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2006 V-10 engine Knock

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Old 03-16-2018, 07:19 PM
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2006 V-10 engine Knock

Hello all,
My 06 F-250 developed a metallic knock this afternoon. Had it towed to a friends shop.
Gauge showed good oil pressure but factory gauge seems a bit sketchy to me.
Truck is on the lift and ready to be diagnosed. A few questions I have.
1) Is it at all possible to drop the pan while engine is in the truck?

2) Should I attempt to install a more accurate gauge and see a true oil pressure.
a. Where can I tap a gauge into the oil system?

3) Should I be looking under the valve covers or timing cover ? Possible cam follower or cam tensioner ?

There is no CEL or engine miss when engine is running. Just a knock that is noticeable at hot idle and increases in volume till about 2,000 RPM
 
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Old 03-17-2018, 07:43 AM
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I doubt the pan can be pulled with the engine in the truck. The factory oil gauge it pretty much an idiot light

There is an oil "sender" on the left side of the engine, "T" in a real oil gauge there.
 
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Old 03-18-2018, 06:40 PM
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Oil pressure is good 75psi at start up 60 warm idle. Removed valve covers, plenty of oil up top. No signs of problems with followers or timing chains.
Dropped the oil filter and opened it up. Babbit in the filter element. Time to pull the engine.
 
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Old 03-18-2018, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by shaffecv
Oil pressure is good 75psi at start up 60 warm idle. Removed valve covers, plenty of oil up top. No signs of problems with followers or timing chains.
Dropped the oil filter and opened it up. Babbit in the filter element. Time to pull the engine.
“babitt in the filter element”
?
 
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Old 03-18-2018, 08:03 PM
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Flakes of bearing material. My old school shop teacher back in the day called it babbit.
 
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Old 03-19-2018, 07:29 AM
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  #7  
Old 03-19-2018, 07:44 AM
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Thanks for the clarification.
Sorry for the misspelling.
Was beginning to think Babbitt was one of those Pennsylvania Dutch words that has absolutely no meaning in any other language.
 
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Old 03-19-2018, 08:56 AM
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I had a knock above 2000 rpm. 2000 Excursion 4x4.

I jacked up motor and removed oil pan. #1 rod bearing was beat up. All others were in great shape.

took me 1 day to jack up motor and remove oil pan.
1 day to put tri metal bearings in all rods.
1/2 day to put back togather.


I think the cause was a bad injector clip. That cylinder was dead.....intermittently due to the clip on injector being broken.
 
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Old 03-19-2018, 11:40 AM
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just toasted my motor for the same thing. pretty sure its just a rod bearing but i was over it, bought a new truck :P
 
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Old 03-19-2018, 01:36 PM
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Just cheated and took the sawzall to the rear section of the crossmember. Pan came down with a little wiggle. #2 cylinder rod bearing bad. Crank journal looks decent. Gonna check all others.
 
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Old 03-19-2018, 02:22 PM
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Remember, rod cap bolts are torque to yield.

one time use.

You will need 20 new rod bolts.
 
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Old 03-19-2018, 06:49 PM
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Thanks rock,
The spec I found is 32ft/lbs plus 105degrees
 
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Old 03-19-2018, 07:19 PM
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I used 30 to 32 ft lbs and 90 to 105 degrees, lubed with engine oil.

so you should be ok with numbers you quoted, the 90 to 105 degrees is not easy. Need a really good degree adapter for rods just above the cross member.
 
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Old 03-20-2018, 08:33 AM
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How many miles did you guys have. I'm at 120k, never burned a drop. Getting nervous.
 
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Old 03-20-2018, 08:55 AM
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Not sure when my knock developed. I bought it with 98,000 miles on OD. At 108,000 I put a supercharger on it and noticed a knock above 2000 rpm.

like I mentioned, I only had 1 bad bearing and I kinda think it had to do with a broken injector clip that was present when I purchased the vehicle. I cant figure any other reason for it because #1 sees better oil pressure than most and all others were pristine.
 


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