I'm looking for info on installing the sending units for these two gauges in my 6.0. I have done these in my 2 previous 7.3's, but this motor is a different animal that seems to take up more room under the hood than a 7.3. I want to do a pre-turbo pyro. If any of you have done this install I would appreciate some knowledge.

 

I drilled and tapped the drivers-side exhaust manifold just past the rear cylinder port for my pyrometer. I drilled from beneath the truck, almost straight up from the bottom of the manifold. My advice is to:
1. Buy the pyrometer.
2. Find out what size pipe thread fitting comes with it.
3. Go to Home Depot and buy a tap, and
4. Read on the tap what size drill to use, and buy one of those too.
5. Use a center punch to mark where you want to drill.
Take a LOT of time to decide where to drill. Remember that the probe has to be inserted into the manifold and not hit anything. Think about the placement and the angle of the hole you want to drill. You only get one chance at this.
6. First, use a small drill bit of about ¼ the size of the finished hole size. Next use a one about half-way up to the finished hole size from the first hole. Finish drilling very straightly with the last size.
7. Use oil on the tap and take your time tapping the hole.
8. Use a magnet such as a pick-up tool to get the shavings inside the manifold. After you have gotten all of the shavings possible, stick the magnet back in the hole and gently hit the manifold with a small hammer all around the hole to get the last of the metal shavings to jump onto the magnet.

Drilling and tapping cast iron is not difficult, but TAKE YOUR TIME.

For the boost gauge, I drilled and tapped a metal tube beneath the air filter, between the intercooler and the intake manifold. There is a more handy place to tap into this system though... the absolute manifold pressure sensor is mounted on top of the air conditioner evaporator box on the passenger side of the engine compartment. It has a rubber hose that connects to the intake manifold, also on the passenger side of the engine. This may be a better solution for connecting the boost gauge.

 

I just posted a question on pre vs post thermocouple installation. I am thinking pre but fear the metal shavings.

I noticed that you both are running differnt power mods. toomuchboost your running a quadzill and debug your running a TorqueForce.

I looked at both of these but is seems like most people are going with the Edge Juice. Can you guys give me your take on your modules. I am about to order one to install over thanksgiving.

X-mas present to self
thanks,
jeff...

 

i have my etg guage after the turbo, the same place i had it on my 7.3, and it seems to be working well. you will get a lower temp reading after the turbo. i was told by several tech's to be sure the temp stays under 1050 when the probe is after the turbo. before turbo probes will run as high as 1400.

does your power mods make your tranny shift eratic? i have a volumizer and it hits the rev limiter before it shifts. i was curious if the other power mods are doing the same?

 

I put mine in the same place as debug.

 

va_redneck, if I had it to do over again I'd research and possibly go with a Juice/Attitude package. I don't have any complaints with my TorqueForce but it's a very simple device. The Attitude seems to have a little more "smarts" about it, but I have not read any posts from owners with this package. I'd probably be in a short holding pattern right now waiting to hear how it works.

Whatever you do, invest in a pyrometer before installing a power module. I seriously recommend the thermocouple be installed pre-turbo. You can kill the turbo and burn valves with these modules (the Juice/Attitude package is supposed to limit power increases if EGT hits a user-specified high limit).

Also, the power module needs to be removed before going to a dealer for service. Most will probably not give you any flak but all it takes in one entry in the Ford database and your warranty is done for.

 

As far as fear of shavings, I have not read of anybody having problems resulting from them.

Here’s my two cents on the drilling operation. Some people like to run the engine while drilling, but I don’t. With the engine running there is a positive flow of gas out of the hole you are drilling so a lot of shavings will blow out while you work. But, there is a lot more gas flow going past the hole that will carry some of the shavings away from your work area. If the engine isn’t running the shavings will all stay right there and you can eventually get them all out with a small magnet. Since I did my (slow speed) drilling straight up from the bottom, gravity probably provided me with as much advantage as a flow of gas out of the hole.

After I was done I started the cold engine and quickly ran the RPM’s up. My theory was to get the stuff by the turbo before it spooled up and also to blow anything that I might have missed across a cold turbo. Probably wasn’t worth the effort but I thought I was doing something smart.

I have read of fears of the thermocouple breaking off. The only way this should occur is by erosion eating through it, or if it cracks from heating cycles. If my pyrometer ever goes off-scale high or low, I will immediately shut down the engine and pull the thermocouple out. I expect it will fail before it totally breaks off.

 

Without any other mods I'm putting 362HP to the ground and stock 6.0's are putting 260 to the ground through the auto. This truck is easily doing 90 if not 93-94 in the quarter. It will stay neck and nek with supercharged Harley truck until it hits the speed limiter. I have installed Quadzilla, Juice and Western Diesel and I prefer Quad because it simply make more power. You can buy the other modules cheaper, but I prefer the extra power.

I have a friend that is running 35's on a 6.0 auto and both the Quad and Western Diesel in high power mode consistently hit the rev limiter going in to 3rd. The tranny simply will not learn with high power and 35's. My truck takes about 40 miles to re-learn when I change modes to shift quickly under high power.

 

I too have heard fears of a thermocouple breaking off. One perf. shop I spoke with said the pre turbo temps on the 6.0 are so high he would not expect it to last to long and it would break off and go throught the turbo.

I think I will go post turbo. I plan to use the Juice with attitude monitor. It is set up for post turbo as per the install instructions.

 

Been running mine pre turbo since I bought it. The thermo that I bought was pretty thick threw the whole tip. I don't see how it could break off. I think it would stop working first. Then you would know to change it before it even broke.And there is a big difference in temps from pre to post.

 

TMB,

What dyno are you using and is your data corrected rear wheel HP?
What TQ were you showing, and where do the two cross?
What DA (density altitude) are you at?
What AD (air density) was the test run at?
This will help myself up here at 6k altitude.

 

Thanks all for the feedback. I was thinking along the same lines as debug and I opted for the juice for the power module. I’ll ad the attitude later.

I went to motorhaven.com for the pod pillar. Why. Because I like the ISSPRRO gauges. They make two EGT gauges that are color coded for pre and post temp ranges. I already have a tranny gauge and the only other gauge that I need is a boost so on the three pod pillar I decided to pick up both .

Now remember shy my wife left…

I’ll be able to give everyone feedback on the temp delta pre and post when I am done. This is why I like this forum. Everyone here is incorrigible and we all have one dream in common. The badst diesel on the road.

Options going in over thanksgiving
4” SS exhaust turbo back including down pipe
Edge Juice
AIRAID intake system
3 Pod Pillar
ISSPRO Pre and Post EGT Gauges
ISSPRO Boost gauges

 

It is a Mustang Dyno and they couldn't read torque in diesel mode that day, just gassers. It does tell me Quadzilla is on the money because it is a 115hp / 260tq module in high and it added 102 to the ground. I'm going to add a cat-back exhaust next then I will go back and get torque readings as well

I'm on my 3rd PSD and the only way I will have my pyro is pre-turbo. It is so easy to tap the soft metal on the manifold and shaving aren't much off an issue if you drill vertically from the bottom.

 

TMB

When yo do go back and read TQ, let us know.

Thanks

 

va_redneck, I can't wait to hear some side-by-side data on pre/post-turbo pyrometer installations. Please be sure to get back with us!