Any help would be appreciated.
#47
It looks alright, a lil dirty and wet where fuel from the bowl got on it. Can't see any bare spots in the wire. The heater part of it is deff shot I'd say, the element is loose and the 3 round metal things are laying in the bottoom of the bowl. I'm going to unplug it from inside the bowl tomorrow, I doubt it gets cold enough around here to really need the heater.
#49
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
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Good point Mark has about making sure the fuel bowl heater plug/harness isn't shorting out. Tie it up with a zip tie or something, don't let it lay in a puddle of water, fuel, deer urine, or whatever else collects in the valleys
If the CPS isn't doing its job correctly, these are exactly the kinds of behavior you can expect. The new one coming should either clear up your troubles, or at least get out of the way so you can find any other issues.
Many times one failure can mask others.
But if you had fueling issues and the wrong CPS and your truck ran "at all" before, it should do quite well once you get this part handled
#50
It looks alright, a lil dirty and wet where fuel from the bowl got on it. Can't see any bare spots in the wire. The heater part of it is deff shot I'd say, the element is loose and the 3 round metal things are laying in the bottoom of the bowl. I'm going to unplug it from inside the bowl tomorrow, I doubt it gets cold enough around here to really need the heater.
If you have unplugged the connection from the back of the fuel bowl.... No power gets to the heating element inside the bowl... No one 'needs' the 'fuel bowl heater' unless you live in the Artic Circle.... REAL COLD for a LONG TIME... this does not happen in the lower 48 states...
Have you checked Fuse #30? If you are getting the 'Water in Fuel' light, when it is unplugged from the fuel bowl.... then the 'problem' is NOT the Fuel Bowl or the heating element, or fuel bowl water sensor. It may seen that the problem is from the disconnected connection wires to the fuse. (imo) You have eliminated the question of 'problems' with the fuel bowl.. (keep it unplugged) do not go back to that and look else where for the running problem.
#51
#53
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You *can* get them from the dealer, but you want this one: Motorcraft Cam Position Sensor CPS 94-03
#1 sensitive item on our trucks
#54
#55
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Glad we caught it before you put it in. It is commonly referred to as "purple" IIRC.
#56
I would not throw away the CPS that is in your truck. imo it may not be bad at all and just 'causing' the truck to hic-up. Take the CPS out and clean it up and clean the connections. Have a sealant to use, Because if any moisture get in the connections and into where it goes into the block, it will 'mess with' the running of the truck and may even shut it down. I found this out when I drove through a large water puddle and water sprayed the front. Shut the truck off like I used the key.... Fired right back up and ran fine. Use some electric grease at the connections to keep them water tight. Give that a shot before putting in the new one.
#57
Thanks Brother. I got some electric grease. When the rain lets up I'll take the old one out and make sure everything is cleaned up and put this fancy new motorcraft one back in and hang on to the old one just in case. I know the end that goes in the block of the old one is much larger than the new one. It's just some no name knockoff from who knows where.
#58
Ok. So. I got the CPS in, I unhooked the moates chip, I've changed the oil and I also unhooked the battery cables to rest the computer. I ran for 3 hours around town after all that and it did great, idled a little rough but did good. If I was to shut it off it would have to set for at Least about 10 mins before it would start back, but other than that no stalling. The next day, it took about 5-7 seconds of cranking to start, which is normal for this truck. Then after it idled for awhile to warm up a bit went to back up and it stalled... Drove down the road a ways and went tin the gas station came out and went to back up aaaand, yep, stalled again. Stalled 3 or 4 times yesterday and every time was In reverse. So frustrating. Anyone in the market for a 7.3!
#59
Lucas...I'm reaching here but since this happens every time in Reverse maybe Mark Kovalsky has some insight. Maybe something's going on with the transmission that's causing the truck to stall?? Like I said, I'm reaching but...
Maybe put everything you've done so far in one post, so it's not all spread out in the thread.
Maybe put everything you've done so far in one post, so it's not all spread out in the thread.
#60
Good point. I got the truck and it had a busted flywheel. Got that fixed and then it started stalling, sometimes in reverse sometimes just idling. Replaced the CPS with a aftermarket one and didn't seem to make no diff.
Replaced fuel filter and one night it stalled and wouldnt start back. Replaced the IPR, changed the fuel filterTurns out it wasnt getting fuel to the bowl. Dropped the tank did the hutch mod and added a pre pump fuel filter. Had to install it sideways for clearance issues. Added new lines.
Started getting fuel to the bowl and got the truck started, was doing good, took it for a short drive and stalled pulling back in to the driveway. Got a few diff codes this time when it stalled.
P1000 - OBD drive cycle not complete (n/a)
P0275 - Cylinder 5 contribution/balance fault
P1670 - EF signal not detected
P1690 - Wastegate Control Solenoid
It would stall every couple minutes this go around. Bought a new motorcraft CPS (purple one) and got it installed and reset the computer by unplugging battery cables while it was running for about 5 mins. Was able to drive the truck around town after all that for a few hours with no stalling. Only issue besides taking 5-7 seconds to start and kinda rough ideling was if I shut it off id have to wait 10+ minutes before it would restart.
The following day went out and it started up like normal, went to back up and stall. Fired back up with no delay this time. Drove maybe 10 mins, came out from store and went to back up and stall. It doesn' stall as soon as I put it in reverse, it' usually when I actually go to back up. And it doesn't stall everytime i put it in reverse either.
Sorry if this post seems all over the place, thats how this truck makes me feel lol. It never seems to act the same way 2 days in a row.. Ive also replaced the alternator through out the deal.
Replaced fuel filter and one night it stalled and wouldnt start back. Replaced the IPR, changed the fuel filterTurns out it wasnt getting fuel to the bowl. Dropped the tank did the hutch mod and added a pre pump fuel filter. Had to install it sideways for clearance issues. Added new lines.
Started getting fuel to the bowl and got the truck started, was doing good, took it for a short drive and stalled pulling back in to the driveway. Got a few diff codes this time when it stalled.
P1000 - OBD drive cycle not complete (n/a)
P0275 - Cylinder 5 contribution/balance fault
P1670 - EF signal not detected
P1690 - Wastegate Control Solenoid
It would stall every couple minutes this go around. Bought a new motorcraft CPS (purple one) and got it installed and reset the computer by unplugging battery cables while it was running for about 5 mins. Was able to drive the truck around town after all that for a few hours with no stalling. Only issue besides taking 5-7 seconds to start and kinda rough ideling was if I shut it off id have to wait 10+ minutes before it would restart.
The following day went out and it started up like normal, went to back up and stall. Fired back up with no delay this time. Drove maybe 10 mins, came out from store and went to back up and stall. It doesn' stall as soon as I put it in reverse, it' usually when I actually go to back up. And it doesn't stall everytime i put it in reverse either.
Sorry if this post seems all over the place, thats how this truck makes me feel lol. It never seems to act the same way 2 days in a row.. Ive also replaced the alternator through out the deal.