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that is what I meant when I said how "exact" does someone want to be, but like you I tried a batch and found the one that is the best fit for my F350 DRW and it stays with the 7/8" I use for the trailer and the torque wrench.
Thanks for all the replies. I used a 21mm socket and it fit perfectly. Let me tell you, those tires are heavy! Reprogrammed the TPMS per the manual too.
So where do you guys find a 21mm, 165 ft./lbs., 1/2" drive torque stick? All that I've found stop at 150 ft./lbs. The aforementioned "grunt and fart" technique isn't really effective when using an impact wrench.
I always carry a breaker bar and socket to fit in each vehicle. after buying the 250 I pulled the front hub cap thingy and checked the socket. just for grins I loosened one nut. it was nowhere close to 165lb. 75lb at most. I guess I need to break out the torque wrench and check them all.
I always carry a breaker bar and socket to fit in each vehicle. after buying the 250 I pulled the front hub cap thingy and checked the socket. just for grins I loosened one nut. it was nowhere close to 165lb. 75lb at most. I guess I need to break out the torque wrench and check them all.
I noticed this too on my 350 when I was installing my wheel locks, probably about 75 ft./lbs. My Craftsman Digi-tork only goes up to 150 ft./lbs., which is why I was asking about torque sticks with an impact wrench. What brand of torque wrench do you use?
Last edited by 12Farmer; 10-21-2018 at 09:11 PM.
Reason: Text correction
A deep socket and a short 3" - 4" extension is nice for when using a torque wrench. just the socket your hand end up close to the tire or something.
An impact gun is makes it go quicker too. Might need a mallet to get the wheel off the hub. One of mine took more than a kick to get it off when i rotated the tires this past weekend.
A couple of jack stands and a floor jack so you can get all the tires off the ground.
A back brace if you are going to be lifting the tires. A pry bar eases the lifting chore, but take a little skill to use.
Also whoever mentioned redoing the TPMS, I forgot to do that part.
Nicely said! I am a field service heavy duty mechanic, and I was amazed with how many vehicles that I saw this past summer that were dropped onto ground. The way how I see it is if you are spending good money on trucks like these, and if you wish to rotate your own tires, then buy a decent torque wrench.
Might need a mallet to get the wheel off the hub. One of mine took more than a kick to get it off when i rotated the tires this past weekend.
A few of us have been using a thinly spread bit of anti-seize compound between the wheel and the hub/disk. So far, I have no problem getting my wheels off. Since I rotate mine every 5,000 miles it may be too short of an interval for the wheel to get good and stuck.
A few of us have been using a thinly spread bit of anti-seize compound between the wheel and the hub/disk. So far, I have no problem getting my wheels off. Since I rotate mine every 5,000 miles it may be too short of an interval for the wheel to get good and stuck.
Good suggestion, I though of putting anti-seize on the studs (I didn't, it was getting dark and I was in a rush). But did not think of putting it on the hub too.
Good suggestion, I though of putting anti-seize on the studs (I didn't, it was getting dark and I was in a rush). But did not think of putting it on the hub too.
No, don't put anti-seize on the studs. That will change the amount of torque needed on the lug nuts. You can find opinions both ways on this (use it, don't use it). Here's what the Ford Owner's Manual has to say:
On all two-piece flat wheel nuts, apply one drop of motor oil between the flat washer and the nut. Do not apply motor oil to the wheel nut threads or the wheel stud threads.
12-21-2017, 09:13 PM
