Starting / Running Intermittent Problem
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5th Wheeling
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
@vjsimone: Yes very fragile.
They are dry and brittle.
Plus the fact that it was 32 degrees yesterday did not help.
As I was changing the plugs I could hear them breaking.
I'm ordering silicone vacuum line as we speak so I can rid myself of this crap.
They are dry and brittle.
Plus the fact that it was 32 degrees yesterday did not help.
As I was changing the plugs I could hear them breaking.
I'm ordering silicone vacuum line as we speak so I can rid myself of this crap.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3,177
Likes: 15
From: Somewhere n North America
If your EVP was previously replaced with an aftermarket sensor, the shaft could be ever-so-too-short.
Temporarily epoxy a piece of a matchbook cover to the tip of the shaft and retest. (Basically extending the shaft length.)
Temporarily epoxy a piece of a matchbook cover to the tip of the shaft and retest. (Basically extending the shaft length.)
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3,177
Likes: 15
From: Somewhere n North America
If the line to your Thermactor is faulty, it could be the cause of your #44 Code.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
I agree about the code 44.
That's what led me to a thread on another forum about getting rid of the hard plastic lines.
I'm not sure if the EVP is a replacement or not, I'll check tonight.
The EGR looks good but????
Here's the only pic I have of that side of the engine.
That's what led me to a thread on another forum about getting rid of the hard plastic lines.
I'm not sure if the EVP is a replacement or not, I'll check tonight.
The EGR looks good but????
Here's the only pic I have of that side of the engine.
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 582
Likes: 5
From: New Orleans United States
Check that vacuum canister on the passenger fender well that look like a coffee can. It can get pin holes on the bottom by the mounting bracket. Mine was sound, but the grommet going into the end of the canister was dried out and hard, not letting it seal. Some gasket maker smeared all over it and the canister to make it hold vacuum fixed my EGR codes, along with changing the hoses like you are already doing.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 765
Likes: 1
Have you removed the EGR valve and inspected it? Old truck like that will have a TON of carbon build up. Not suggesting it's causing any problems you're writing about but removing carbon from that port where the valve bolts on will certainly help, just don't get that crap down the intake.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
I hate when threads don't get closed out, so I figured I'd close this one out.
I re-cleared all codes and fixed the one broken plastic vacuum line.
Took it for a nice long drive.
Ran like a champ.
Posted the truck on Craigslist and sold it.
I liked the truck but I haven't the time nor the desire to be chasing sensors, valves and other emissions related BS.
The search is on for a pre-emissions truck.
Anyway, thanks for the help on this thread.
I re-cleared all codes and fixed the one broken plastic vacuum line.
Took it for a nice long drive.
Ran like a champ.
Posted the truck on Craigslist and sold it.
I liked the truck but I haven't the time nor the desire to be chasing sensors, valves and other emissions related BS.
The search is on for a pre-emissions truck.
Anyway, thanks for the help on this thread.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3,177
Likes: 15
From: Somewhere n North America
Thanks for closing it out, I hate that as well.
EFI troubleshooting is not for everyone, it’s time consuming, tedious and quite the learning curve from the pre 80’s models.
Got to luv points & a condenser with vacuum advance… but you still have to deal with the EGR & vacuum lines…..
EFI troubleshooting is not for everyone, it’s time consuming, tedious and quite the learning curve from the pre 80’s models.
Got to luv points & a condenser with vacuum advance… but you still have to deal with the EGR & vacuum lines…..
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