Salutations. I have a 99 Ranger 4.0 4x4. Problem- I insert the key the chime goes off 3-4x then nothing. No power, no chime. Turn the key, nothing at all. This is an ongoing problem with this trk. I suspect the passive alarm sys. It does it just out of the blue. Suggestions? Fixes? Tnx for any help.

 

Welcome to FTE.

Since everything seems to be going dead, I assume no dash warning lights lit & winking out as the systems go through their self check. If so, raise the hood & check the power distribution box/drivers side fender/firewall location & check/wiggle/thump the computer power relay & see if it'll wake up. If so, remove the relay & check it's pins/sockets for corrosion, bent pins, spread sockets/loose fit. If ok, try swapping the ECM power relay with a like one not needed to run the engine & see if the problem remains clear, if so replace the old power relay. They are a common problem part such that older Ranger owners are known to carry a couple of spares in the glove box along with fuses!!! lol
If all that checks out ok, give the B+/B- connections at the battery posts a wiggle test & or remove & clean the posts & cable clamp. Because we only have 12 volts or so to work with, all connections need to be clean, bright & tight.
If all that checks out ok, run this puppy by your favorite auto parts store for their under load electrical system check-up, to see how the alternator, battery & cables check out.

If all that checks out ok, use, come by, or borrow the inexpensive ELM327 scan tool & load FORScan diagnostic software on the viewing device of your choice, as discussed here https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-scantool.html & have it scan the vehicle computer/controllers for trouble code clues & post All code Numbers it finds. Some thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.

 

Roger. Did the relays, fuses n batt. wires. Disconnected both for a few mins. Reconnected, got power now but still no crank.

 

Is the Theft Light flashing or glowing steadily when you have these episodes? Have you tried using the spare key to see if that makes a difference? The transceiver which picks up signal from chipped key could have failed.

 

Did you happen to forget & leave the ignition switch on when the power failed, or when you did the battery & relay disconnect inspections? If so, you might have triggered the anti-theft system.

 

VI believe the theft light was flashing. Now that I diconnected tbe batt I have power now but no cranking. Did not leave the ign switch on during my inspections. I did try the spare key with the same results. I do hear what sounds like a relay clicking either under the dash or under the glove box.

 

Do you have Domelight's\headlights? I know it's a dumb question but my wife asked a very similar question as you the other day and the battery was dead on her Expedition.

 

There is a power delay relay mounted on a metal bayonet, in the metal dash frame just to the drivers side of the glove box door. You can see it by laying in the passenger side foot well & looking up. the relay is in a plastic case that snaps onto a metal bayonet sticking up from the metal frame. This delay relay allows the power windows to be run up after the ignition switch is turned off, Before we open a door, which kills power to the relay. So if power is coming & going, you may be hearing it reacting.

If the dash "Theft" light is blinking, the system has been triggered, so it'll kill the starter circuit. The ELM scan tool running FORScan can also query the anti-theft system for trouble code clues.

 

Roger. Tbe batt is fully charged. I do not posess a ELM scan tool. I just have a Harbor Freight OBDII scanner. This problem just started (again) the other day.

 

Seeing as how the problem is intermittent, begin with the basics & make sure the battery posts & cable clamps are clean, bright & tight, same with the B+ cable connections to the power distribution box, engine & body battery ground cables & connections, they All need to be clean bright & tight.

Then power everything on & give all of them a wiggle test, as you could have a corroded molded on cable end lug, or battery end clamp, as I once did on my Renault Alliance B+ cable. The wire strands were corroded, out of sight under the insulation, where the strands made connection inside the molded on battery B+ cable post clamp. A under load voltage drop test found the no crank problem. New B+ cable put things right & years later they had a Cable recall....too late for me though!!!! lol

SO, if the dash lights up for it's self test, but everything winks out when you apply a heavy electrical load, like trying to crank the engine, or things like turning the head lights, or blower motor, or cigar lighter on & they don't, or barely work, then put a faulty high resistance connection, or a faulty battery internal connection on the suspect list.

So break out your multi-meter & perform some under load voltage drop tests on the suspects to confirm the wiggle test findings. Begin across the battery posts & work your way out measuring end to end along the battery B+ & B- cable runs & across their connections. Wiggle the cables while your doing the voltage drop tests & let us know what you find.

If no joy, come by the ELM scan tool & see if it can find some trouble code clues that'll help focus your trouble shoot & post All code Numbers.
If your using the Harbor Freight "code reader" it's likely able to query only the engine computer/controller, the ELM running FORScan can look into All of the vehicle computer/controllers for clues.

 

Roger. Will do all the above first thing in the AM. Will post my findings when done. Tnx again. I owe you a beer.��

 

Dang, I keep forgetting to ask if this is Manual, or Automatic tranny????

 

Automatic. 4.0 4x4 XLT.

 

Found this info the next time the theft light starts flashing to help diagnose:

Engine does not start: LED flashes rapidly Leave ignition on until the LED starts to flash a 2 digit code: (sequence- pause-sequence)
Check the following codes:
Code flashes:
1:3 Key code not received. Is key screened by other keys or objects? Try different key: if okay then first key is faulty. If not go to main dealer
1:4 Partial code only received. Try again. If not okay use different key. If not go to main dealer
1:5 Key not programmed into PATS. Program key as above using master
1:6 Faulty link between PATS module and EECV Go to dealer .

 

May be a dumb question, Have you tried starting the truck in neutral with your foot on the brake?