evaporative emission control system control valve

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  #31  
Old 09-12-2010, 10:43 PM
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I was getting the 443 code on my 96 Mazda B4000 4.0 which is purge valve stuck open. The dealers in a 40 mile range of me did not have the assembly in stock. I used a small screwdriver to carefully pry the cap off of the sensor. The sensor was cached with a yellow/orange waxy looking gunk. I picked it off and brushed the sensor with a nylon brush. I sealed the cap back on with black silicone and covered it with a wrap of black electrical tape. I blew into each end of the purge valve and it was shut. After reassembly was complete, I cleared the old code with my Scangauge and started the truck. Shut it off and restarted for a 3 mile drive. In all I started it about 5 times and the code has not came back. Total cost: $1.16 for a foot of vacuum hose and 1 hour of my time. Simple and CHEAP fix.
 
  #32  
Old 04-30-2011, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by azxr
I had to replace the assembly on my 96 since it went bad. I couldn't pass emissions until I did. Here are the part numbers. It takes about 5 to 10 minutes tops. I got the 3.0L Assembly from my Ford dealer for a little over $80. I tried some auto part stores, but they couldn't find it. It may be different now.

8. If either the canister purge solenoid or the purge flow sensor has to be replaced, replace them as an assembly (hose, purge valve and flow sensor). Refer to Figure 2.


PART NUMBER PART NAME

F67Z-14289-CA Canister Purge Service Kit

F67Z-14289-DA Canister Purge Service Kit

F57Z-9C987-AB Canister Purge Solenoid/Flow Sensor
Assembly - 2.3L

F57Z-9C987-CA Canister Purge Solenoid/Flow Sensor
Assembly - 3.0L

F57Z-9C87-BA Canister Purge Solenoid/Flow Sensor
Assembly - 4.0L
Digging up an OLD thread.....What is the difference between a "KIT" & "ASSEMBLY" here?? Which "KIT" would I need for a '97 4.0 application?? Thanks!!
 
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Old 04-30-2011, 03:10 PM
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The "assembly" is what I used to fix the problem on my '97 4.0L:
"F57Z-9C87-BA Canister Purge Solenoid/Flow Sensor".
I do not know what the "kit" consists of but the "assembly" is the hose, purge valve and flow sensor. As mentioned in my previous note, I used the Mazda B4000 part instead of the Ford part; much less $$!
 
  #34  
Old 07-27-2011, 08:55 AM
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I've got a TIGER in my tank. Recently, my gas cap has been growling at me intermittently as I drive along. I just had the fuel tank dropped and steam cleaned due to water, had the fuel system cleaned, all by Ford service. Now the growling. I have a Ford Windstar 3.0 liter, V6. Any ideas?
 
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Old 10-13-2011, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Supercab
Digging up an OLD thread.....What is the difference between a "KIT" & "ASSEMBLY" here?? Which "KIT" would I need for a '97 4.0 application?? Thanks!!
Just an update if I may, prices are going up,, duh.
The Ford dealer tried to sell me the
F57Z-9C987-AB Canister Purge Solenoid/Flow Sensor
Assembly - 2.3L - Price $205.00
I went to the only Mazda dealer and got the Mazda part number
ZZMO-13-969 which has the Ford label on the box also and it cost $155.61
I did reset the puter over night and will now see if the problem is gone.
Thanks everyone for the help.
 
  #36  
Old 01-10-2012, 11:31 AM
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My 2001 Ranger 2.3 Duratec I4 just threw a code, PO442, which the reader says is Evaporative Emissions System Leak--small. Biggest concern is whether driving it this way until it is fixed will result in dirt entering the air stream and screwing up my engine.
 
  #37  
Old 01-11-2012, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by TallPaul
My 2001 Ranger 2.3 Duratec I4 just threw a code, PO442, which the reader says is Evaporative Emissions System Leak--small. Biggest concern is whether driving it this way until it is fixed will result in dirt entering the air stream and screwing up my engine.
No. Your biggest worry will be to pass an emissions test if you have to have one. Otherwise, there are no worries except for the MIL being on.
 
  #38  
Old 01-11-2012, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by projectSHO89
No. Your biggest worry will be to pass an emissions test if you have to have one. Otherwise, there are no worries except for the MIL being on.
Cool, no testing her in good ol' Michigan. Now biggest problem is that I will never know if it throws another code unless it starts running wrong. I should get a tester so I can turn this off and see if it comes back on? Then also could pull codes periodically. There is one at JC whitney a 120$ tester for 80$ if I have the current catalog.
 
  #39  
Old 01-11-2012, 02:59 PM
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You can reset the codes by either pulling the battery negative cable or else the PCM's KAM fuse for 10-15 minutes.
 
  #40  
Old 01-11-2012, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by projectSHO89
You can reset the codes by either pulling the battery negative cable or else the PCM's KAM fuse for 10-15 minutes.
Wow, what useful info. I will have to try that. Not the best way to reset, but the low buck way. Yeah, who knows the code could have thrown for a fluke, a weird sudden and breif leak during a big bump and it's fine now.
 
  #41  
Old 05-22-2012, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by projectSHO89
You can reset the codes by either pulling the battery negative cable or else the PCM's KAM fuse for 10-15 minutes.
The manual shows two different fuses with "PCM" but no mention of KAM. Should I just pull both and I'm covered?
 
  #42  
Old 05-23-2012, 07:26 AM
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The smaller value (3-5A) is the KAM fuse.
 
  #43  
Old 08-14-2012, 09:02 AM
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Can't figure this one out

I have a 97 Ranger with a 2.3, and it runs very rough, hesitates on acceleration, stalls when you let up off the gas, and won't get over 2k rpms unless you unplug the MAF sensor. I've replaced almost everything under the hood (including the MAF). Here's what I've changed so far:

Plugs, wires and coil packs
TPS, IAC, MAF, CTS, IAT,
Crank positioning sensor
Cam positioning sensor
EGR vacuum pressure sensor

I'm running out of options. can anyone help?
 
  #44  
Old 07-14-2014, 12:58 PM
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My recent P1443 was a plugged purge solenoid valve. With power applied, just spraying carb cleaner in it and light compressed air did nothing. I had to use 120 PSI and a rubber-tipped blow nozzle, and then a wad of something flew out into the driveway (never did find it, but it made quite a "POP" noise when it left the valve), and after a reset, no more CEL.

I'd changed out the purge hoses two years ago, which are the other common problem in that area. They rot & crack.
 
  #45  
Old 10-09-2014, 12:48 PM
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can a bad Vapor Canister Vent or a bad canister purge solenoid cuase my 1999 fors expedition 4.6 lose power.
 


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