6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

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Old 03-29-2018, 08:30 PM
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New purchase

Im looking to get a newer truck. I'm posting in this forum because one of the trucks I'm considering is a 6.0. I'm looking for one that has already been bulletproofed, and how to spot if it has done(or the best you can do because I'm sure a lot of people don't have reciepts?), What years of the 6.0 are best if it matters, and things to check.

I currently own a 1997 F250 with a 7.3. I was wanting to get back into a Dodge but people ask way too much for a truck that has an amazing motor and then crap attached to it. It seems pretty unanimous on forums that people say unless you're towing a lot, the Ford wins all day long. More comfortable, better options, looks better, etc. I sort of agree as I don't like dodges appearance wise as much after 2003. My favorite body style is the 94-2002 Dodge ram. I've owned 3, one of which had a 24 valve Cummins and it was the best truck I've ever owned. But they didn't come in a 4 door crew cab.

I test drove an 04 2500 long bed 4x4 6 speed this week and hated how it shifted. I'm not sure how the zf6 shifts but the ZF5 in my f250 shifts way better than that truck did. I am talking shift pattern and over all feel. I also felt that it was gutless compared to my 7.3 and ZF5. I have a 6" lift and 35's with 3.55's too.

I am not in love with my truck but I like it. I am trying to find a truck I will keep for a long time. I love the 7.3's but figured I would check out the 6.0's. my dad has a 99 dually 4x4 with a 7.3 and it still has less than 200k miles on it. Original everything basically. Great truck. I have just always been a Dodge fan. But I'm thinking I just wait till later on and get another 2nd gen as a toy.

Anywho, let me know what I should look for and ideas. I'm in Phoenix.

Currently, somebody is selling a 2004 F350 SRW 4X4 6 speed leather and heated seats, and with 72k miles and it says it has been fully bulletproofed. He is asking $15k for it which I feel is a solid deal. I may try to look at it this weekend if I have time.
There is also another 2004 longbed 4x4 auto with just under 100k miles I want to look at. It doesn't say whether or not it is bulletproofed, so I will need to figure out what to check for on that.
 
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Old 03-29-2018, 09:50 PM
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I could be wrong, but I think you’ll like the 6.0 with 6 speed manual. I’ve driven a few and enjoyed them, and owned a 6.4 F450 with a manual for several years.

As far as looking to see “bulletproofing” evidence, main indicator for headstuds is to look at the top of the block next to the valve cover. If it’s torque to yield bolts you’ll see a bolt head. If it’s a head stud you’ll see what looks like the end of the threaded part of a bolt with an allen key opening and a nut holding the head down.
 
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Old 03-29-2018, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by tfunk88
I could be wrong, but I think you’ll like the 6.0 with 6 speed manual. I’ve driven a few and enjoyed them, and owned a 6.4 F450 with a manual for several years.

As far as looking to see “bulletproofing” evidence, main indicator for headstuds is to look at the top of the block next to the valve cover. If it’s torque to yield bolts you’ll see a bolt head. If it’s a head stud you’ll see what looks like the end of the threaded part of a bolt with an allen key opening and a nut holding the head down.
At this point, I'm getting less picky. I started looking at dodges but people ask way too much for a 15-20 year old truck. 2nd gen dodges cost less than 30k new and some people are asking close to that now. Adjusted for inflation, a lot of people are asking what they sold for new or more basically.

I'd realistically take an auto or manual. I'm assuming the ZF6 will drive simarly to the ZF5 in my 97 F250, so I'd be ok with that. I love manual. I think the ZF6 I saw in a junkyard from a 2000 with a 7.3 had reverse in the top left, which makes it easy to avoid accidentally finding it when trying to hit 5th (reverse is top right next to 5th on the 04 Dodge I drove). But, I would take an auto. The occasions where my girlfriend might have to drive it would make it easier for her, although I did teach her to drive manual 4 years ago.

I have read some people say to get an 05 or 06 6.0 because they changed the gauge cluster and a few other things on the interior and are nicer looking. I imagine they can be changed out but not sure.
I just want to make sure there wasn't any huge difference in years for the 6.0. I know the 7.3 obs's had different power outputs ever year, the hpops were different between the 94.5/95-96/97, and a couple other miscellaneous things. I honestly like the way the 7.3 super duties look and the 2 different interiors I have seen of the 6.0's.
 
