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Something else to take a look at is you ACT - Air Charge Tempurature Sensor.
2 wire sensor on the drivers side of the intake. Yellow/Red - Black/White wires...
Pull it out, check the tip, measure the resestance of the sensor, blow on it to see if the resistance changes.
My truck only has one tank. I thought it was fuel pump also, but all this no CEL stuff has me worried.
You won't get any codes or cel for a bad fuel pump. Do you hear a popping sound like a loud bang coming from the air box under the hood when under load?
You won't get any codes or cel for a bad fuel pump. Do you hear a popping sound like a loud bang coming from the air box under the hood when under load?
Yes, actually. It sounds kinda like its firing out the intake, if it were out of time? Similar to that.
Where was this truck built ?
Build Location?
Build Date?
From what I can find, looks like Norfolk, VA
Build date says 4/90 on the tag in the door jam.
Originally Posted by vjsimone
Did you open the computer up?
If you do, take some photographs.....
I opened it to check real quick yesterday if anything was burnt. Didn't look bad. Going to pull it out again today to get the part number off the tag, that I forgot to get. I'll take some pictures of the inside of as well.
Originally Posted by vjsimone
Check the shaft in your dizzy for side-play. Look at the inside of your dizzy cap to see if the rotor is making contact with cap.
I will check it ASAP.
Originally Posted by vjsimone
Something else to take a look at is you ACT - Air Charge Tempurature Sensor.
2 wire sensor on the drivers side of the intake. Yellow/Red - Black/White wires...
Pull it out, check the tip, measure the resestance of the sensor, blow on it to see if the resistance changes.
Yes. Anything past quarter throttle, it just falls off and I hear it popping. And if I let off, or pedal it just slightly it comes right back up.
and fuel pressure was dropping as rpms increased right? Sounds to me like a bad fuel pump. Some days it would work flawlessly then some it wouldn't. Took it into the shop they confirmed my suspicions and replaced it and never had an issue again
and fuel pressure was dropping as rpms increased right? Sounds to me like a bad fuel pump. Some days it would work flawlessly then some it wouldn't. Took it into the shop they confirmed my suspicions and replaced it and never had an issue again
I may just the bite the bullet and throw a pump in it to be sure. I just hate throwing parts at it.
Did you open the computer up?
If you do, take some photographs.....
I got the computer opened it, and got the numbers off of it.
Here's the proof of suspected JY/salvage PCM.
Here is the number for the PCM thats in it. I did call Ford parts, and asked about what the number should be, and he had a hard time finding anything, but he finally came up with what he called "the final engineering number" which is FTOF-12A650-TAMR. Does that mean this is the wrong PCM?
I took this picture, because it says 9K19 on the label in the picture above, but this one says 9K20?
Here is the picture of inside.
Originally Posted by vjsimone
Check the shaft in your dizzy for side-play.
Look at the inside of your dizzy cap to see if the rotor is making contact with cap.
Those were both good.
Originally Posted by vjsimone
Something else to take a look at is you ACT - Air Charge Tempurature Sensor.
2 wire sensor on the drivers side of the intake. Yellow/Red - Black/White wires...
Pull it out, check the tip, measure the resestance of the sensor, blow on it to see if the resistance changes.
It is brand new.
Originally Posted by vjsimone
Pin 2 is ground, so connecting the STI to pin 2 grounds the STI 5v to 0v and this initiates the Self-Test sequence.
I did check this again. I have 5V on the STI, if I use the battery as a ground. I don't know if pin 2 is straight to ground, but I used continuity to quickly check it, and it isn't grounded.
I did check this again. I have 5V on the STI, if I use the battery as a ground. I don't know if pin 2 is straight to ground, but I used continuity to quickly check it, and it isn't grounded.
Pin 2 should be connected to ground.
Check to see that it is a Black/White Stripe wire.
You can connect the STI to any ground (batt ground is convenient)
Use a test light rated for 12v automotive to read pulses/codes on pin 4.
for clarification; pin 2/SIG-RTN pin 4/Self-Test OUT
I got the computer opened it, and got the codes off of it.
Here's the proof of suspected JY/salvage PCM.
Here is the number for the PCM thats in it. I did call Ford parts, and asked about what the number should be, and he had a hard time finding anything, but he finally came up with what he called "the final engineering number" which is FTOF-12A650-TAMR. Does that mean this is the wrong PCM?
-T2A is for a 90, 5.0L, 5sp... So I would say you have a correct EECM. Now, whether it is working properly is another story..
Update; 85lebaront2, lookrd up the Catch Code and reports that the Catch Code; "L0U " is listed as F-150, 5.0L and is SD-Bank / Manual Transmission.
I believe this is further confirmation that you have the correct EECM installed.
Last edited by vjsimone; Apr 12, 2018 at 01:14 PM.
Reason: Adding/updating text
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