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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Frame prep question(s)

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Old Dec 16, 2017 | 11:07 AM
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Frame prep question(s)

This is my first time doing a restoration from the frame up (on a 55). On the frame, I first thought I would take the thing right down to the bare metal with a wire wheel. On some parts of the frame, this was pretty easy. But on most of it, I'm finding a pretty thick layer of black paint that takes forever to get through down to the bare metal.

Should I even bother trying to remove it? Or should I just clean/scuff it up with the wire wheel? I know the most important thing is to get all the loose crap, which is mostly dirt (not much rust on this frame), but wanted to see what the experts say.

Any insight is greatly appreciated.

Scott
 
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Old Dec 16, 2017 | 11:16 AM
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From my experience I’d suggest having the frame powder coated. You get better coverage and tends to last longer than paint.
Ive has a couple done along with loose parts control arms/axles etc. runs me $750 and I don’t need to do any prep. Just strip down and drop off and pick up.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2017 | 11:45 AM
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What kind of build: Show, Driver, Restoration?
 
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Old Dec 16, 2017 | 11:46 AM
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It would need to be blasted in any case , but of course depends on your intentions . If you are only worried about future rust not show quality get the loose stuff off and use one of the many different rust inhibitors . The nicer you want it the more work - money .
 
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Old Dec 16, 2017 | 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by FortyNiner
What kind of build: Show, Driver, Restoration?
More of a restoration/summer driver.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2017 | 12:47 PM
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It sounds like your frame has been worked previously. If the paint has the kind of adhesion you described, and the underlying metal looks like it was prepped properly, I would just clean and scuff before repainting. Others will have their own opinions and valid reasons, of course. Mine is the 'good enuf' route.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2017 | 02:51 PM
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Also consider the time you’ve spent to remove every nut and bolt. IMO $750+/- is worth having it powder coated so it will last years without future rust.
Build to last, not to get by.
Always think long term.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2017 | 03:10 PM
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I wire wheeled this down to bare metal for the most part...loose paint dirt grease what ever.....not all comes off...... then I used a scotch bride pad and did the whole frame....I used brown rustoleum primer then I used semigloss black paint and did the frame...spray cans.....this works great and is cost effective....
 
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Old Dec 16, 2017 | 03:16 PM
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I also want to add I did the same exact thing to my 51 when I restored that in 1994..... to this day it looks great underneath!!!....again spray cans!!!!....... I also have a 56 I did with a spray gun the frame looks good as well.......the main thing is the time and effort you put into the prep on the frame....wire wheel...scotch bright ...degreasing the same.....2 trucks with spray cans....and 1 with spray gun...all look equally good....powder coated is nice but it would have been more money...
 
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Old Dec 16, 2017 | 03:20 PM
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As said it all depends on what you want in the end.
I see if using PC the frame will be like car show ready and the rest of the "build" will then have to match so talking sand blasting all the other parts before they get worked over and the $$ add up.


My 81 F100 Flare side I want a nice driver to run trash to the dump or to home depot for things, it will be used.
So I striped it down to the frame, degreased, wired brushed it, treated the rust with acid to convert it then spray gun painted it with black paint from Tractor Supply with hardner.

All the suspension parts were done the same way before being installed.

It has gotten a little dirty doing the body work but a good washing it should clean up good.


Again a nice looking driver / weekend work truck is what I want from it.
Dave ----
 
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Old Dec 16, 2017 | 04:56 PM
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Media Blasted and Powder Coated for $450 at a local shop. All other parts, other than wheels, I have been doing myself. I figured since I have come this far, I might as well do this. Plus, the frame is the back bone of the truck, you will never get another chance! Bottom line......it's what your conscience can live with. You want no regrets


 
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Old Dec 16, 2017 | 05:10 PM
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This is a thread HIJACK so I will apologize up front. While anyone has the frame (53 54 55 56 maybe older ones ) sitting bare can you find the vin/serial number on the passenger side in front of the cab mount or anywhere else on the frame and can you take a pic of it so that I can see for myself. I cannot find any. Once again I apologize for the hijack. Dave your frame looks great. Is that silver tab on the passenger side a vin number ?

Thank You
 
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Old Dec 16, 2017 | 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by artscott61
This is a thread HIJACK so I will apologize up front. While anyone has the frame (53 54 55 56 maybe older ones ) sitting bare can you find the vin/serial number on the passenger side in front of the cab mount or anywhere else on the frame and can you take a pic of it so that I can see for myself. I cannot find any. Once again I apologize for the hijack. Dave your frame looks great. Is that silver tab on the passenger side a vin number ?
Thank You
LOL



VIN # Right side frame of my F350. The cross member has the rear engine mounts.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2017 | 05:52 PM
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There 3M bristle discs are fantastic for stripping trash of the frame. I regularly use the white ones for gasket removal. The purple ones are bodyman discs.

https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/3m-...6-p-14336.aspx
 
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Old Dec 16, 2017 | 11:15 PM
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To continue the hijack..... I have never seen the data numbers on the frame on my 54 which I have owned since 1977 nor my 55 which I bought in spring 2016. Can you see them by looking in the engine bay or is the passenger side inner fender in the way?
 
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