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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

need a little input please

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Old Jan 12, 2018 | 11:04 AM
  #31  
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Have you tried to reach out to who you got the gear from to see what they say?
Dave - - - -
 
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Old Jan 12, 2018 | 03:37 PM
  #32  
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Thank you for your suggestion I appreciate it. I ordered it online but I have attempted to contact them, so far no response.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2018 | 08:41 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Hogtrapper
Thank you for your suggestion I appreciate it. I ordered it online but I have attempted to contact them, so far no response.
Hogtrapper, I'm not good on transmissions.


Here are a couple pictures that might help.


I didn't know how good a manual you have for your tranny.


Good luck on this. Trav
 
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Old Jan 13, 2018 | 10:27 PM
  #34  
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Thanks a million trav I really appreciate it. Honestly the only manual I have is what I can find on the web LOL. The pictures you have provided are about the best I've found so far. I took a ton of pictures pulling it down but I know I didn't get everything. I do have some reading material bookmarked on the web but not much in the way of pictures. Thank you again I appreciate your input and help.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2018 | 07:50 AM
  #35  
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At least you took yours apart.
I got a T5 for another project and it was partly taken apart and not the right way.
I pulled it apart the rest to see what needed to be replaced, about $1000 worth.
Like you I had to find information on how it came apart & back together. I hope it works as I have yet to drive the car but it does move it in and out of the garage when needed.


As for parts I used The Gear Box is your online source for t56 transmission parts,t5 transmission parts,borg warner t56,muncie transmission,t10 transmission,super t10 transmission,3550 transmission parts,manual transmission parts,t56 transmission overhaul kit, t56 trans
They were a lot of help when I called them so if you do not here back from the other place maybe give them a call to see what they have to say.
Good luck
Dave ----
 
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Old Jan 14, 2018 | 09:46 PM
  #36  
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Thank you Dave I appreciate your help and information. LOL I've always be able to take things apart pretty well. I use to get in trouble as a kid for taking all my toys apart LOL. The problem was putting them back together, never seemed to be able to do that part.

I appreciate the link, I may have to give them a call because I don't think I'm going to hear back from the other place. With all the information you gentlemen have given me I honestly don't think I'll have any problem putting the tranny back together but......you never know and you can never have to much information.

Again I thank you all for taking the time to help me with this project.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2018 | 08:46 PM
  #37  
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Hello gentlemen, I have a little update and a question. Life has kept me super busy but I finally got to do a little work on my truck today. Thank you for your instructions Franklin2 it was a piece of cake removing the rear main seal. I made a seal driver out of a piece of schedule 40 4 inch PVC with a cap on it, it worked great. Installed a new pilot bearing, no problem. I installed the "spacer" plate and held it in place with a couple of bell housing mounting bolts. I got the flywheel in place and this is where I ran into a problem. 2 of the crankshaft bolt holes need a tap ran through them which is not a problem but I'm not sure what size tap it takes, I'm not even sure if these holes are standard or metric. I am going to pick up a tap tomorrow but I'd like to have an idea where to start looking. If any of you gentlemen can point me in the right direction concerning the correct tap I need I would greatly appreciate it. In case I wasn't clear I need to run a tap into the crankshaft bolt holes that are used to bolt the flywheel to the crankshaft. Thank you for any help you can give me.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2018 | 08:00 AM
  #38  
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This link says they are 7/16-20 bolt size.

https://www.cjponyparts.com/arp-flyw...-1995/p/HW912/

It's unusual you need to tap and clean up the threads. I guess you do know the flywheel/flexplate only lines up in one position. One of the bolt holes is just a tiny bit off. It needs to go on that certain way because it has a balance weight on it.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2018 | 08:47 AM
  #39  
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Thank you sir I really appreciate the information/link. I agree it is unusual to need to run a tap in these holes. Without the flywheel in place I can screw 4 of the bolts in with no problem just using my hands. 2 of the bolts I can get started about a turn and a half then if I try to go any deeper I have to use a wrench and I'm not comfortable doing that, makes me think I'm cross threading. I got to inspecting the bolts and there is what appears to be red lock tight on one of them, previous owner I suppose. I'm not sure why only 2 bolts are being difficult IF they were all put in with lock tight, one of the mysteries of working on older truck I guess.

