Lighting issue
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 250
Likes: 5
Lighting issue
Hi to all
I could use some guidance. I have owned many old fords and always have the same issue with the original wiring harness. Most have been cut into as well as being brittle from 40 plus years of service. I have a 78 bronco that I am trying to get to pass PA state inspection and the lights do not work. I have a front parking light that is out and a rear reverse light on the same side that is out. The socket is getting power when I use a test light and the bulb is new, but will not come on. Before I go and put a new socket in, could it be a ground strap issue?
I could use some guidance. I have owned many old fords and always have the same issue with the original wiring harness. Most have been cut into as well as being brittle from 40 plus years of service. I have a 78 bronco that I am trying to get to pass PA state inspection and the lights do not work. I have a front parking light that is out and a rear reverse light on the same side that is out. The socket is getting power when I use a test light and the bulb is new, but will not come on. Before I go and put a new socket in, could it be a ground strap issue?
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
Likes: 12
From: Gateway to the West
Your problem sounds like you have a current flow problem You might have enough getting to the socket to glow a test light but if there is corrosion or there are loose connections there won't be enough amperage to get the actual lamps to light. Cleaning connections both positive and negative would be the place to start. In short, sure, check the ground but if the ground is poor the positive could be as well.
(I chased a no-start condition for a week before I exhausted every option and realized that the positive cable from the battery to the starter had corroded from the INSIDE OUT! There were about three strands in the #6 cable left to conduct the full starting amperage from the battery... yeah, I got a solid 13.89 VDC reading from the meter... but nowhere near enough amperage through those three strands of copper to turn over the truck.)
(I chased a no-start condition for a week before I exhausted every option and realized that the positive cable from the battery to the starter had corroded from the INSIDE OUT! There were about three strands in the #6 cable left to conduct the full starting amperage from the battery... yeah, I got a solid 13.89 VDC reading from the meter... but nowhere near enough amperage through those three strands of copper to turn over the truck.)
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