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I’ve narrowed it down to the point where I can recreate it any time I’m asked. Same thing for me, vehicle has to be warmed up and then sit for an hour or more, does it every single time. I’m confident it’s a fuel pump issue but the dealer refuses to see that as an option. He simply says “everyone blames the fuel pump, it’s not the pump”, and he bases this on the fact that it creates enough pressure while running. I tried to explain a fuel pump with a bad check valve only loses pressure after shutoff typically. At this point I start to wonder if I should receive a portion of his paycheck for the self diagnosis... Anyways, taking it to a second dealer this week to see if they have someone more competent on staff who can check if the pressure is bleeding off after shutoff...
Just got mine back. Fortunately the dealer managed to recreate the issue as I was told the same thing. I even took video of the long cranks and was told that the video didn’t mean anything, that they had to diagnose the problem. They called me a few hours later confirming the issue was even worse than my video clip! They change the fuel pump, the sender and also the spark plugs, oddly. No issues since then. Has started perfectly every time since. 100% solved the problem!
Still taking daily videos of mine starting during lunch, damn thing seems to act better when I started recording it every time, what a pain in the ***. Will compile the video of bad starts for you all and the dealer in a few weeks once I get enough of them
Has anyone else changed spark plugs to resolve this issue? Not confounded with other repairs.
Also, those who’ve had a new fuel pump installed, any update after a few thousand miles?
The hypothesis of this being a fuel pump check valve, pressure drop, problem is interesting. No one complains about a starting problem in the morning after sitting all night. Problem occurs after a few hour heat soak.
No intent to hijack your thread but has anyone considered installing a fuel pressure gauge on the 6.2? It may be a way to develop a history of pressure readings when the hard start happens. Standard practice on diesels but never really heard of anyone doing this on a gas truck...and is it even possible without warranty issues?
Has anyone else changed spark plugs to resolve this issue? Not confounded with other repairs.
Also, those who’ve had a new fuel pump installed, any update after a few thousand miles?
The hypothesis of this being a fuel pump check valve, pressure drop, problem is interesting. No one complains about a starting problem in the morning after sitting all night. Problem occurs after a few hour heat soak.
Dealer installed new fuel pump couple thousand ago. Truck starts prefect now every time. Mine was starting bad every time during the day if it sat more then a hour. If you tried it every 15 minutes it would start fine. Always started good first thing in the morning. So I’m a happy camper again!! Fingers crossed
At this point I think I am about to bite the bullet and replace the fuel pump myself. First dealer has asked me not to bring it back because they cannot figure it out, second dealer has stated I can drop it off but they won’t even look at it for at least 2 weeks and they don’t give loaners. Seems like less hassle to just handle it myself instead of renting a truck for a month...
Okay gents,
Below I have attached the part numbers that were replaced. Total for this job is about $750 (Parts and Labor) for those who are out of warranty. I meant to snap a pick of the work order that the service guys use because it had all the testing they did on it, but alas, I did not.
Anyways, I hope this helps.
Fuel pump and gasket
GF
The part # above is for a fuel pump for a 6.7l diesel
Anyone have the right part #'s to put a new fuel pump on a 17/18 6.2? I'm ready to just install a new one on my own dime myself... **** the dealership.
This is the part number that I pulled from Fords website. I used my vehicles VIN to find it (6.2L gasoline). PFS1231 (9H307). I feel your pain as well, because a customer with warranty should never have to self diagnose a new truck and replace a fuel pump on their dime.... I even made an offer to the STEALership to pay cash for the repair if it did not fix my issue, but they still won’t even look at it again. I have even contacted Ford motor Co at this point with absolutely nothing done, they just said try another dealership. If I try another one it’s going to be Chevrolet for a trade in lol. I know the pumps run 55-62psi, but can anyone tell me how long it’s supposed to hold pressure once the motor is shut off? I am down to 0psi after about 1.5 hours.