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Old 03-30-2018, 07:00 AM
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There aren’t big differences in power ratings, but there are engine changes. The high pressure oil pumps in the 03 to early 04 engines are more prone to failure vs the late 04 and on which pretty much don’t have issues. The earlier egr coolers are more robust, but I’d just delete it anyway so that doesn’t matter to me. There’s also an STC (“snap to connect”) fitting that should be updated to prevent high pressure oil leaks...I think 06 and up trucks came with the update. The gauge clusters are indeed nicer in the later trucks in my opinion.

I have an 05 Excursion, which only came with an automatic. Honestly for an automatic it is a great transmission, and that’s coming from a die-hard manual guy. I did have to replace the headgaskets and put studs in 70k miles ago, has been perfect since.
 
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Old 03-30-2018, 07:08 AM
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Oh, I forgot...the oil coolers on any year are usually an issue due to clogging, lots of opinions on what the cause is. I had to replace mine at 90k miles, my oil temps would get to 240 on the highway when coolant was 190! After replacement now my oil temps are never more than 10 degrees higher than coolant, even when hard on the throttle and lots of turbo boost. Most say the issue is related to the Ford Gold coolant and to avoid it, use an ELC. I actually use the Ford Gold coolant and have no issues, I just change it every 30k miles.
 
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Old 03-30-2018, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by tfunk88
There aren’t big differences in power ratings, but there are engine changes. The high pressure oil pumps in the 03 to early 04 engines are more prone to failure vs the late 04 and on which pretty much don’t have issues. The earlier egr coolers are more robust, but I’d just delete it anyway so that doesn’t matter to me. There’s also an STC (“snap to connect”) fitting that should be updated to prevent high pressure oil leaks...I think 06 and up trucks came with the update. The gauge clusters are indeed nicer in the later trucks in my opinion.

I have an 05 Excursion, which only came with an automatic. Honestly for an automatic it is a great transmission, and that’s coming from a die-hard manual guy. I did have to replace the headgaskets and put studs in 70k miles ago, has been perfect since.
Moat of the 6.0's I see for sale do mention some sort of work done relating to bulletproofing, of say it has been bulletproofed. But not everybody gets super detailed in their ads.. I know people sometimes travel from all over so I try to make my ads as detailed as possible so they can try and prescreen whether or not to show up.

How hard is it to do the bulletproofing items oneself? I'm definitely capable and handy. I have tore apart my 7.3 enough times to feel comfortable around it. I know the EGR l'sare prone to clog and the head gaskets blow because the head bolts suck(I think) so people buy head studs to remedy that, and I sometimes hear of other miscellaneous issues, but I frequently see those 2 as big issues.

Can you swap the later style gauges into the older style 6.0's?
 
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Old 03-30-2018, 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by tfunk88
Oh, I forgot...the oil coolers on any year are usually an issue due to clogging, lots of opinions on what the cause is. I had to replace mine at 90k miles, my oil temps would get to 240 on the highway when coolant was 190! After replacement now my oil temps are never more than 10 degrees higher than coolant, even when hard on the throttle and lots of turbo boost. Most say the issue is related to the Ford Gold coolant and to avoid it, use an ELC. I actually use the Ford Gold coolant and have no issues, I just change it every 30k miles.
I do not own any type of gauge that can read engine settings live so I don't think that I would know the wngien oil temp and coolant temps when driving it. I have some code reader I bought that does a lot of stuff but I don't know that it would work on a diesel #1 and if it did if the live readings it reads would be things like oil temps/coolant temps.
 
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Old 03-30-2018, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by B-Rad88
Moat of the 6.0's I see for sale do mention some sort of work done relating to bulletproofing, of say it has been bulletproofed. But not everybody gets super detailed in their ads.. I know people sometimes travel from all over so I try to make my ads as detailed as possible so they can try and prescreen whether or not to show up.

