Firstly, I want to say thanks to FTE. I've been reading old posts and have found great info.
I bought an 86 F-150 XLT Lariat 4x4 and have been working on it for a few months now and I'm approaching the finish line (I hope!). After Sea Foam engine treatment, I started hearing lifter noise so I took of the intake manifold (again) to inspect the lifters. #4 exhaust lifter was destroyed. A few others were slightly worn so I ordered some new ones. Oil passages are a little smaller and design is different. After all this work, I want to make sure these are correct.
What do you think?

 

What engine? Hydraulic lifters can look different due to just that, requiring oil pressure to pump up. But I also see the top cap is different, do they fit the same?

 

Destroyed how?

 

What engine, and what lifters did you buy?

Just because they look different, doesn't mean they won't work. They may just be a slightly different design

 

What does the bottom of the lifter look like? Pic shows rough edges on the old one which might be a "concaved" bottom. If so, it would be better to also replace the camshaft.

 

Its a 351 Windsor. After some research, I found that the lifter on the right is a "high energy" lifter that is supposed to limit valve float at high rpm's. All stock lifters were the same (Thanks, Numberdummy!) until '96. I found some at Summit Racing. I don't want to mix and match so I'll return the stock ones.
The #4 lifter had worn through the bottom until it couldn't prime up. PO had abused it and left it sitting after electrical problems so I expected problems like this. Anyway, thanks for all the help and info.
Check out my profile page album for pics.

 

My advice is just that, advice.....but, get a new cam. The old one is at least flattened on the #4 exhaust, if not worse. You will most likely end up pulling it down again and replacing the cam and the new lifters if you don't do it right the first time.

I would suspect the timing gear is way past due to be changed also.

 

I suspected something like that, given the side and top did not look terrible. If the bottom has abnormal wear, the corresponding cam lobe is trashed and you need to replace the cam. You cannot just replace the lifters if the cam has abnormal wear, it'll chew them up.

If the lifter failure is internal to the lifter you can gamble and try replacing the failed lifter, use cam assembly lube on the cam, cam breakin (zinc) oil additive and a high zinc oil, break in the cam like normal with fingers crossed. If possible it is best to reuse the lifter body that was broken in to that cam though, if possible, and replace the damaged internal components.

In your case you will need a new cam and lifters and to break them in properly. Break in consists of starting the engine and immediately running it up to 2000-2500 RPM. You will need to maintain 2000-2500 RPM for at least 20 minutes. Verify oil pressure. Set the idle stop screw to maintain 2000 RPM. After this verify no oil or coolant leaks. You can set timing (set it for total mechanical timing, 38* is safe with vacuum advance disconnected). Do occasional slow sweeps from 2000-2500 and back down, a few sweeps to higher RPM (3000-3500) can help ensure adequate lubrication. Monitor temperature and oil pressure. After 20 mins you can return to idle, set timing, adjust idle mixture, etc.

Also note if you put Seafoam in the oil that was likely what wiped out your cam.

Let us know what truck and engine, any modifications to the engine, how you use it, goals, etc. and we can recommend a cam.

 

Not to hi jack, or start arguments, but that's not the first time I've heard mention of sea foam wiping lifters on older vehicles. Care must be taken to the condition of the engine before one tries something such as sea foam to clean it internally. Most likely the vehicle was rode hard and put up wet and the damage was already done at that point. Is that a precaution to someone not knowing the condition or the current engine prior to do a clean sweep? Does it wipe it because of the stripping possibility of oil or zddp to the lifters causing a dry start on cam and lifters? I agree with replacing cam as well, normally the wear is not restricted to the lifters.

 

I was hoping to avoid any major repairs since compression tests were good but now I'm going to get a cam and lifter set. I'd like to try to get the best mpg possible with such a large engine. It's going to be my work truck, hauling light trailer with mower and backup pizza delivery in bad weather. My 84 Ranger doesn't have enough power to haul the trailer and only gets about 15 mpg. It got 16 mpg brand new so I'm not surprised. Any advice on cam set up is greatly appreciated. I won't be doing much highway driving and low-end torque isn't a big priority. I was considering a high volume oil pump just because of the truck's age and mileage (140k). Should I go back to stock cam and lifters or has improved tech made something better? Stock intake and exhaust manifolds, by the way. Thanks to everybody for info and advice.
FTE rocks!
A little advice to new members: Read through the old posts; Chances are whatever question you have has already been asked and answered.

 

deets: 1986 F-150 XLT Lariat 4x4 Edelbrock 1406 carb no EEC Auto (C6) 351 Windsor
Looked as if it was well-cared for early in life, Motorcraft vacuum hoses so I suspect it was Dealer serviced until the PO I got it from almost killed it.

 

Daniel, If your engine is the HO version, the stock cam will work great.


That is my 02 cents worth.


Mine is still running and pulling great with 140k+ miles and I work it pretty hard..

 

Thanks cadunkle and truckertrav...
As I understand it, all HO motors were stock 4bbl(?) so I think it is an HO.
I've shopped around and found a huge difference in pricing on camshaft kits. I know that cheaper usually means exactly that- cheaper. Any advice on a good name brand or where to buy?
Crucialprospect- Maybe we should start a warning thread about engine treatments on older, high-mileage engines. I think the sea foam probably exacerbated or accelerated the existing wear on the lifters. Maybe it thinned out the oil?
It says on the can "quiets noisy lifters"
How does it do that? By killing the motor? LOL...

 

Run diesel oil in your truck. Rotella T5 10/30 or Dello XLE 10/30 will work great. There are more detergents and way more anti-wear additives than today's auto oils. Be sure and get the ones with the CJ listing and not the newest oil that recently came out.

I've been running 15/40 diesel oil in my '87 4.9 and my '94 Dodge V-10 for years, and the inside of the engine is spotless. I use the Delo and Rotella oils I mentioned in the first paragraph in my Grand Marquis with a 4.6, and my wife's Sonata with a 2.4, 4 cylinder. The aluminum heads look like new when I open the oil cap.

 

Run diesel oil in warm climates. If the weather approaches freezing you want something thinner.

My 4.9 with 5w20 in Canadian winter idles with ~45psi warm, but on startup can take about a min to get to 20psi. Diesel oil in the cold is asking for trouble if you're a bit north

If I remember right shell rotella "triple protection" diesel oil has almost as much zinc as break in oil so it should be a great choice if possible