Is the EGR drawn from the crossover under the carb? Maybe this little valve was to help redirect exhaust to the EGR by not allowing it to crossover under certain conditions?...Just thinking out loud.

 

Sorry no I don't think it's an EGR valve after further review. I'm used to thinking anything with a vacuum port and the other end covered in soot is an EGR valve.

 

That's load hate to say it. I'v blocked them off in basically everything I have hopped up they get blocked off. Most all aftermarket intake manifolds have the cross over blocked off excepting emissions compliant ones same goes for aftermarket cylinder heads.

Ford built these systems to provide smooth operation and with emissions in mind. They were not designed for performance, or even maximum fuel efficiency in mind.

Modifying these systems with out making adjustments elsewhere will inevitably lead to issues, and this is the mistake people make ,and then make statements like the above.

The only reason for the exhaust cross over was to aid in fuel vaporization on a cold engine to shorten the time till it ran smooth and reduce the time the choke was needed a consideration on emissions engines.

Block it off and get the HP an economy advantages of not dumping exhaust heat in to the intake charge.

 

LOL No kidding I can relate to that.

 

Nope As the EGR gases are drawn in by manifold vacuum. Pretty sure it was there to restrict flow in the cross over possibly to help mitigate hot soak issues.
The natural impulses of the exhaust will cause gases to flow between banks through the intake..

Do not pitch this stuff. As it will be gold to some individual stuck in area where they are forced to be emissions complaint.

 

Ford calls it an Intake Manifold Heat Control Valve and there were apparently several versions of it;
looks to have been installed on the 302 & 351W only.

It's listed in several Calibration Parts Lists which I don't care to wade through at the moment.

 

Yeah, I'm being careful not to destroy anything I'm removing as some parts will be useful to others. The three on the tree column parts will be useful to somebody (I think ctubutis mentioned this to me when I first arrived here), and I'll save all of the 302 parts as well.

Thanks for the info ctubutis, that's great. Looks like the heat control valve only showed up in 1983. I'm learning all kinds of new stuff this weekend.

 

Whoa there, Nelly.

The parts book book says:

1983/87 E-F100/250/Bronco with the 302 & 4V carb
1984/87 E-F100/250/Bronco with the 351W & 4V carb





I made the comment about there being multiple varieties - even though they're all replaced with a single variant - because of all the different suffixes they could be marked with from the factory, e.g.

E3TE-9G464-F1A or -F2A or -F1B or -F1C.




Just don't want to create confusion or misinformation in anybody's mind.

 

Oh, sorry...I didn't word that correctly. I didn't mean that 1983 was the only year, I meant that the valve didn't show up until 1983. My truck is an '84 after all. I was thinking correctly, I just didn't word it correctly.

 

Those parts books are weird. I don't think I have ever seen a stock 80-86 pickup with a 302 and a 4bbl carb. 351w yes, 302, no.

 

Hey guys,

Back to the 302 maintenance/service...something I've been meaning to ask is, are there any bolts that should be replaced on these engines? Head bolts for example? Or can I re-use everything?>

 

None of the bolts used on the motor in this era are toque to yeild. So they can be reused if they are in good condition.

If swapping to AL heads then studs would be an advisable upgrade. As bolts will chew up the heads and potentially give false torque readings.

 

Thanks Matt,
I've had diesel Volkswagens for quite a few years, and everything on them is TTY, so that's what I'm used to. It almost feels weird to re-use old head bolts.

I'm not 100% sure what I'm doing with cylinder heads yet, but that's good to know on the studs/bolts. I've been up and down on a head swap. I've more or less maintained all along that I thought aluminum heads would be a waste of money on this truck, for what I'm going to use it for. I've turned down a set of GT40 heads, and a set of GT40P's. The E7 heads still seem to be fairly common on the cheapo end of the scale. I guess I can thank the Mustang crowd for these parts still being around.
A set of E7 heads are cheap and would bring my compression ratio into the 1990's, but it seems by today's standards everybody says they're boat anchors. To get better flow, you either have to port the E7's, or buy GT40's or equivalent/better aluminum heads. So then it seems like I'm getting carried away on a truck that will mostly be living between idle and 3500 rpm, never hauling or towing anything. And, for the price of new aluminum heads, I could buy a 351w. There is a guy selling a rebuilt one locally, with E7 heads installed, and he said he'd take my 302 on trade.

Or I just stick with my stock low compression and low flow heads, and move on to other things with the truck that need more attention (and money)...lol.

 

The E7 to be blunt are crap in terms of a perfomance cylinder head, the only thing they going for them is the smaller combustion chamber in comparison to other earlier smog era heads.


In terms of flow they are one of the worst flowing heads fitted to the SBF Ford. The Stock C6AE head flows better he stock D0OE flows better the stock D2's flow better, any of the GT 40 heads are way way better.


The only advantage E7 heads had was a tighter chamber so they could be swapped on to 70's and early 80's era SBF's and get the compression back up for minimal cost in days gone by. The E7 heads were a good option 25-30 years ago when there were basically no aftermarket heads, no GT 40 type heads and the E7's were dirt cheap and easy to find. In todays world they are not worth the hassle to pull the heads to install.


On your engine since you are going to pull the heads, if you could find a set E7's in good shape for low cost you can bump your compression ratio, the E7's they won't flow any better than what is on the engine currently but it will improve your compressions ratio which in turns adds power and improves efficiency.


Someone selling a supposed built SBF with "E7" heads I would walk away from. Cause either they did it on the super cheap (to cheap to even spring for GT 40 heads) or had no clue what they were really doing. In either case you would buy an engine from someone who A. has no clue or B. was so cheap they could not spend an extra $50 for a set of GT40 heads. Ya think I'll pass.

 

Matt,

Thanks for all the comments. All good. I had no intentions of buying that 351w, I was just using it as an example...that if I get into spending too much on my 302, I could probably just as well go buy a 351. I had one of these trucks years ago that had a 351 in it, and I remember that it worked very well and had lots of power, even in stock trim.

If the rest of the truck was already finished, I'd have no problem buying a nice new set of aluminum heads for it. However, it still needs a lot of work, and I'm trying to be at least half way wise with the spending on it.
The main point of this current exercise was to just freshen things up a bit, boost the power slightly (because I'm already in there fixing leaks anyway), and make things more reliable.

Thanks again!