Sweating Pipes
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: North East
Sweating Pipes
Hello all, this is a problem I am having with the new waterlines I ran in my house and Garage. I live in NEPA and it's been quite humid here this summer, and I have well water, which is naturally refrigerated. Anyway, the sweat on the pipes is dripping all over everything, turning stuff green and making stuff wet.
Is there anything I can do to stop this? I have seen foam pipe wraps, but will these work or will they just hold the water against the pipe. Any thoughts or ideas?
Is there anything I can do to stop this? I have seen foam pipe wraps, but will these work or will they just hold the water against the pipe. Any thoughts or ideas?
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,297
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From: Billings MT
Sweating Pipes
I think if you wrap them with insulation you can prevent the condensation. Condensation occurs with there is a temperature difference of x degrees AND the humidity is y. By wrapping the pipes with insulation(yellow stuff with white plastic cover), you are eliminating the temperature difference and shouldn't have any condensation.
Just an idea. I would recommend using the wrap versus the foam covers that just slip over.
Just an idea. I would recommend using the wrap versus the foam covers that just slip over.
Posting Legend
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 30,255
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Sweating Pipes
The pipe insulation must completely seal the pipe away from air. If you use the slip on foam insulation seal the joints with good duct tape or electrical tape. If you don't seal the joints the humid air will get inside and moisture will condense on the pipe and drip out anyway. The yellow fiberglass wrap will sometimes get saturated with water and drip anyway.
-btw, if you are worried about the silver duct tape color against the (usually) black foam pipe insulation, -you can buy black duct tape. I don't worry about such things but I ran into one homeowner that did once...
-btw, if you are worried about the silver duct tape color against the (usually) black foam pipe insulation, -you can buy black duct tape. I don't worry about such things but I ran into one homeowner that did once...
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: North East
Sweating Pipes
Originally posted by Torque1st
-btw, if you are worried about the silver duct tape color against the (usually) black foam pipe insulation, -you can buy black duct tape. I don't worry about such things but I ran into one homeowner that did once...
-btw, if you are worried about the silver duct tape color against the (usually) black foam pipe insulation, -you can buy black duct tape. I don't worry about such things but I ran into one homeowner that did once...
New User
Joined: Apr 2003
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<<<<<<BOY>>>>>>
Am I ever jumping in to this conversation late or what?
oh well, for the record I can answer this one.
Stick with the "synthetic" pipe insulation found in lumber yards/ Phone Depot/ Slowe's
Stay away from fiberglass pipe wrap( it will get soggy) or foam style pipe wrap ($$)
for my money get the type that already has the adhesive applied so you just rip off the plastic strip and press it together. Much quicker.
also make sure you at least halfway seal any gaps in the insulation( where one piece dead-ends into another or at bends)
I do HVAC for a living so have faith.
P.S. if you're looking to scrimp a little just get some cheap electrical tape and wrap the pipe TIGHTLY while dry. you will still get condensation, but you won't have green slime all over the floor.
Cheers
Scott
Am I ever jumping in to this conversation late or what?
oh well, for the record I can answer this one.
Stick with the "synthetic" pipe insulation found in lumber yards/ Phone Depot/ Slowe's
Stay away from fiberglass pipe wrap( it will get soggy) or foam style pipe wrap ($$)
for my money get the type that already has the adhesive applied so you just rip off the plastic strip and press it together. Much quicker.
also make sure you at least halfway seal any gaps in the insulation( where one piece dead-ends into another or at bends)
I do HVAC for a living so have faith.
P.S. if you're looking to scrimp a little just get some cheap electrical tape and wrap the pipe TIGHTLY while dry. you will still get condensation, but you won't have green slime all over the floor.
Cheers
Scott
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Wichita KS.
They make this sealant stuff (can't remember what it's called) that goes on like paint. I used to be an insulator and we used it when we did ant pipe that ran chilled water. Make sure your adhesive strip is on smooth, and use butt tape (yes, that is the actual name of it, and I was an insulator, not a plumber) on all your joints. Then, just brush the stuff on and let it dry. To be on the safe side, it should all be dry before you pressurize you lines for good.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Gainesville, FL
All,
Insulation will cure your problem. Darctangent is correct. Closed cell insulation is required, not fiberglass. The higher density (PCF) and thickness (inches), the better the insulating properties. Put your seams down so if there is an air gap you will be able to see the condensate dripping out rather than accumulating. Well water is usually about 60F to 70F so, 1/2" or 3/4" insulation should suffice. Tape what you can. You'll be fine.
KingFisher
Insulation will cure your problem. Darctangent is correct. Closed cell insulation is required, not fiberglass. The higher density (PCF) and thickness (inches), the better the insulating properties. Put your seams down so if there is an air gap you will be able to see the condensate dripping out rather than accumulating. Well water is usually about 60F to 70F so, 1/2" or 3/4" insulation should suffice. Tape what you can. You'll be fine.
KingFisher
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 109
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From: Farm
Those foam wraps work very well we have them around our overhead pipe in our farm shop that runs water to our preshure washer. Here in minnesota we get some really nasty humid days in the summertime and I have never seen any drips coming of of the line and our well water is of a very cold nature I would put some of that on and see if it cures your drip
New User
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: In the woods
Ok, I'm in over my head here and am about to get laughed at but here goes: You might want to call a local well driller and ask him about this. Of course you know what the green stuff is and as long as it is only occurring on the outside of the pipes it is just an eyesore I guess, but I have been told by the state guy that inspects new wells (I'm about to drill on some rural land) that my new retirement home can NOT be plumbed with copper due to something in the well water around here that reacts with the copper or solder. I don't know enough about it.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,613
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From: Gainesville, FL
Stump,
Don't taunt us with a mysterious substance. Please specifically declare what might be in your well. I'm quite curious. Is it chemical or biological? The reason I ask is, I had a copper water line spring a leak last year and caused a small fortune in damage. The corrosion failure was never determined.
KingFisher
Don't taunt us with a mysterious substance. Please specifically declare what might be in your well. I'm quite curious. Is it chemical or biological? The reason I ask is, I had a copper water line spring a leak last year and caused a small fortune in damage. The corrosion failure was never determined.
KingFisher
New User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 5
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From: In the woods
That green stuff is copper sulfate and I ain't no chemist. It is about the same as the stuff they put on the bottom paint for boats...kills little critters such as barnacles and oysters. Eh, it is especially poisonous to small children. The well-water guru says it is because our water is soft. It is more able to react with the copper and solder than hard water because hard water has already absorbed a lot of minerals. Hope this helps.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,371
Likes: 10
From: Green Springs, OH
Hey tangent fellow hvac tech here right on the money. Youll be fine with the black foam insulation usually called Armaflex or Normolock. Could also try running a dehumidifier to take the humidity out the space.
