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Does anybody have one of these lift bracket kits? I would like to get a hold of one. They're a bit pricey buying new. Wouldn't mind renting one from someone for a couple weeks if possible.
The center of gravity is set too far back. And not sure that casting has the tensile, it wasn’t designed for lifting.
I pulled mine using 8020 aluminum to make a bracket, two lifting eyes could be used off the forward two pedestal bolts, the installed lifting brackets could be used (what a concept), and there are several home made bracket designs out there. I made one for going back in. But the 8020 was cheap, bolt up, and easily adjustable.
The center of gravity is set too far back. And not sure that casting has the tensile, it wasn’t designed for lifting.
I pulled mine using 8020 aluminum to make a bracket, two lifting eyes could be used off the forward two pedestal bolts, the installed lifting brackets could be used (what a concept), and there are several home made bracket designs out there. I made one for going back in. But the 8020 was cheap, bolt up, and easily adjustable.
I tend to agree with you.
I made this for less than 30.00 including the swivel off ebay. The material was 1/2"x 1 1/2" flat stock out of my local steel suppliers junk bin and a piece of 1/4" flat stock welded to the bottom for rigidity....way overkill, but I wasn't taking a chance with the motor suspended 5' off the ground.
You can use chain but I did not like the way the lifting brackets bent inward against the valve cover so I went this route for install. Worked like a charm
Either way should be fine. I'm not the first to lift by the pedestal bolt holes, and I've never heard of the block breaking there. Lifting the engine out or reinstalling it with just chains at angles hanging from a hoist, to the 2 lift eyes on the heads is not a good way to go, though. At the angle of the chains, the rear one will be into the cowl area and break the plastic and slightly bend the cowl up when you pull the engine... I know from experience.
Each pedestal screw hole has the capability of lifting over 1,000 lbs. The right lifting eye and installation is another story. If there’s any angular forces, like from chains going to a hook, severely reduces the lifting ability, basically any side loading.
Someday I might do a pictorial or vid, but it was cheap and easy to build a platform of 8020 extrusions along with a lifting eye to get the motor out, and at the proper angle. Yeah, I know, it’ll freak people out. Ya got to know your metals. And fasteners.
I had that 2500lb HF winch to pull Christmas trees though the bailer and also use it extended out from my backhoe so I can place Christmas trees into their stand by myself without breaking my back. It has a wireless control fob. Since I was going to do the engine by myself I would have gone nuts going back and forth lifting the motor while trying to clear things and checking clearance. So it was a natural fit. I set up a pulley not for the weight as the winch is well over the need, but it slowed down the cable uptake for more control.
I originally pulled it out this way and let's just say I didn't plan on putting it back in that way for that reason alone. The spreader bar worked like a charm eliminating the use of chains and lifting eyes bending
Originally Posted by mattdoc88
Either way should be fine. I'm not the first to lift by the pedestal bolt holes, and I've never heard of the block breaking there. Lifting the engine out or reinstalling it with just chains at angles hanging from a hoist, to the 2 lift eyes on the heads is not a good way to go, though. At the angle of the chains, the rear one will be into the cowl area and break the plastic and slightly bend the cowl up when you pull the engine... I know from experience.
Do you happen to have drawings on the dimensions on this in about to start removing my engine to swap it and if I could fabricate this bracket ahead of time it would be very helpful, any help would be greatly appreciated
