Imrc problems
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New User
Joined: Feb 2018
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Imrc problems
We have code 1537 and 1538 coming up on scanner we have had the intake off and have cleaned the intake and replaced both intake modules at the back of the intake and replaced the control module at the side of the plenum and also checked all the vacum lines and still have these codes still showing up on scanner .any other things to check we have tried everything .we need to get the truck fixed so we can do an emmions test done
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,907
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Those codes are for a V6. Both banks stuck open. I won't hurt the engine but the small loss in lower end torque.
Clear the codes if you have not done so or your looking at old history after the work was done..
Make sure both are free to move.
Good luck.
Clear the codes if you have not done so or your looking at old history after the work was done..
Make sure both are free to move.
Good luck.
4th Gear
Joined: Sep 2023
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
same problem 1537 1538
hello new here . I have a 97 F150 I changed both IMRC actuators and there doesn't seem to be any vacuum leaks but I can't get these codes to go away . Any suggestions on what it might be before I purchase a new PCM ?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 1,317
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What makes you think the computer is at fault?
You know what mileage is on the engine. Pull plugs, check for compression and blow by.
Eventually, these 4.2s burns oil and the butterflies are forced open. About to swap an engine that’s dealing with that right now.
Edit: If that mileage number in your profile is correct, then I’m not shocked.
You know what mileage is on the engine. Pull plugs, check for compression and blow by.
Eventually, these 4.2s burns oil and the butterflies are forced open. About to swap an engine that’s dealing with that right now.
Edit: If that mileage number in your profile is correct, then I’m not shocked.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2023
Posts: 1,379
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From: WA
1997 uses vacuum to open the butterfly valves and an electrical switch to open a valve to apply the vacuum. I would focus on understanding what feedback the PCM gets to know if the valves are open or closed. The PCM actuates the switch but must be getting a signal back from somewhere to know if its command has been met.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2023
Posts: 1,379
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From: WA
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4th Gear
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The vacuum canister (above the RF inner fender) needs to be checked and its related hoses and one-way valves checked
The one behind the battery does not usually crack but check that one too
Use a a hand held vacuum pump and see if they both hold vacuum
The one behind the battery does not usually crack but check that one too
Use a a hand held vacuum pump and see if they both hold vacuum
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2023
Posts: 1,379
Likes: 383
From: WA
Spraying carb cleaner won't find the kind of vacuum problem you're looking for. Besides that the PCM reacts too quickly to hear any change in engine RPM. It doesn't work on these engines.
That electrical switch is in the middle of the vacuum path. If I understand the system correctly the valves are normally open. When there is no vacuum a spring opens the valves. So, one simple way to break your problem in half is to check for vacuum at that switch I linked to. If there's no vacuum at the switch then the problem is before the switch, in the vacuum supply to the switch. If there is vacuum, and the switch is opening when the engine is idling (check for vacuum on the downstream side), then the problem is after the switch, in the hoses or the actuators. If the switch isn't opening then there's a problem with the switch or the wiring.
Short - find out what is happening at the vacuum control switch.
That electrical switch is in the middle of the vacuum path. If I understand the system correctly the valves are normally open. When there is no vacuum a spring opens the valves. So, one simple way to break your problem in half is to check for vacuum at that switch I linked to. If there's no vacuum at the switch then the problem is before the switch, in the vacuum supply to the switch. If there is vacuum, and the switch is opening when the engine is idling (check for vacuum on the downstream side), then the problem is after the switch, in the hoses or the actuators. If the switch isn't opening then there's a problem with the switch or the wiring.
Short - find out what is happening at the vacuum control switch.
3rd Gear
Joined: Sep 2023
Posts: 3
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finally figured it out .
well after pulling my hair out and replacing every darn thing that can be replaced to no avail, this video popped up on youtube that fixed everything. What finally work was simply resetting the ECM by removing and touching the + & - battery cables together for 4 min's . I'll be darned it worked , after going through a drive cycle the IM readiness is all good and no codes. So I hope this can help someone else who might be struggling with this issue in the future. Thanks everyone for your ideas .