5.4 3 v issues
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Kissimmee,Fla
5.4 3 v issues
I'm a diesel guy out of the 6.0 side,with that said I'm not familiar with the mod motor. Never worked on one but I'm not a novice to twisting wrenches by any means. My brother has this 05 F250,started out missing and running ruff. It came up with P0171,P0174 codes and a misfire on number 8.I changed the fuel filter and it ran better if you didn't nail it. I ordered a fuel pressure sensor and changed it out and its got a lean code on bank number 1. Could it be the intake gasket? I hear a single sucking type sound somewhere on the passenger side. Truck has 147 thou on it,. thanks in advance .....Bill
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 3,087
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From: Central Florida
Lean codes on both banks always means you have a vacuum leak in the intake tract.
Chase it down.
Ive seen everyone here talking about an elbow that goes bad. my V10 van doesn’t have one so I don’t know specifically. And I’ve only owned my 4.6 van for a few months and I’ve barely opened the hood a few times at all.
Anyway, find and fix that vacuum leak and then clear the codes and motor on!
Chase it down.
Ive seen everyone here talking about an elbow that goes bad. my V10 van doesn’t have one so I don’t know specifically. And I’ve only owned my 4.6 van for a few months and I’ve barely opened the hood a few times at all.
Anyway, find and fix that vacuum leak and then clear the codes and motor on!
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Kissimmee,Fla
Thanks,I really wish he let me look at this truck before he bought it. It is a rust bucket under the body. At first I though it was the fuel pump. This 3 v doesnt have a fuel rail pressure valve on it so I guess you get it through the scanner. I'm not looking forward to doing a pump in this truck because of the rust issues. I really wish they would outlaw the brine they put on the roads. It's killing all the vehicles,no matter what brand they are. I,m gonna get into this a little deeper and get back to you all with the damages.....Bill
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Las Cruces New Mexico
Theres a elbow on the back of the intake manifold that deteriorates pver time, try cleaning the throttle body as this gum up over time and get stuck. There also a motor called Iintake Manifold Runner Control valve selenoid that sometimes the bushings holding the linkage wear out causing them to fall out and giving you lean or rich codes. Good luck.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Kissimmee,Fla
Anyone know what the fuel rail pressure is at idle. I jumped the control module out and got 78psi according to the scanner. The best I can keep it running at is 1000/1100 rpms. Still has a miss and it doesn't come up on the scanner. I got to get this running for my brother so he can plow. Im a GM gas guy at heart but don't have one any longer. Guess this is good practice for when the Mustang get cranky, that's got only 38k on it.
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Logistics Pro
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From: Kissimmee,Fla
Sorry it's been so long getting back. I was waiting on parts and having a double hernia doesn't help either. The intake manifold had a bad injector seat on # 1. Replaced the intake and gaskets,o rings flow checked the injectors with a set up I have from working at the marina on outboards and such. Now I have one bank running over rich (1,2,3,4) and one side running lean (5,6,7,8) And it runs like garbage naturally. double and triple checked all vacuum lines and sensors. I have a VMS clone on the way,I'm using a Snap On Solas Pro right now. I still think it's the cam phasers but have no codes for them. I'm about to give up on this one. Any ideas out there?
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Kissimmee,Fla
Well this might be a problem too Baro is at 146,should be at or around 157 considering I'm at sea level. Also it is possible that I have the rods on the controller in the back of the intake together wrong. I'll have to find a diagram on the proper placement. Anybody have a pic by chance? I haven't given up yet.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Kissimmee,Fla
Ok, got the rods in the right place. I definitely screw the deal on that. Still have a out of wack baro reading and the fuel trim are way out. I'm going to erase the Kam and go through everything one more time and start it fresh and see what comes up. I know every vacuum leak is fixed. I'm still leaning to timing issues but I'm keeping a open mind to other possible solutions. There has been a lot of hands in this truck and anything is possible.
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Logistics Pro
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From: Kissimmee,Fla
I earned the KAM today and started it up. Baro was at 151, better than 147hz grm/s was 9.67 at idle, I don't like those numbers. The short fuel trim bank 1 was -6 and on bank 2 was 34. Something is definitely out of wack. I runs terrible. Not being real familiar with the newer gas engines and no standard specs, I'm not sure which way to go. Something keeps telling me cats and something steers me to the MAF. Who's the tech here?
Posting Guru
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From: San Antonio, Texas
Baro(), MAF and several other things you mentioned are common to both sides. I don't know what you meant by: "I jumped the control module out and got 78psi according to the scanner". But 78 would be way high if it's RELATIVE to intake vacuum like it should be - per the FRP sensor. (Should be 39-40 psi). So verify the integrity of the vacuum line to it. Verify FPDM is working as they frequently crap out with corrosion (you mention rust bucket). But those are common to both banks too.
O2 sensors, and Cats are bank specific. Check those. It's unusual for one side to be rich, the other to be lean. That is often a symptom of VVT problems, but I trust it would produce a code if that were the case right now. Are the rich / lean codes still the only ones you're getting?
O2 sensors, and Cats are bank specific. Check those. It's unusual for one side to be rich, the other to be lean. That is often a symptom of VVT problems, but I trust it would produce a code if that were the case right now. Are the rich / lean codes still the only ones you're getting?
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Logistics Pro
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From: Kissimmee,Fla
Ok, here the deal, got my clone VMS up and running. Did all the tests including cylinder relative compression. #1 down 38 per cent. Took the valve cover off and the motor is done. Cam wiped out valve bent and rocker in pieces. Time for a new mill as it's not money smart to fix it. That's my story and ImI sticking with it.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2015
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From: San Antonio, Texas
Ok, here the deal, got my clone VMS up and running. Did all the tests including cylinder relative compression. #1 down 38 per cent. Took the valve cover off and the motor is done. Cam wiped out valve bent and rocker in pieces. Time for a new mill as it's not money smart to fix it. That's my story and ImI sticking with it.
You can tell that a valve is bent by just removing the valve cover! Rocker in pieces (I presume you are referring to a roller/follower...?) Sure. That could chew up a cam lobe - and it's one of the intake valves, or an exhaust valve is not opening - certainly that cylinder wouldn't have any compression. But even if a valve is bent - or you had to replace an entire head including new cam, passing judgment 'that it's time for a new mill' sounds a bit 'cop out-ish'.
I've floated the valves on my 332 and 352 motors back in high school over-revving them and bent valves. They would run like **** for several miles after the drag race, and gradually start quieting down - and live for another day/race. I doubt you have piston damage - but I would not relegate the engine to the junk pile until I borescoped the cylinder.
JUST SAYIN'
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Logistics Pro
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From: Kissimmee,Fla
It's a high mileage engine in a plow truck. Lots of rust on the mill and there is noisy valve train on the other side. Let do the math, timing chain and phasers 900, head work and gaskets 700 labor about 12 hours give or take. Misc parts here and there another 300. A reman is about 2200 my cost. 6 hours to do. 3 year 100,000 mile warranty. That's a no brainier. I wouldn't mess with a used engine unless it's under 80,000 miles and dirt cheap. It's not worth my time and aggravation. Case closed.