Block heater troubleshooting
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 781
Likes: 6
From: Edmonton Alberta Canada
Why are people saying it’s a GFI issue when I stated the dealership found the fault in the truck. It was the connector between the plug and the block heater.
Also stated it was tested on 3 separate circuits with several different power cords. This rules out GFI, extension cord, and power quality aka curcuit overloaded.
Also stated it was tested on 3 separate circuits with several different power cords. This rules out GFI, extension cord, and power quality aka curcuit overloaded.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,424
Likes: 12
From: BC Canada
Sleepguy, I am thinking your testing was pretty clear to me. For sure at our temps condensation and moisture are not at all issues. We have the opposite problem, we need humidifcation in our houses and buildings because it is so dry.
Definately the wpquality of electrical connections, the materials, AND how it is assembled are issues. For example, the plug should have a small amount of dielectric grease on the connectors on assembly to prevent bent pins, poor connections. All the plugs with known electrical gremlins line the main harness under the spare tire, all the backup sensor plug issues, a little extra care with no bent or arcing pins and some dielectric grease would prevent a lot of issues.
Glad you got a dealer to get you the part before you got stranded in camp. It sure is a bugger when you have to work this hard to get to use your $90,000 truck as intended.
Definately the wpquality of electrical connections, the materials, AND how it is assembled are issues. For example, the plug should have a small amount of dielectric grease on the connectors on assembly to prevent bent pins, poor connections. All the plugs with known electrical gremlins line the main harness under the spare tire, all the backup sensor plug issues, a little extra care with no bent or arcing pins and some dielectric grease would prevent a lot of issues.
Glad you got a dealer to get you the part before you got stranded in camp. It sure is a bugger when you have to work this hard to get to use your $90,000 truck as intended.
New User
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Ok, As i suspected, its not the GFI, its not the cord, in my case water HAD gotten up into the actual connector, first I had to thaw the ice chucks surrounding the connectors then pulled, dried and cleaned the connectors, put it all back together and wallah, it works.
So, it was NOT a GFI Issue but infant a design flaw issue,
So, it was NOT a GFI Issue but infant a design flaw issue,
New User
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Why are people saying it’s a GFI issue when I stated the dealership found the fault in the truck. It was the connector between the plug and the block heater.
Also stated it was tested on 3 separate circuits with several different power cords. This rules out GFI, extension cord, and power quality aka curcuit overloaded.
Also stated it was tested on 3 separate circuits with several different power cords. This rules out GFI, extension cord, and power quality aka curcuit overloaded.
Because people like to hear their own opinion and voice. I read your post and agree with you. Mine was also a truck issue causing the ground fault, i was able to fix it myself.
More Turbo
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 712
Likes: 1
I am looking for some troubleshooting ideas to get my block heater up and running. Everything I plug it into blows the GFI or circuit.
I have tried two completely different power sources. One at work and at home. I have tried a combined six different outlets.
I have tried four different power cables.
I put a volt meter to the plug coming out of the bumper. It reads 16 ohms between the positive and neutral. Open positive to ground and open neutral to ground.
For three years I have plugged three different trucks into my garage no issues. I am pretty sure I have ruled out all verables outside of the truck.
Any ideas?
I have tried two completely different power sources. One at work and at home. I have tried a combined six different outlets.
I have tried four different power cables.
I put a volt meter to the plug coming out of the bumper. It reads 16 ohms between the positive and neutral. Open positive to ground and open neutral to ground.
For three years I have plugged three different trucks into my garage no issues. I am pretty sure I have ruled out all verables outside of the truck.
Any ideas?
**after posting i read your message about that you had it fixed already**
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 634
Likes: 2
Why are people saying it’s a GFI issue when I stated the dealership found the fault in the truck. It was the connector between the plug and the block heater.
Also stated it was tested on 3 separate circuits with several different power cords. This rules out GFI, extension cord, and power quality aka curcuit overloaded.
Also stated it was tested on 3 separate circuits with several different power cords. This rules out GFI, extension cord, and power quality aka curcuit overloaded.
Cross-Country
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 76
Likes: 2
From: Saskatchewan
My 2017 is doing the same thing. Went to the dealership and they are replacing the block heater under warranty. So maybe there is a new design?? Anyone find a TSB about this issue?
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More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 565
Likes: 1
From: Middletown,NJ
I just went through this issue on my 17 and it was the plug that is right behind the bumper. it connects the cable from the element to the plug in the bumper. Ford has the plug upside down and when water travels on the wireing it runs into the plug base and eventually corroding it out. Mine was filled with water and corrosion, they replaced it under warranty and it did not blow the GFI anymore. I was told the same thing about the GFI to get rid of it but in a wet location you need to have a GFI plug. It worked on my 01 7.3 so why wouldnt it work with my 17??? GFI blow when it detects moisture so its not that its failing its just letting you know there is moisture in the wiring somewhere. Once i got my truck back I pulled all the connections and filled them with dielectric grease to prevent it from happening.
**after posting i read your message about that you had it fixed already**
**after posting i read your message about that you had it fixed already**
When you are referring to the plug that was upside down, I assume you are referring to the plug I circled above and not the the plug that you insert into the electrical outlet?
More Turbo
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 712
Likes: 1
yes you are correct, that is the plug that if you do not use corrosion jelly it will fill with water and corrode the pins. Also my dealer would not replace my plug again when it burnt on the electrical cord side. I come out one morning and the plug is screaming hot and it melted the plug end. They wouldnt replace it since I am deleted because they state since its deleted no parts could be covered under warranty. I know i did that to myself but come on it has nothing to do with the delete. Anyway I bought a new one and everything is perfect now.
To test it just put your ohm meter on one of the legs and touch it to the ground pin you shouldnt get any resistance. Both legs should be OL to the ground pin right on the plug out of your bumper.
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