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It may be my dumb luck, but I own 3 tanks. I have a 100 gallon tank (at a family ranch for the equipment) a friend of mine who does hot shot work for a living gave me. I bought a 100 gallon tank (in my 2015 F-350) a construction company last year for $100 and when I went to pick it up had about 80 gallons of diesel in it. Then last week I bought a 70 gallon tank for $85 to put in my 2005 Duramax and it was full of diesel too. Right now I have transfer pumps on all the tanks, but I hate the inconvenience of having to stop and fill up.
I’m going to end up selling the 100 gallon tank in the F-350 and replace it with a 50 gallon tank so I can get some of my bed space back. I’m hoping this spring when I have a couple weeks between jobs to get both trucks done at once. I am planning on using the DeeZee kit, but adding in the solenoid valve. I think I’ve convinced myself I don’t need the timed relay if the rollover valve will keep it from overflowing.
I live in New Mexico, working in West Texas. I’m using the tank now so I can get cheap diesel in Odessa on my day off and avoid the price gouging going on out of town. I’ll be in Oklahoma in April. I don’t plan to sell any that I have now. I’ll get the other 100 gallon tank to my dad so he can take fuel back and forth to the ranch without having to lift a tank full of fuel every time we need diesel.
In Alaska... so nowhere near you at the moment. I will be in the lower 48 this summer though not sure Texas/OK/NM is on the plan just yet... A lot depends on what colleges my son wants to visit.
I put in aux, gravity fed tank in mt '13 mid summer. It's a 51 gallon tank and I put an electric valve in and wired it to upfitter#3. I also put in an inline filter for a few tanks to catch anything that could harm the engine. I got the valve at the eBay store Valves4projects.
I've been using an RDS 60 gal combo tank for the past 10 years and 2 trucks. I have also installed the check valve kit in both trucks.
I started with just the manual valve which I would open when needed but it was a pain stopping to open and shut so I installed a solenoid valve and eventually a pump.
I think if the pump ever wears out I will not replace it since the gravity feed more than keeps up with the fuel the trucks uses.
There were many times I left the valve open or the pump on and forgot to shut off but have never had any fuel come out of the trucks' filler neck.
I love the extra range I get with the aux tank. Even pulling my fifthwheel I can drive an entire day and fuel back up that evening.
I’ve had a 33 gal RDS aux tank for almost two years and installed the gravity feed kit. The aux tank valve is always open and I run it until the main tank is low. Fill up the main then the aux. Don’t have a remote controled valve or pomp. Gravity handles the rest.
Just make sure you don’t open the main tank filler cap when the main tank is full and there’s fuel in the aux.
Thanks everybody. I’ve decided to install the gravity feed kit from DeeZee and add a 12v valve for peace of mind. When I get time off work to get it all done I’ll update with how it went.
Update:
I installed a 50 gallon Lund auxiliary tank and connected it with the DeeZee kit. I drove about 750 miles the next day and found when I arrived that there was diesel on my fuel tank skid plate. I was able to eliminate any modifications I had done to the truck as a source of the leak.
Today I installed a 10 micron fuelfilter with a fuel/water separator. From there I went to a 3/8” fuel pump and a 12v 3/8” normally closed solenoid valve. I mounted this all to the filler neck guard mounted to the frame. I also installed a 3/8” ball valve so I can bypass the system in the event of a component failure. I ran some 16 ga wiring to the pumps and valve and wires it into auxiliary switch 3. I gave it a trial run this evening for about 30 minutes and the gauge went up about 1/4 of a tank. The fuel range went up about 80 miles as well, but only adjusted once
In the morning I’ll see what the fuel gauge settled at since it doesn’t respond well when I fill up while the truck is on. I also added an electrical connector so if I ever need the cab to be pulled off they can unplug it and lift off the cab.
Difficulties I ran into are the auxiliary wires are not in the location listed in the owners manual. Most of you likely already know this, I did not. The wires also are extremely difficult to get at.
There isn’t a good clean point to get the wires out of the cab. I followed the factory wiring along the floor and drilled a 7/16” hole and installed a grommet that fit tight on the wire loom. I left about 4” of wire loom inside the cab.
The gravity feed likely would have worked on the fuel filter, but just wanted to add the pump to speed things up. Not sure how much it sped it up, if at all but it makes me feel warm and fuzzy.
Also, the diesel in the picture is from cutting the fuel line and having residual fuel in the line, along with bleeding the air off the fuel filter. It seemed to have an air lock and wouldn’t gravity feed into the filter without bleeding it off.
Total install time took about 2 hours by myself.
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