How hard is it to do the bulletproofing items oneself? I'm definitely capable and handy. I have tore apart my 7.3 enough times to feel comfortable around it. I know the EGR l'sare prone to clog and the head gaskets blow because the head bolts suck(I think) so people buy head studs to remedy that, and I sometimes hear of other miscellaneous issues, but I frequently see those 2 as big issues.

Can you swap the later style gauges into the older style 6.0's?
Yeah, “bulletproof” means different things to different people. With any listing I’d ask what all has been addressed.

If you’re comfortable working on engines you should be fine doing anything on the 6.0, some of the work is a bit cramped with the cab still on, though. To me the 6.0’s are the last Ford diesels I’d want to work on without having the ability to raise the cab.

I’m pretty sure the gauge clusters can be swapped, but I don’t know for sure.
 
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Old 03-30-2018, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by B-Rad88
I do not own any type of gauge that can read engine settings live so I don't think that I would know the wngien oil temp and coolant temps when driving it. I have some code reader I bought that does a lot of stuff but I don't know that it would work on a diesel #1 and if it did if the live readings it reads would be things like oil temps/coolant temps.
I’d definitely recommend something that can read temps. You can get an adapter and an app for your smartphone that will allow you to do this, and not too expensive. I want to say total cost of around $75 or less? I was lucky enough to have a tuner from my previous 6.4 that I could use as gauges.
 
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Old 03-30-2018, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by tfunk88


I’d definitely recommend something that can read temps. You can get an adapter and an app for your smartphone that will allow you to do this, and not too expensive. I want to say total cost of around $75 or less? I was lucky enough to have a tuner from my previous 6.4 that I could use as gauges.
Where should I find this adapter for smartphone?can I get it in store or Amazon?
 
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Old 03-30-2018, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by B-Rad88
Where should I find this adapter for smartphone?can I get it in store or Amazon?
Elm327

This is what I got to connect to torque pro app on Google play. I think they have issues with v2.0, but my v1.5 works fine. I use it for my daily driving monitoring on an old samsung tablet. I also have a clone Ford IDS for more indepth diag
 
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Old 03-30-2018, 09:58 AM
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I wonder if I could get that local? And does it read coolant and oil temps? I may try to look at a few trucks this weekend.
 
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Old 03-30-2018, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by B-Rad88
I wonder if I could get that local? And does it read coolant and oil temps? I may try to look at a few trucks this weekend.
probably not available locally. You can read just about anything with the exception of fuel pressure and get with torque pro app. What type of phone or tablets do you have?
Not sure what area of Phoenix you live in or looking at but I'll be down there Sunday near Sun City West if need assist
 
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Old 03-30-2018, 12:04 PM
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IMO a Bulletproofed 6.0 is as follows:

Heads removed, inspected & checked for cracks and straightness by reputable machine shop;
Heads installed with ARP studs & black diamond or factory ford gaskets;
New standpipes and dummy plugs;
Injectors new or rebuilt - at a minimum cleaned, inspected, and new orings;
One piece high pressure oil pump (HPOP) fitting installed;
Stainless Steel HPOP Screen;
Turbo inspected and cleaned;
New factory oil cooler or preferably remote oil cooler installed;
Cooling system thoroughly flushed and Cat rated ELC-1 coolant installed;
Cooling system filter installed preferably full flow;
Updated fuel pressure spring;
After market EGR cooler (Bulletproof or Sinister brand) or preferably EGR cooler delete;
Exhaust Cat removed and 4” turbo back exhaust installed preferably with exhaust temperature probe installed ahead of turbo exhaust inlet (ie. in exhaust manifold);
Digital or analog gauges installed to read at a minimum engine coolant, oil, and exhaust temperatures.

If ALL of the above is not done, the truck IMO is NOT BULLETPROOF!!


 
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Old 04-05-2018, 02:41 PM
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I haven't found a 6.0 I like so far unfortunately. I'm going to go look at an 05 F350 4x4 long bed auto today for $13400 but if it isn't bulletproofed I probably won't want to have anything to do with it. I went to go look at an 04 that was bulletproofed at a dealer and I told them I was coming. When I get there they said they sold it and the other truck I came to look at.
i found an 01 F350 short bed 4x4 7.3 that's in super good shape with less than 200k miles that I'm strongly considering now so we shall see.
 


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