Yes sir I knew about the flywheel having a bolt pattern that was a little off set. When I took it out of the box I thought the bolt pattern looked odd. I got my 6 inch steel ruler out and started measuring from hole to hole and found the difference. So I didn't have to fight it I got under the truck and measured the end of the crank to see which way to turn the flywheel for installation. Figured if I am making sure of things I may as well make sure all the bolts are good to go also, that's when I ran into this issue with the hole threads.

Again I really appreciate your help/input with this. Thank you sir.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2018 | 02:59 PM
  #40  
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Do some research, I want to say some of those flywheel bolts may go all the way through the back of the crankshaft, so you may need some sealer on them, or they may seep oil. I can't remember what engine it was I was taking apart, but I do remember a oil gusher on it after I took one of the bolts out of the crankshaft. Maybe you can get something long and slender and stick it up in the holes to make sure there is a bottom to them. If not, you had better put something on them.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2018 | 10:52 PM
  #41  
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Thank you again Franklin I appreciate you telling me about that. I used a thin screwdriver and tested the hole. All of the holes had a bottom in them so there shouldn't be any oil leaks.

I bought a 7/16ths 20 tap today and chased the threads. Once I turned the tap in about 3 or 4 thread it spun on in with ease. When I took it out of the hole it had something on it I am guessing to be lock tight residue. After tapping those 2 holes all the bolts went in with no problem and now the flywheel is installed and torqued down with the new clutch and pressure plate.

I am to the point now that it's time to put the tranny back together and install it. Now for mystery I have discovered.

I pulled the tranny because i thought the reverse idler gear was bad. The reason I thought it was bad was because I could put the truck in reverse with a load on it and it wouldn't move. When I let the clutch out to back up it sounded like somebody was shooting an uzi machine gun and the truck wouldn't move. I've had the front hubs strip out when they were locked in and they sounded the same way. Another reason I thought it was the reverse idler gear is because when I put the tranny in first....or second gear to go forward, with the same load, the truck/tranny worked perfect with no sound at all. Once I tore the tranny down there is nothing wrong with the reverse idler gear and the bottom of the tranny housing/case was clean as a pin, no metal chips or gear teeth anywhere.

For a review, the truck is a 1985 F250 351W NP435 tranny with the transfer case married to the tranny and Dana 44 differentials.

So gentlemen do you have any suggestions on where I need to look for this problem? Since I have the tranny torn down and have all new bearing and seals and gaskets it is getting a complete rebuild. I am also going to go through the transfer case and install all the "normal" rebuild parts, seals, bearings, gaskets, and probably a new chain and possibly the gears.

I am not looking to replace all the shafts and gears in both the tranny and the transfer case but if a shaft has bad splines then it will get replaced of course. If the slip joint on the drive shaft is bad then again it gets replaced. I have visually inspected the shafts and splines and they look good but this is my first ever tranny rebuild so what do I know. Is there something specific I should pay extra attention to? Is there a splined shaft somewhere in this setup that is a "weak" link? I am lost as to finding exactly what the problem or where I should look to find it. Any and all help, input, suggestions, and guidance is greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance gentlemen for taking the time to read this post and giving me advice.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2018 | 08:22 AM
  #42  
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If you were not in 4x4, I would take a close look at the transfer case as I was going through it. I suspect your problem might be in there since it's not in the tranny.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2018 | 01:58 PM
  #43  
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Thank you Franklin I really appreciate you helping me. This is my first time to undertake this type of project so I'll gladly take all the help I can get. Anything in particular I need to pay extra attention to? Again I really appreciate all your help sir.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2018 | 03:46 PM
  #44  
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I have never had one apart. I do know some models tend to have oil leaks, and when they run dry they tend to get hot. There are some plastic pieces in the shift assembly inside the transfer case that can melt and not let the transfer case fully engage. That's all I know, I haven't ever had one apart. The one guy I know that had this problem, he had to be careful, when he parked on a hill, the trucks transfer case could pop out of gear and the truck would start rolling. And this was when he was in 2wd.

P.S. If you have a np208 transfer case, I saw some videos on youtube about working on it.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2018 | 05:37 PM
  #45  
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Thank you Franklin I really appreciate all your help. I plan to report back with my findings, especially if I find something interesting or unusual.
 
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