292 v8 quit running

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Old 04-20-2018, 03:48 PM
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Exclamation 292 v8 quit running

I have a 1963 f100 with a 292 v8. It ran good when i parked it, but the next day it wouldn't start, unless you poured some gas down the carb. I noticed the fuel pump weep hole was leaking, so i rebuilt the carburetor and installed a new fuel pump. I also changed the oil because there was gas in it. However when you turn it over it will only sputter if the carb is wide open, and the choke doesn't seem to help it start any. I tried pouring gas, and starting fluid, but it still sputters. I then replaced the points and condenser, and coil. It had spark and it still does now. I checked the timing and its spot on. I also noticed every so often the spark plugs will arc against the headers. Any ideas what could be wrong?
 
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Old 04-22-2018, 02:34 PM
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If your wires are arcing, they're definetly bad. Might as well change them plus a cap and rotor. I had fueling issues last year, and it turns out the lobe for the fuel pump was worn out and wasn't pushing the arm. So I ended up putting an electric pump on. You need to pull line off at the carb and see if your pumping any gas. Should fill a 16ounce pop bottle in about 30 seconds of cranking. If you get that, then you've got a float problem and not filling the bowl.
 
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Old 07-22-2018, 07:52 PM
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Curious if you ever figured out what was wrong. I rebuilt the 292 on my f-250 not too long ago. It ran great for a week or so and then started doing what you were talking about. Run then die right away. No it will not run at all. Thought I had another carb issue and so I took it off and just fuel injected it, but it is still doing the same thing.
 
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Old 07-24-2018, 03:56 PM
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Unfortunately, you have complicated things by swapping parts before figuring out the problem. If it is doing the exact same thing, then verify that your ignition is hot with the key in the ON position. If it is not, find out why. What could be happening is that it is not hot in the ON position. When you start it, the ignition circuit from the switch is bypassed and sends a full 12 volts to the coil so it will start in the START position but when you release the key and it goes back to the ON position, it stops.

Compression, ignition at the right time, and fuel, and it will run. You just have to dig in and figure out what's going on.
 
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Old 07-24-2018, 07:28 PM
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I have double checked the power to the coil already. I even hot wired the coil to the battery just in case it was something intermittent. Today I put a new coil on just in case I was getting a weak spark, but still no start. Very frustrating.
 
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Old 07-24-2018, 10:18 PM
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It will be real easy if you be systematic about it. Don't put on a new coil just in case the spark is weak. You could have just replaced a good coil with a bad one.

Observe the spark and verify that it is or is not weak. Remove a plug wire, hold the end next to the exhaust manifold (or use a spark testing tool), crank it over and look for a spark and take note of the color. Orange or red = bad violet blue = good. Check timing with a timing light. Check compression with a compression gauge. Make sure the fuel injection is providing fuel correctly. If all of those are good, it will start.

The battery could be bad. I've had batteries provide enough juice to turn the starter but with the voltage drop while cranking, there was not enough left for ignition.
 
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Old 07-31-2018, 04:03 PM
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I'd start by putting a small pressure gauge on the fuel line by the carb to confirm fuel delivery.
 
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Old 08-01-2018, 06:01 AM
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It ended up being the condenser in the distributor that was bad. Brand new distributor last year and it’s hardly been run, but it went bad already. Cheap parts they make these days. When I part a standard spark tester on the truck it looked like a constant spark. But when I put an adjustable gap tester on it it show the the spark was not consistent. That made it seem like a fuel issue since it would fire for a second and then die right away.
 
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