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I have a 2007 Ford F-150 FX4 5.4. I have a constant P0352 and P0358 code. I replaced the COP with a cheap set (I’ll never do that again) There’s no exception to quality parts. I’ve replaced all of the spark plugs (it needed it and didn’t break any)and replaced all of the COP with a quality set this time. I’m still getting he same codes. I pulled the #2 COP and found continuity on the wire. I pulled the plug from the PCM and checked it again and there was no continuity. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
I have a constant P0352 and P0358 code. I replaced the COP with a cheap set (I’ll never do that again) There’s no exception to quality parts. I’ve replaced all of the spark plugs (it needed it and didn’t break any)and replaced all of the COP with a quality set this time. I’m still getting he same codes.
So the higher priced "quality parts" didn't fix the problem? Seems like you beat down your own argument on that subject.
When you removed and probed the connector from the ECM, can you tell us which pin numbers on which connector you probed for continuity?
So the higher priced "quality parts" didn't fix the problem? Seems like you beat down your own argument on that subject.
When you removed and probed the connector from the ECM, can you tell us which pin numbers on which connector you probed for continuity?
Well I should have added that the cheaper COP housing cracked and started to smoke. I didn’t go to the pin due to not know which pin was associated with the #2 COP. but checked continuity across the two wires across the plug at the COP. I checked it plugged into the PCM (shorted) and unplugged (open circuit)
Well I should have added that the cheaper COP housing cracked and started to smoke. I didn’t go to the pin due to not know which pin was associated with the #2 COP. but checked continuity across the two wires across the plug at the COP. I checked it plugged into the PCM (shorted) and unplugged (open circuit)
i should have also added that it blew the 20a fuse associated with the ignition coils
I pulled the #2 COP and found continuity on the wire. I pulled the plug from the PCM and checked it again and there was no continuity.
I’m gonna assume that the circuit was not powered (as in the ignition switch was “OFF” when you checked for continuity at the COP and that the COP connector was disconnected. And I’m gonna assume that the wire you checked for continuity at the COP was the “unique colored” wire and not the “common colored” wire. And I’m also gonna assume that you were checking continuity of the “unique colored” wire to a good ground.
So if you had continuity to ground with the PCM connected and no continuity to ground with the PCM disconnected, it sounds like the COP driver within the PCM is grounded and that’s probably why the fuse blew and smoked the COP as that circuit would be drawing power continually.
The P035X is indicating that the PCM hasn’t seen a signal indicating that the ignition driver module hasn’t seen a confirmation that’s the coil has been triggered, indicating an issue with the primary side of the ignition.
To confirm, either hook a noid light or your voltmeter connected to the “unique colored” wire with the COP connector connected and the engine running or cranking. You should see the voltage jumping between 12V and 0V if the coil driver is turning the circuit on and off.
In the computer are coil solid state drivers that are triggered in fire order to put a ground on each coil..
Codes 352 and 358 indicate open primary circuits. Another part of the computer looks at the current signature to check on proper operation.
If the fuse blue after the new coils were placed, there is a chance the computer drivers were damaged.
That means possible replacement and reprogramming of the computer and being sure those coils are removed.
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How to trouble shoot the computer:
Each driver has a resistance to ground that should measure in the 10,000 ohm range +/-. Not zero, or not very high or open circuit when measured with an Ohm meter when looking back to the computer and measured to ground.
Do a resistance check compare with a cylinder that had no code and assumed to be good.
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If you used those Yellow coils; big mistake, but any coil that developed a short will do it.
Never use cheap coils because they have no reliability history compared to OEM coils.
Good luck.
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