Bad fuel pump here too. 2017 CC XLT. Dropped the truck off last week with THIS thread printed out. Took them a whole week for them to tell me they couldn’t duplicate. Stopped by today and told them I was 99% sure it was the fuel pump and said I was also at the point of just buying a pump and installing it myself. About two hours later I get a call saying they were able to replicate the problem and that the fuel pressure was “0”. I have no idea when the pressure reading was taken...just glad now that they seem to be on the right track. You really have to hold the dealers hand on this issue until a TSB is eventually issued. Took them a whole week to actually get to looking at the pump. Be persistent...after this is fixed, then it’s on the vibration when towing issue...see main forum.
This is the part number that I pulled from Fords website. I used my vehicles VIN to find it (6.2L gasoline). PFS1231 (9H307). I feel your pain as well, because a customer with warranty should never have to self diagnose a new truck and replace a fuel pump on their dime.... I even made an offer to the STEALership to pay cash for the repair if it did not fix my issue, but they still won’t even look at it again. I have even contacted Ford motor Co at this point with absolutely nothing done, they just said try another dealership. If I try another one it’s going to be Chevrolet for a trade in lol. I know the pumps run 55-62psi, but can anyone tell me how long it’s supposed to hold pressure once the motor is shut off? I am down to 0psi after about 1.5 hours.
I can't speak with any certainty that residual pressure should be present after shut down in the 6.2... but what is the purpose of the check valve that many of you have mentioned in previous posts? It would [almost] seem that fuel supply to the engine has drained back to the tank leaving an empty fuel line caused by a faulty check valve that is causing the hard starts? I'm following this thread as my 2018 does crank for a little before firing which is atypical of what I'm used to in diesels.WH, just curious; how did you check for fuel pressure?
I am no professional mechanic, however I have a passion for anything with a motor and wheels so I do know a little. The check valve in the pump assembly is a ball valve that closes as the fuel tries to make its return to the tank after shutoff. It’s purpose is primarily to retain fuel pressure in the rail so the pump/regulator do not have to recreate said pressure each time the vehicle is started. I am not sure how long the 6.2L is supposed to hold pressure after shutoff, but my experience with some 4x4 builds and street performance cars has shown that many cars can retain a pressure level for days. A quick bleed off of pressure typically indicates a bad regulator, check valve, or leaking injector.
Because others have suggested the pump and check valve are at fault that is the first place I would personally look.... Typically on older vehicles the fuel pressure is read via a pressure gauge that screws into a schrader valve on the fuel rail or near it. I was unable to locate a valve on the 2017 6.2L (perhaps due to my limited knowledge of vehicles this new), so someone else informed me that the reading could be taken from the OBD port inside of the vehicle (same place you would read a check engine code). I used a diagnostic smartphone app and plug to read the fuel pressure while running and then monitored pressure after shutoff. While my pressure does not immediately go to zero, it does bleed off much quicker than I believe it should.
One other forum member said that they believe the fuel pressure to be dropping from a bad (sticking) check valve and the vapor that remains in the fuel rail is being heated (maybe to a boil?) by the hot motor causing a heat soak issue and hard start.
Although once again im not a pro and could sound quite foolish to someone who is, I think from what I have monitored and what others smarter than I have suggested that this is our issue. Now, to convince the dealer of that....
Right now I have the Service Manager, Shop Foreman, Service/Parts director, and Truck Shop advisor and even Ford Motor Co. all involved with no resolve so far. I just received an email from one of them wanting to meet with me Monday and I hope that will lead to SOMETHING being done. If no resolve I suppose I will start protesting outside the dealership until someone buys my truck back 😂. I have already attempted a buyback through FMC which has stalled as of now because the dealership has communicated to them that the issue was resolved (and all they did was fill it with higher octane fuel). I just parked my truck a little under 2 hours ago and can recreate the issue without fail...
That's good information WH...don't cut yourself short, there have been many non-prof mechanics that have resolved issues that the manf did [could] not resolve.
07-10-2018, 05:58 PM
