Just had the fuel pressure checked and Little Red is 22 psi at idle. I believe it is supposed to be around 60 psi so, while the bed is off to replace the fuel tank filler hose (it's split in 2 places) I'm gonna go ahead and replace the fuel pump and filter too. Sure hope this fixes the problem.

 

Little Red is in the shop now. 3 frikkin hours to get the rusted bolts unstuck to take the ladder rack off plus getting the tool box empty and removed. Still waiting on UPS to deliver the fuel filler hose so soon as that arrives I'm walking it up to the shop. The truck looked so different without the work stuff on the bed. Might use some stainless bolts when I put the ladder rack back on.

 

Out of the shop now and Little Red was still sputtering a little but not as much. Took it out on the highway for a bit and ran around town. The sputtering had stopped by the time I got it home so hopefully this cures the problem. I think I'm gonna replace the ignition just to be on the safe side.

 

Put the ladder rack and tool box back on. Ran around a bit yesterday and Little Red once again runs like brand new. Yayyy! Guess the fuel pump was just wore out. Now to think about the other changes I want to do on it. Gotta replace the blend door actuator so I have heat in the truck and the stock stereo is dead. I have an old Dual 200 watt stereo that was in my big truck some years back just sitting around so I think I'll put that one in place. I do want to modify the 60/40 seats to buckets and build a center console but that is pretty far in the future. Oh, and I need to replace that worm gear in the odometer so I can figure out how many miles I'm driving between oil changes. Right now I just change the oil in Little Red the same time I change it in the Jeep.

 

Well crap... yesterday when I took the truck up to the store the fuel gauge is pegged past full. I'm guessing there is some wiring issues with the new fuel pump/sending unit. I'll run it by the shop today to see if maybe something has come loose. Hate to have to take the ladder rack and tool box back off so they can take the bed off again. What a pain... I did get a new air filter and pcv valve so that's a positive step. Still thinking about what ignition coil to get. Truck is running great so maybe I'll put that off for a bit.

 

Corroded connection. Went up to the shop and told them what it was doing. The wrench guy took my keys and about 20 minutes later he gave them back said all done. One of the connections was crapped up and we was able to get to it, clean it and put it back together without taking anything off.. yayyy. All good now. So now it's on to the next project. Met a fella that runs a junk yard while I was there and he said he has the ABS module I need. Hopefully I can pick it up cheap. Been seeing them for $50 and up online. Probably have to get the airbag control module new. Here is the reason I'm having some issues but so far Little Red is hanging in there. I can't believe it is still running like brand new. On a positive note when I got it towed out of there and to the shop every place that could hold water was drained and cleaned. Diff, transfer case, transmission, crank case, brake fluid reservoir, radiator. The only place that didn't get filled was the windshield wiper fluid reservoir. This is one tough little truck.

 

Still has some sputtering but not nearly as bad with the old fuel pump. It will sputter and miss and then suddenly run fine for a while.. then it goes back to sputtering and missing and then back to running good again. No check engine lights. I'm beginning to think the injectors are crapped up. It ran great until it sat for 5 months while the wife and I went overseas. When we came back is when this started. Changed out the fuel filter and it was nasty. So new fuel filter, new fuel pump and the fuel filler hose was split so new fuel filler hose to the tank. Not really wanting to take the intake off but it is looking more and more like the injectors either need a good cleaning or replacing. Gonna run another couple of bottles of injector cleaner thru it first but not holding my breath that this will fix it.

 

Trying to resurrect a flooded vehicle is usually fraught with problems. Did you have the fuel tank dropped & cleaned out when replacing the fuel pump?
Also replace the in cabin fuel pump inertia switch, as its internal contacts are likely corrupt with rust & corrosion, so that can cause under load voltage drop to the pump & cause it to act out & maybe run hot & self destruct. Same if the new pump pre-filter sock is being clogged with in-tank debris if the tank wasn't cleaned before the new pump was installed.

