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Bump.
I would like to know the answer to this, too. I want full-length (i.e., all the way back to the rear wheel opening) sliders that are strong enough to jack up the truck from, plus double as access steps (e.g., for the bed).
I haven't ever seen a jackable Superduty slider. I've seen some decent armor, but I wouldn't want all of the trucks weight on them.
Buddy of mine bolted and welded heavy duty ones he fabbed directly to the older frame. Frame bent. Super duties are pretty heavy. But high strength frame steel is pretty ductile.
Has anyone found any true rock sliders for their SD? I'm talking strong enough to jack the truck up off of.
yeah I think fabbing is the only way to go.
The center section of the new frame is pretty beefy. I think a square tube cut in half just big enough to nest under the frame rail then gussets out to a boxed tube would work great.
White Knuckle Off-road and Randy Ellis Design might be your best bet. Otherwise, contact a fab shop and see if they can make you some. A local welder might consider it for a side job too...
Having made some rocksliders for other vehicles, I dont recommend this on the SD. Yes, I own a '19 model. I dont believe the frame is stout enough to support the torque of such rocksliders. The SD frame is very stout in bending lengthwise, but the torque of a rockslider mounted 12-14 inches outboard of the frame is going to bend the unboxed frame. Someone mentioned strengthening the frame, then perhaps....but that's a LOT of fab work which is $$$. And that can have unintended side-effects...like if you box in the frame, your welds will destroy corrosion resistance inside the box, causing frame rot, unless you really go the extra mile to re-treat the inside. This may not be a concern if the truck lives in SoCal or Arizona etc.
I know how to do this kind of fab, and I have the tools to do it, but I recommend against it. If you want a trail rig that needs real rocksliders, buy a Jeep or an old Toy truck etc and drag it to/from the trail with your SD.
no way this will work without significant frame reinforcement. SD is just too heavy...u know why nobody wants to off-road with a Hummer? Cause they always get stuck and nobody can pull them out alone...but I guess if ur building an off-road SD support truck for Baja 1000 then it might be worth it?
The frame is beefy under the cab, 3.5" x 9" x 3/16" wall. Could easily support a slider. But I do think it's a waste of money to try to build a rock crawling diesel SD.
Another option to counter bending the frame is to have the slider attach via a "U" that gets support from the inside, outside and bottom of the frame. I've seen bolt on slider done in this manner that clamp and bolt through the frame. I would imagine welding directly with normal scab plates and having the appropriate number of legs would support the entire truck though. All sliders will deflect when force is applied. Thick walled tube and big gussets will minimize it though.
the slider is supposed to flex and press against the bottom of the body pinch weld, dispersing the weight along the entire body anyways so theres that.
maybe try SDHQ? their name is Super Duty headquarters after all
no way this will work without significant frame reinforcement. SD is just too heavy...u know why nobody wants to off-road with a Hummer? Cause they always get stuck and nobody can pull them out alone...but I guess if ur building an off-road SD support truck for Baja 1000 then it might be worth it?
I'd be nervous to attach anything under the truck that goes from wheel well to wheel well if you do heavy off-roading. If the frame flexes enough couldn't the box contact the slider or running board.
the slider is supposed to flex and press against the bottom of the body pinch weld, dispersing the weight along the entire body anyways so theres that.
Maybe on a mall-crawler jeep. But, on something as heavy as a SD or on something that is built for serious offroad, this isn't ideal. A true slider is stout enough to support the weight of the entire vehicle without any major deflection. My old jeep was on 38's and my current buggy is on 43's -- both took/take blows to the sliders that would wreak havoc on a pinch seam if it ever came into contact. Big hits to DOM tubing result in permanent bends, not flex. You can see how deformed the slider is on my buggy -- imagine what those hits would do to an aluminum pinch seam if the slider was pushing on it. FYI, the sliders on my buggy were fab'd from 1.5", .120 wall DOM to save weight as it doesn't matter how out of shape they get. If I were going to build a set for a $60K+, 7K lb truck, they'd be at least a 2.5", 3/16" square tube up under the pinch seam with a 2", .120 tube kicked out past the tires. But, I'm hard on my stuff.