2004 5.4 3v Rough idle, Stalls and Misfire
#16
02-19-2018, 11:48 AM
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#17
02-19-2018, 11:53 AM
#18
02-19-2018, 11:58 AM
Tuned
Not completely sure, but I believe they are all the same. I have to leave a little room here for error, however. Hopefully someone else with some extra knowledge on that particular aspect will chime in.
#19
02-19-2018, 12:51 PM
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#20
02-19-2018, 12:59 PM
Tuned
Honestly, I'm not entirely sure on that either. However, the fact that the VCT opening is smaller as you said and I believe you also said the valve cover has no sticker with a bar code on them, correct? Every truck with its original engine should have a bar code sticker on the valve cover with the DOM for the engine. That leads me to believe it has in fact been replaced. Engines built in 2007 and later went to the smaller VCT opening. The larger VCT opening where you could remove the VCT solenoid without removal of the valve covers was exclusive from the 2004-2006 model years. Unless, for some reason, they replaced the valve covers, but is unlikely that is the case here.
#21
02-19-2018, 01:04 PM
Not sure what phase you are in with getting ur 5.4 3v back together? but in my own similar problem...I just physically unplugged the VCT's and my problem disappeared for months.. Drove it to and from work on the highway until I could o the entire system. Its a dead give away that My vcts were not working and oil pressure was too low. It gave me service engine soon light on but was very drivable and good power till I got round to it. Changed my plugs later which were misfiring a bit...dont use the Champions if You do. Use the ford motorcraft...the champions misfired right offf the bat and I have one here where the porcelian insulator was deformed out of the package...it ws loose actully slipped down causing a buck and miss again!
#22
02-20-2018, 10:55 AM
As far as engine identification this may help...my truck is 2006 with a 2008 engine and I noticed that the cop insulators are TAN in color in the 2008. I found out that Ford changed them half way through 2008 to help with sealing the dirt out of there and they also made the cylinder they go down into a bit more Conical to help the seal also. Part of my misfire issue with the original 2006 engine was somebody installed two TAN ones in on cylinders 1 and 6 along with the original black ones on that 5.4 3v. Did not think much of it till I saw them in my 2008 engine.
Not the best indicator you have a replacement engine but may help.
Not the best indicator you have a replacement engine but may help.
#23
04-15-2018, 08:42 PM
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Update
So after determining that the engine wasn't as old as the truck and there wasn't a decent priced used enginen within 200 miles of me, we dug in.
Replaced VCT's, timing chains, tensioners, guides, cam phasers, crankshaft sprocket, seals, etc. You get the idea, we went big, not home. Mind you, the original parts were all still very well intact. No slop, not a single broken guide, not even a chip. Camshaft components checked out fine. Double, triple checked timing and everything before reassembling.
Engine still misses seems to have even become more violent. Getting codes P0022 (reckon I'll have to sell my soul to rid my life of that one) P0171 and P2198. I've read there's some missing issues with the MAF and other components. What would y'all recommend tackling first? Preferebaly in the order of cheapest to not cheap process of eliminations. Clean the MAS, TB? Sticky injectors? How to fix these? You guys have helped me a ton and hoping you guys can dig me out of one more hole 😅
All responses are highly appreciated. Whether right or wrong.
Sidney
Replaced VCT's, timing chains, tensioners, guides, cam phasers, crankshaft sprocket, seals, etc. You get the idea, we went big, not home. Mind you, the original parts were all still very well intact. No slop, not a single broken guide, not even a chip. Camshaft components checked out fine. Double, triple checked timing and everything before reassembling.
Engine still misses seems to have even become more violent. Getting codes P0022 (reckon I'll have to sell my soul to rid my life of that one) P0171 and P2198. I've read there's some missing issues with the MAF and other components. What would y'all recommend tackling first? Preferebaly in the order of cheapest to not cheap process of eliminations. Clean the MAS, TB? Sticky injectors? How to fix these? You guys have helped me a ton and hoping you guys can dig me out of one more hole 😅
All responses are highly appreciated. Whether right or wrong.
Sidney
#24
04-16-2018, 10:33 AM
Tuned
So after determining that the engine wasn't as old as the truck and there wasn't a decent priced used enginen within 200 miles of me, we dug in.
Replaced VCT's, timing chains, tensioners, guides, cam phasers, crankshaft sprocket, seals, etc. You get the idea, we went big, not home. Mind you, the original parts were all still very well intact. No slop, not a single broken guide, not even a chip. Camshaft components checked out fine. Double, triple checked timing and everything before reassembling.
Engine still misses seems to have even become more violent. Getting codes P0022 (reckon I'll have to sell my soul to rid my life of that one) P0171 and P2198. I've read there's some missing issues with the MAF and other components. What would y'all recommend tackling first? Preferebaly in the order of cheapest to not cheap process of eliminations. Clean the MAS, TB? Sticky injectors? How to fix these? You guys have helped me a ton and hoping you guys can dig me out of one more hole 😅
All responses are highly appreciated. Whether right or wrong.
Sidney
Replaced VCT's, timing chains, tensioners, guides, cam phasers, crankshaft sprocket, seals, etc. You get the idea, we went big, not home. Mind you, the original parts were all still very well intact. No slop, not a single broken guide, not even a chip. Camshaft components checked out fine. Double, triple checked timing and everything before reassembling.