 

Seems like that fuel pump inertia switch is either on or off but since it was under water I'm gonna go ahead and replace that. Maybe while I'm working on that part of the truck I can go ahead and replace the air bag module too. I believe that is under the kick panel in that same general area. Gonna try a couple of cans of that Berryman B12 fuel system/injector cleaner to see if that helps before ripping into the intake to get to the injectors. Not sure if the tank was dropped and cleaned when it initially went into the shop. It was there for a week and the mechanic said he drained and cleaned out everything that could possibly hold water including the diff, transfer case, transmission, crankcase.. etc. Said the only thing that didn't fill up with water was the windshield washer reservoir. Heck, even the headlights were full of water. They drained out and the bulbs still work.. crazy stuff.

 

The inertia switch isn't sealed,, so its contacts likely have silt, rust &/or corrosion, so best to get any voltage dropping deposits out of the fuel pump circuit & that includes All relays, especially the fuel pump & computer power relays & any circuit breakers, as they're not sealed.
Couldn't tell from the photo water level, but was the computer under water too??? If so, replace it, or at least open it up & clean it out with a good plastic safe electrical cleaner like CRC MAF spray cleaner, or maybe CRC QD. Pay close attention to the computer pins/sockets & its electrical connector pins/sockets. If you have to tidy up the computer circuit board, do it with a tooth brush & the spray cleaner.

 

The water got to the bottom of the stereo. Didn't get inside the gauge cluster so that's a plus. I have a new blend door actuator for the heater and controls to install and somewhere I have a new stereo. Had all the wheel bearings cleaned out and repacked. Replaced all the fuses. Gonna check the vacuum lines sometime today or tomorrow. I do want to replace the ignition and still deciding on what ignition coil to use. Mechanic said just go with OEM but I'm looking at others.

 

^^^^ This is the reality of it. General rule of thumb is, if it's under water more than 20 seconds it's most likely totaled, insurance pays off, the flood vehicle title is branded, it goes to auction and is either parted out or some unlucky guy drives an unreliable vehicle that got water in every electrical connection and now, at random, they fail. Perfect example being Katrina vehicles, plus, this is what happened to Big Brown Hummer when it got submerged. Water and silt, if connections somehow do not corrode and cause problems then the tracks from the debris that penetrated areas of components that would never see water now have the potential to be slightly conductive, and this can cause weird electrical problems.

 

I'm sure the full size Ford pickup was totaled and that other vehicle was a VW Golf. Never saw it again. I'll just keep futzin with Little Red and fix what ever goes wrong. I bought it brand new and I'm sure I can't get much for it if I tried to sell it. This sputtering just started happening so I'll work thru it and eventually hit on the right fix. If the Barryman B12 doesn't help then I'll just go to the next step of dropping the tank and giving it a good cleaning. Wish I could have been there when it got towed to the shop to watch the work progress but I have to hope the mechanic was thorough in his work. The flood was early 2016 and the sputtering just started a month ago.

 

That's how Big Brown Hummer lived. Big Brown Hummer kept kicking up a steady stream of random, annoying problems, and the ultimate solution was......unload and replace.

 

Added the Barryman B12 today and filled the tank the rest of the way up with premium. Seems to run a little better but still sputtering some. Stopped by the shop and they are gonna change out the fuel filter again. Fella said there was a lot of black debris in the old filter so this can only help. Apparently when Little Red got towed out of the water back in 2016 and to the shop (a different shop in a different town) the wrench guy didn't clean out the tank like he was supposed to do. The other wrench guy at this new shop seems to think the random sputtering is an electrical issue and suggested I remove all the fuses and relays in the engine compartment fuse block and clean the contacts. I did that already in the fuse block on the driver's side dash panel. Also maybe it needs a new computer chip but one "fix" at a time. I gotta locate the computer chip so I can get the number off of it for a replacement if needed. There is a salvage yard just down the road a bit were I might can find one with a matching number. Gonna go ahead and replace that inertia switch too.