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I have a 99 F350 single wheel that has been sitting for about 2 years and I'm trying to get to moving again. On the left rear I can get 7 out of 8 lugs off burt I have one that no matter what I do. I've tried all the good penetrating fluids, heating it up till it was starting to glow but when I tired to break it off I ended up breaking another socket on it. It's not cross threaded but I'm lost on how to get it off. I have a new lug to replace it but I don't want to damage the stud. Any suggestions?
freeze and release sometimes works... but it only goes so far.. if your not using impact sockets they will continue to snap under the strain.. standard sockets are only made to lightly torqued bolts.. impact sockets, breaker bar with an extension pole or really strong impact gun will probably be the only thing that will budge them.. if not your going to have to cut them off and replace the studs.
YEP.... or Much more heat... like it is cherry red...
or black impact socket and a 3 foot bar.... and Stand On It... Really.
I've snapped a black impact on it and it had it as hot as I could get it. Is there a way to drill it out and put in a new stud without pulling the axle
I've snapped a black impact on it and it had it as hot as I could get it. Is there a way to drill it out and put in a new stud without pulling the axle
YES, drill the center of stud.. then snap it off.. hammer out the remaining part...
breaker bar and use a floor jack to push the end of the breaker bar to loosen. I have done that where I could not get a long breaker bar on it to do by hand.
A mechanic taught me to tap stubborn lugs and bolts. The vibration can break the seal (usually rust) and then it will come off much easier. It's worked for me every time ... I use a snowmobile axle as my tapping "punch" in the middle of the wheel stud.
If you can get in close enough, and safe enough, to make a light incision along the length of the nut, with a cut-off grinder wheel,, mini cut off wheel, or probably even a file. without cutting all the way through to the threads. This will provide a path of least resistance, for it to break, or tear apart when turned hard.
Do you have an impact wrench? I used the impact Dewalt 20v 1/2 on its lowest setting to vibrate the connection between the lug and threads, just let it hammer away. Then move up to each higher setting. I've never had one that didn't come off. If nothing else it'll break off and then replace it.
FYI...an old trick is to apply wax (not car wax) to the end when it's hot, the heat will pull the wax into the threads and act as a lubricant....... also a mix of 50/50 acetone/mineral spirits works well too (but no torch)
When I get into those situations I just reverse the breaker bar and go clockwise to twist the studs off. If it's that tight and you already tried heat and beating on it you should replace the stud anyway. On deep wheels where you cannot get on the nut without a extension on the socket I will use a jackstand as a fulcrum to avoid the socket pulling off the nut when standing on it. If push comes to shove I have a steel pipe in the corner to extend the breaker bar.
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