I know there is no substitute for weighing my rig, I'm not near a cat scale. So, from a gut feel looking at the rear springs (pics below), how much compression constitutes an overload?

2003 F-350 CCLB XLT, 4X4, 7.3, 3.73. 245/70R19.5, with camper option and BDS front leveling kit. Also I don't have a yellow payload sticker in the door.

How my rig looks with 3,600 pounds in the bed (each box is 40 pounds), some sag in the rear, think it would be level if it did not have the leveling kit:



The front pad of the rear helper spring is not touching (it is close, same on both sides).



The rear pad of the rear spring is touching, this contact happened when adding the last few hundred pounds at the back of the bed (also the same on both sides)



My gut math suggests I am over GVWR, but the springs don't tell me the same story. A quick helpful answer would be knowing how much camper the camper option is rated for. I could not find that detail.

Truck drives fine with the load, but I'm not exceeding the 40mph speed limit on the trip. I have a lot more loads to do.

 

Static loading is not nearly representative of the dynamic load of driving. That 3600# just sitting there makes the springs looks fine, but what do the springs look like bouncing over expansion joints on the highway.

Are you asking if yo're overloaded? Or if a few small trips overloaded will damage anything? Or are you planning on overloading it consistently?

 

Not an answer but this shows why I personally do not understand why people want leveling kits. At first impression it looks quite overloaded do the the front being higher. In some parts of the country I would not be surprised to get pulled over driving that just by appearance. BUT BUT BUT Like you said you are not even touching the auxiliary spring at both ends yet. Going by this I would think you are well within rear axle rating. not that my opinion means anything.....

 

The ramp in the background you're parked on doesn't help your case. Can't really tell what it looks like. I wouldn't hesitate to haul that load a few times though.

 

a 2003 f-250 crew cab 4X4 payload is 2500lbs

you are over loaded by 1100lbs

 

He has a F350, so hes right at the limit from what Ford says

 

Heres my 2004 F350 with TWO pallets of fresh cut very moist sod. Operator told me combined weight read off his machine was 3968lbs....like you the front of the overload was not touching but the rear was. I actually had two more inches before the front of the overload spring would touch. If i added another 400-500 pounds to get that to happen id be so overloaded It could have calls perminent damage possibly. I dont understand why ford makes the overload spring so flat on these trucks. They wont engage till the truck is at near max payload, i was going to remove them and have a local spring shop rearch them but between my time, new ubolts and center bolts and price to have them rearched its not worth it to me since i dont haul near max but once or twice a year

 

I really don't want to overload it at all. Safety first, and reliability second, I can't afford an accident or a breakdown.

I have done about a half dozen loads so far, working up from about a ton on the first load, and have probably several dozen more like it. I can load lighter and make more trips. I also want to make as few trips as possible... The round trip is 60 miles and takes about two hours (40 is the highest speed limit on the route, it is as low as 20 in the hills and canyons).

This truck is from Texas, and is a popular look there. I am concerned I am over GVWR even if I am OK on the rear axle.

The front bumper with winch, rear bumper, 67G fuel tank, and the 5 commercial rims and tires add weight to the truck, which takes away payload. While the upgraded tires are good for almost 10K pounds per axle, I do understand they do not increase the carrying capacity of the truck, but I'm not likely to blow a tire.

And the taller tires in theory reduce drivetrain load capacity since this effectively undoes some of the axle gearing. I do like the 245s more than the 285s it came with.

The rear drop with that load is about 3". I did not measure the front for axle drop (or rise). Does not feel light in front though.

Yes, F-350. Which really means an extra set of 2" blocks. Also, if I understand what I have read, the camper option means the rear is fitted with the "heavy" springs and rear sway bar.

I know none of you can tell me this was a safe load, only I am responsible for that decision. I do appreciate the input so far for helping me think this through so I make that decision.

 

That might be part of where my concern is coming from. I have read the F-350 is designed to carry 2/3 of rated capacity on a continuous basis. And that it should sit level at that weight. So it would be a bit tail-down at full capacity. The leveling kit messes with that...

I am trying to "read" the rear helper springs and expected them to fully engage the pads at about 2/3 capacity, but maybe they do not have an actual static weight carrying role? Maybe they are more for dynamic control of the load in motion? Which would mean fully engaging them is an axle overload?

 

There's more to weight ratings than the springs.. The Axle has a weight rating. So even if you have a bag or two added, you may exceed the axle weight rating.
As someone said above, a static weight load only tells part of the story. Dynamic load capacity while moving could tell and show a lot more. The hitch ball or gooseneck ball weight rating is or could be the weak link. Make sure your hitch or gooseneck ball rating is up to the job. So many hitch ***** and shanks have very low ratings.

Check this out for gooseneck *****, hitch ***** and shank ratings: https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Ball?...SAAEgKPdvD_BwE

Another thing to consider is the truck's stability and safety as you increase the load factor. Stopping, Tire load rating, tire pressure, Tire condition, spring bounce, cornering, etc...

Overloaded Truck
https://www.google.com/search?q=over...khgq7h6M_RVabM:


But he's Hauling it..

Check this out... http://www.trucktrend.com/how-to/tow...-about-towing/

Getting to your destination safely is more important than how fast or how much you could take in one load.

 

Rent a trailer and do significantly more at once. 1-2k in the bed, 6k on the trailer would double what you're doing now, should come in under your axle weights, and is peanuts in terms of what the truck can pull. I say 6k onthe trailer because 7k utility trailers are common here since that's the weight limit for needing brakes limit in Texas, you might could find a larger one and tow more on one trip.

 

Rear axle rating on our f350 is 6800lbs, factory wheels and tires are rated more than that for safety. Now lets say at 4k in weight you still have 2,800 lbs on rear axle rating. Only way to be sure is to weigh the truck on a scale with full tank of fuel and you in it with your everyday things in the cab also. Im lucky i have a 5.4 ext cab short bed f350 so ill safetly have enough capacity compared to you with a crew cab long bed diesel

 

I would, but there is no way to get a trailer into the places this stuff is stored. I can barely get the truck in and out.

 

I'd say take the load on down the road. But be mindful of keeping the speed in check, not bouncing thru any big pot holes and keep an eye out for situations that might require hard braking..
But then again I am the kind of guy that pulled 5th wheel trailers around for years using a 1/2 ton SWB chevy and most recently transported a 3200 pound load of precast concrete Houston -> Austin in the bed of a F-150 rated to haul 1600# (rear axle mashed into the rubber stops, rear tires all but flattened @ 50 psig).
It all is in using the tool with respect to load, when heavily loaded just take 'er easy and drive like grandpa...

 

I saw a kit made to make them contact sooner. Not sure who possibly torklift??