Engine still misses seems to have even become more violent. Getting codes P0022 (reckon I'll have to sell my soul to rid my life of that one) P0171 and P2198. I've read there's some missing issues with the MAF and other components. What would y'all recommend tackling first? Preferebaly in the order of cheapest to not cheap process of eliminations. Clean the MAS, TB? Sticky injectors? How to fix these? You guys have helped me a ton and hoping you guys can dig me out of one more hole 😅
All responses are highly appreciated. Whether right or wrong.
Sidney
Since you have a lean code, I would first get a can of starting fluid and spray it all around the intake manifold and throttle body and see if the idle speed increases.
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04-16-2018, 11:48 AM
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#26
04-16-2018, 12:04 PM
Tuned
Have you checked all connections? Vct’s, cam sensors, the whole 9 yards? I would go over it once more and heavily scrutinize every aspect of the engine.
#27
04-16-2018, 12:19 PM
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Yes, I replaced the oil pump with the Mellins brand I believe is how it's spelled.
We went over the engine again as we reinstalled and then and then realized the problem persisted. All connections are as they should be. But will apply some extra scrutiny to it. Aside from those obvious factors.. We're are some alternative issues? FPDM? Vacuum leak? Clogged O2 sensors/cats? Injectors?
There are no misfire on engine bank codes P03+ codes usually related to Plugs. I'm at a loss and now verstaying my welcome with the car I have borrowed for this exploration I've been on with the truck.
Thank you!
We went over the engine again as we reinstalled and then and then realized the problem persisted. All connections are as they should be. But will apply some extra scrutiny to it. Aside from those obvious factors.. We're are some alternative issues? FPDM? Vacuum leak? Clogged O2 sensors/cats? Injectors?
There are no misfire on engine bank codes P03+ codes usually related to Plugs. I'm at a loss and now verstaying my welcome with the car I have borrowed for this exploration I've been on with the truck.
Thank you!
#28
04-16-2018, 12:36 PM
Tuned
What arouses suspicion to me is the P0171 code. That is a lean code for bank 1. Take a can of carb cleaner and spray around the edges of the intake manifold and throttle body and just see if you get any increases in engine RPMs indicating a vacuum leak there.
Second thing I would do would be unplug the injector plugs and examine the lock mechanism to make sure none are broke and the prongs are indeed in good shape.
Third: Double check MAF and make sure it is clean.
The thing that boggles my mind as well is how you say it's still (seemingly) acting up only at hot idle. If it were the fuel pump or FPDM, it should be running rough, regardless of cold or hot engine temps.
One last question I have: Did you pull the oil pan off and inspect the sump screen? I doubt it would be clogged, but still good to be double sure.
Another option would be to have a code reader with the ability to read live data from the O2 sensors. That may be causing the whole problem. If user F150Torqued stops in, he should be able to provide in exact detail what to look for when using a live data reader as I am not good with that particular aspect of diagnostic troubleshooting.
Second thing I would do would be unplug the injector plugs and examine the lock mechanism to make sure none are broke and the prongs are indeed in good shape.
Third: Double check MAF and make sure it is clean.
The thing that boggles my mind as well is how you say it's still (seemingly) acting up only at hot idle. If it were the fuel pump or FPDM, it should be running rough, regardless of cold or hot engine temps.
One last question I have: Did you pull the oil pan off and inspect the sump screen? I doubt it would be clogged, but still good to be double sure.
Another option would be to have a code reader with the ability to read live data from the O2 sensors. That may be causing the whole problem. If user F150Torqued stops in, he should be able to provide in exact detail what to look for when using a live data reader as I am not good with that particular aspect of diagnostic troubleshooting.
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04-17-2018, 06:59 PM
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Thanks again!
#30
04-19-2018, 11:00 AM
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What arouses suspicion to me is the P0171 code. That is a lean code for bank 1. Take a can of carb cleaner and spray around the edges of the intake manifold and throttle body and just see if you get any increases in engine RPMs indicating a vacuum leak there.
Second thing I would do would be unplug the injector plugs and examine the lock mechanism to make sure none are broke and the prongs are indeed in good shape.
Third: Double check MAF and make sure it is clean.
The thing that boggles my mind as well is how you say it's still (seemingly) acting up only at hot idle. If it were the fuel pump or FPDM, it should be running rough, regardless of cold or hot engine temps.
One last question I have: Did you pull the oil pan off and inspect the sump screen? I doubt it would be clogged, but still good to be double sure.
Another option would be to have a code reader with the ability to read live data from the O2 sensors. That may be causing the whole problem. If user F150Torqued stops in, he should be able to provide in exact detail what to look for when using a live data reader as I am not good with that particular aspect of diagnostic troubleshooting.
Second thing I would do would be unplug the injector plugs and examine the lock mechanism to make sure none are broke and the prongs are indeed in good shape.
Third: Double check MAF and make sure it is clean.
The thing that boggles my mind as well is how you say it's still (seemingly) acting up only at hot idle. If it were the fuel pump or FPDM, it should be running rough, regardless of cold or hot engine temps.
One last question I have: Did you pull the oil pan off and inspect the sump screen? I doubt it would be clogged, but still good to be double sure.
Another option would be to have a code reader with the ability to read live data from the O2 sensors. That may be causing the whole problem. If user F150Torqued stops in, he should be able to provide in exact detail what to look for when using a live data reader as I am not good with that particular aspect of diagnostic troubleshooting.
When unplugging the coils one at a time as well as the injectors, the engine function does not change at all. Seems this side of the engine is dead. Could this be the cause of injectors being stuck closed? Plugs gone bad (aside from the fact they aren't kicking the normal codes?) Sorry if this i becoming redundant, just looking for advise.
Thanks again to everyone who took the time to respond!