Hi guys,
My 13 yr old son is the proud owner of a 67 F100 SWB. We just got it a few weeks ago. I knew it had some rust in the floor pans, and pretty clean everywhere else. The plan is pretty simple, CV front end, explorer rear (I think) , coyote, blah blah.... Pretty basic for these now a days. In looking at the pans, there are some spots. Not quite a flinstone mobile, but if you have small feet, we may call it one. WIth that being said, any reason not to replace the whole things, and mot patch it. Pics attached.

 

Cab mounts are under there, might as well replace those also as they will be rusted. I did a 72 once that was nowhere near that bad and had to replace about 6 inches up the kick panel to get solid metal, and it didn't even have a bubble in the paint. I guess I'm just saying, plan on going a lot further than you think.

 

Thanks. The cab mounts dont look bad, but I have yet to take it off the frame. I am getting it blasted before starting on the pans, so that will shed light on all of that. I suppose it makes sense to replace all while I am there. Trying to get the bed and cab off the frame, then off for media blasting in the next few weeks. I am still in the process of stripping the firewall and gauges, etc. Getting the darn dash pad off about killed my hands. Ultimately, this is a project to get my son off the computer while spending time with him and learning new things.
Again, thanks for the feedback.

 

JBrian when you go to buy your floor pans. do not get them from LMC. the bed patch panels i got form them where some of biggest pieces of junk ever. if i had known that they where going to be that far off. i would have gone to the junkyard and had them cut out the pieces instead. don,t buy anything form LMC if you can help it. good luck with your truck.

 

I find that an old STOP sign is just the right gauge metal to make a great patch...

 

For what it is worth, had floor pans about like that in my 71. I ended up, ospho (ing) and painting the rusted areas, then took new pans, fitted them over the old and used rivets to secure (about every couple of inches across edge and some to pull it snug on the floor. Then I sealed up the edges with seam sealer and sealed up underneath as well.

 

It might take him away from his gaming time, but he'll be using the computer to search for parts.
I've been shopping at AutoZone, Broadway Transmission and Auto Parts, Classic Auto Parts in Oklahoma City, Clips and Fasteners, Concours Parts, Dennis Carpenter, Eckler's Automotive/Mac's Auto Parts, Rock Auto and Scott Drake.
I recommend that you obtain a copy of the CD "1964/72 FORD TRUCK FINAL ISSUE Master Parts and Accessories CATALOG". For $25 or so, you get more than 6,800 pages of information... it's kind of like trying to drink from a fire hose.
It's hard for me to judge, but if you do your own welding, it may be cheaper to patch; otherwise, I think I'd go for a replacement cab (the reproductions can still be ordered new), especially if you're going to take the original cab off the frame.
I hope the boy learns about how satisfying it can be to rebuild, repair, restore, etc. It's going to take some determination and some tenacity. Besides, if he puts his blood, sweat and tears into it, he'll value it more than if it was just a gift.

BTW, don't hesitate to ask for help & opinions around here. I doubt there's any "NEW" problem in these boards -- the contributors here have likely seen (and coped with) everything.
If you are going to ask, it helps to give enough information to diagnose; all to often, we see folks trying to get help with problems and they don't even mention which engine they're dealing with.

Good luck to you on the project.

 

Thidpar where can you order a replacement cab.? i did not know that reproduction cabs where out there.

 

A lot of the areas that rust, like the cab mounts drip rails and kick panels, rust from the inside out because they are raw metal on the inside. Take an ice pick and poke around. If you see any bubbles at all in the paint, the metal behind it is gone.
I have also owned trucks with roadsign repairs to the floors,lol. I think people worry too much about floors. I use 18 gauge, my $99 HF bead roller and make my own. Once they are in and undercoated good, who is ever going to see them?

 

Well, if you want fiberglass, you could go here: 67-72 Ford Truck

(That's a bit pricey for me, but it will probably last for another forty years)

 

Iberian, when you get a chance take some pic of the truck and post them. We all love to see what you are working with and there are many here that can show you what is important to address.

 

Also, there's these, if you want to take this route:

(Left) https://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_t...wide-left.html
(Right) https://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_t...thru-f250.html

 

Thanks for all of the responses. It is appreciated. I will post some pics soon. From what I can tell thus far, the floor seems to be the only part with more than surface rust. However, I have yet to remove the glass. The truck has been a Texas truck from day 1, which I am hoping means the rust wont be too bad. The frame is very clean. Bed floor has no rust either... at least from the top side. There was no front clip on the truck, but it came with a front clip from a different truck / same yr. It is a 67 Ranger, what all does that mean? I assume the Ranger was equivalent to a Lariat back then?

 

Now this is what I call words of wisdom. 2X.

Welcome to FTE and The Bumpside Kingdom.
Daddys and young gentlemen don't normally start out that young. I proud of you and your son. As stated above, he'll have less computer hand and eye coordination time. BUT, he'll have more "hands on" time. AKA working with his hands. That is a good thing.
Note my signature.

 

Great thread! Thanks ! Im getting ready to weld in new floor pans in my 72 F350. But now, thanks to this thread, I may be doing some patching with a street sign.Thanks!