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so i got me an 85 f250 with the 460 in it, i was wondering if anyone had any experience with head swapping it? how much money did it cost total, what brand. someone told me that if i swapped the heads id have to change he cam, this true? i also thought about sticking with the stock heads but having them ported and polished, anyone know much it would cost to have the heads ported? what would be the power gains from swapping the head vs just porting out the stock heads.
Unless you live in a big city, it will be hard to find anyone that can do the work. Smaller towns may have one guy that is swamped with work and it will be months before he can do it.
If it's one thing that can be universally said about Ford heads, they are lousy for hot rodding. Always keep in the back of your mind the cost of the new Edelbrock aluminum heads. If you end up getting close to their cost, buy them. They are superior in everyway to any type of Ford head.
You will have so much money in converting the stock head to make it adjustable, that an aftermarket head is the cheaper way to go.
The way I see it unless you will be running the RPM up high I don't see the need to P&P the heads.
Maybe a little clean up but that's it. Also unless they have done that head many times before and have flow tested them P&P could end up hurting flow.
Also P&P is nothing but time so what does the shop get per hour and how many hours do you think it will take?
So first thing you will do is a valve job to the stock heads. First they are checked for cracks and hope they are good. What do you think few a valves run not counting guides or seats? It all adds up fast.
I would go with alum heads. They are lighter and you can run a little more timing and not get spark knock. Just check what rockers and push rods you need to run them.
Dave ----
The way I see it unless you will be running the RPM up high I don't see the need to P&P the heads.
Maybe a little clean up but that's it. Also unless they have done that head many times before and have flow tested them P&P could end up hurting flow.
Also P&P is nothing but time so what does the shop get per hour and how many hours do you think it will take?
So first thing you will do is a valve job to the stock heads. First they are checked for cracks and hope they are good. What do you think few a valves run not counting guides or seats? It all adds up fast.
I would go with alum heads. They are lighter and you can run a little more timing and not get spark knock. Just check what rockers and push rods you need to run them.
Dave ----
so do you know if i would have to change the cam out? ik that if i swap heads itll change the compression of the motor. im not sure how that affects the engine. i believe it means you can just run more timing right?
Anyone with some common sense and a little studying can do a good clean up job on the heads, you don't have to have a flow bench and hog them out to clean up casting flash and parting lines, smooth up the rough edges and taper the vavle guide ect. It will wake up almost any engine. Noticeably.
so i got me an 85 f250 with the 460 in it, i was wondering if anyone had any experience with head swapping it? how much money did it cost total, what brand. someone told me that if i swapped the heads id have to change he cam, this true? i also thought about sticking with the stock heads but having them ported and polished, anyone know much it would cost to have the heads ported? what would be the power gains from swapping the head vs just porting out the stock heads.
The best factory head to swap on are the D0VE heads. they have a much better combustion chamber with more quench and will bump compression over a point. But work with what you got.
As for porting the intake needs no work unless you are getting wild. The exhaust on the other is terrible. And will benefit greatly from knocking down all the bumps and humps and removing the thermatic hump.
You have eitehr D3VE or E6TE heads, effectively identical. These heads can make around 700 HP when ported. Porting just takes time, even your first go around you'll be good for 500+ HP. Ford exhaust ports are so bad it's really hard to screw them up. Pay and follow porting instructions here: Re in"Car"nation High Performance, BBF information / porting index
Follow those instructions, it's free horsepower. Freshen teh engine up with flat top pistons, for a budget build you can do KB137 pistons, a straight up double roller chain, and a Comp XE or Lunati Voodoo cam and be in the 400-500 HP ballpark easily for a basically stock rebuild.
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