very important step is completely securing any new lines so chafing and long-term vibrations damage them.
After thought---those fittings shown in your photo showing a looped coolant line are also Dorman (or similar brand) that allow your standard hose to be used on tubes that have the "quick disconnect" style ends. Those tubes will also accept the appropriate diameter hose used with single-ear or worm-drive clamps.

I've also added you to my Contacts List so you're welcome to PM me there anytime---glad to help if I can.
Anyway hope this helps a bit more.
 
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