4 row radiator question
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 208
Likes: 28
4 row radiator question
So, I pulled the radiator from my 74 250 CS. Factory copper/brass 4 core radiator. On the outside it looka like its in great condition. I dropped it off to a radiator shop that, by local good ol boys account, is a reputable shop.
He called me yesterday and told me that internally, the solder has deteriorated to the point that a rebuild / re-solder is required. To the tune of about 7-800 bucks.
Well, I'm pretty sure I'm just going the Champion aluminum route. My question is, is there any value to this old giant factory rad outside of scrap metal? I would love nothing more than to rebuild it and put a high quality factory part back in. However this is my little budget weekend project and it's just not in the cards to drop almost a grand extra. This isn't a period correct restoration.
I'll pic it back up Monday and post pics if anyone is interested.
He called me yesterday and told me that internally, the solder has deteriorated to the point that a rebuild / re-solder is required. To the tune of about 7-800 bucks.
Well, I'm pretty sure I'm just going the Champion aluminum route. My question is, is there any value to this old giant factory rad outside of scrap metal? I would love nothing more than to rebuild it and put a high quality factory part back in. However this is my little budget weekend project and it's just not in the cards to drop almost a grand extra. This isn't a period correct restoration.
I'll pic it back up Monday and post pics if anyone is interested.
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 74
Likes: 1
From: Mokelumne Hill
Never heard of this before let alone a radiator repair bill that far out of this world. I have a 1976 f-250 CS with the original 4 row core radiator.that about 20 years ago I had rodded out and it cools fine still. Local shop charges $148.00 to remove both tanks and rod out. I would suggest taking that radiator to another shop for if nothing else a flow test.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 208
Likes: 28
Yeah, when I spoke to him on the phone he said to bring it in and he would flow test it for $30 or so and paint it.
That was Friday afternoon I dropped it off. He called Saturday afternoon stating the above. Hmmmm.
Well, ill speak to him Monday in person and go from there.
That was Friday afternoon I dropped it off. He called Saturday afternoon stating the above. Hmmmm.
Well, ill speak to him Monday in person and go from there.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,553
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I might believe $700-$800 was in line if it included a new copper/brass core and rest of the work top notch. Just to re-solder what you have not reasonable at all.
I run a 4 core Champion and like it. Mine is painted black. A good clean with Scotchbrite and lacquer thinner and a couple cans of radiator paint.
I run a 4 core Champion and like it. Mine is painted black. A good clean with Scotchbrite and lacquer thinner and a couple cans of radiator paint.
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 74
Likes: 1
From: Mokelumne Hill
Resoldering the top and bottom plates to the tubes is a standard approach in radiator repair/rodding out or at least it is in my area.Every radiator I have taken in for the last 40 years has been done this way. Just had a 4 row core done in December out of a customer's BBC powered wagon. fee was $148.00 and the radiator was a brass and copper unit made by Harrison in the US. Looked like new inside and out.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 247
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I got my radiator through https://www.radiator.com Limited lifetime warranty. Model 1501, Dual flange mount 24 x 26 Inch Core Dimensions 4 Row (I believe that it is copper, aluminum cores are stated as such) cost 514.00. hope this helps
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 208
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Picked up the rad today, the fellow said that there was excessive "solder bloom". He said he could have it rodded, resolder the end plates or even re-core the unit. He said it would most likely never work as well as it did new or a new rad altogether. I'll punt for the moment.
With that, an old timer I know said, after I picked it up...
"I've never seen that guy repair a radiator in 20 years. He'll sell you a new one though."
As much as I'd love to restore the old unit, at $200 to rod and repair up to $500+ to re-core I'll just go with a new Champion 3 row alum.
With that, an old timer I know said, after I picked it up...
"I've never seen that guy repair a radiator in 20 years. He'll sell you a new one though."
As much as I'd love to restore the old unit, at $200 to rod and repair up to $500+ to re-core I'll just go with a new Champion 3 row alum.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 4,436
Likes: 19
From: Regina, Saskatchewan
Picked up the rad today, the fellow said that there was excessive "solder bloom". He said he could have it rodded, resolder the end plates or even re-core the unit. He said it would most likely never work as well as it did new or a new rad altogether. I'll punt for the moment.
With that, an old timer I know said, after I picked it up...
"I've never seen that guy repair a radiator in 20 years. He'll sell you a new one though."
As much as I'd love to restore the old unit, at $200 to rod and repair up to $500+ to re-core I'll just go with a new Champion 3 row alum.
With that, an old timer I know said, after I picked it up...
"I've never seen that guy repair a radiator in 20 years. He'll sell you a new one though."
As much as I'd love to restore the old unit, at $200 to rod and repair up to $500+ to re-core I'll just go with a new Champion 3 row alum.
Look up "galvanic corrosion" before you purchase a new aluminum radiator so you know what you're getting into.
New User
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Baldwin City
I worked in a Radiator shop where we built copper and brass units. His reasons are legitimate but his prices are 2 or 3 times what it should be for a new 4 row high efficiency core rebuild.
BTW hes talking about re-running the headers.
BTW hes talking about re-running the headers.
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 56
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From: orrville ohio
I had my original 4 core re cored. No it wasn't and I could have sernt some of that money on a lot of other needed things for my restoration. That being said keep your old one and get it done at a later date. Aluminum rads I doubt will hold up like the good ole original.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 4,436
Likes: 19
From: Regina, Saskatchewan
I had my original 4 core re cored. No it wasn't and I could have sernt some of that money on a lot of other needed things for my restoration. That being said keep your old one and get it done at a later date. Aluminum rads I doubt will hold up like the good ole original.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 757
Likes: 43
From: Cheyenne, Wy
Rad cleaning
I have been considering this for a few weeks. I have a container that will hold my radiator but do not know what chemicals the old radiator shops used to clean/boil these in. I want to do a thorough cleaning at home for this and the heater core.
I have a way to evenly heat the container if need be.
I have a way to evenly heat the container if need be.
New User
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Baldwin City
I have been considering this for a few weeks. I have a container that will hold my radiator but do not know what chemicals the old radiator shops used to clean/boil these in. I want to do a thorough cleaning at home for this and the heater core.
I have a way to evenly heat the container if need be.
I have a way to evenly heat the container if need be.
It still required rodding out of the tubes. Sometimes when rodding them out the tubes will be so thin they will leak after cleaning. If you really want to pull the end tanks off and rod them out..go for it. Just pressure test it after at about 20psi