Great stuff, thanks Matt.

So, what cam specs are considered within the "RV Grind" spectrum?

I've been playing around with Comp Cams Camquest selector, and it is giving me some good recommendations, but I don't know if what I'm looking at are considered RV grinds or not...

 

New cam can be good. One time I had a Chevy 305 that had already been in two vehicles. I bought the smallest crane energizer cam they had from summit racing, package deal $99.99 with lifters. I put it in an old 3/4 Chevy and it was a real win. Tons of power, smooth idle, lots of manifold vacuum....really awesome results. It would really move that big truck around off idle and at highway speeds.

 

I find that comp has a pretty limited range for flat tappet 302's

I personally would look at Cranes

260 H10 or H-260-2

http://www.cranecams.com/uploads/cat...%20Catalog.pdf

Page 178.

Another good option is summits SUM-K3600 (you'll love the price) this has the same specs as the old flat tappet Ford Motorsports RV cam that is NLA.

https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...3600/overview/

The Ford motorsports timing chain. Although not cheap it is worth every penny they last forever and are very high quality I would say the best on the market I have a set that is on it's 3rd engine.... The multi index sprocket also allows you to dial in your cam correctly.
there are lots of how to's on youtube on how to do that.

https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6268-A302

Just remember that with the smog removal and a cam you will have to look at re tuning the carb as it may very well be a bit on the lean side. Hopefully it will just mean a jet swap.

 

Thanks for the info Matt et al,

This forum is great. I get 90% of what I need by searching, and I get the other 10% by asking.

I plan to pull the engine and trans in the next couple weeks sometime. I'll be back.

Cheers,
Cory

 

Would any of you know off hand the depth of the 7/16" bolt holes on the back of the 302 where the bell housing bolts on?

 

I finally got the old 3-speed pulled out this afternoon, and the only thing left holding the engine in is the exhaust, so I might even get that pulled out tomorrow.

I found that I have a 1pc rear main seal at least. That's good news...I guess. Easier than dealing with the 2pc style. I thought the seal was leaking, but I think it's just the oil pan.

 

See the two big chunks of the transmission still attached to the bell housing?...lol. This wasn't a surprise, I knew about it since I bought the truck.
Perhaps the trans will get repurposed as a boat anchor.

PS: See the corroded aluminum all along the bottom of the bell? Looks like that might have been the cause of the cracks...or one of the causes.

 

And here's a pic of the pressure plate. Can anybody comment on the blotchy spots? This thing had a fairly bad shudder when letting the clutch out from a standstill. The clutch disc is quite worn down, so probably just worn out I guess. Another bit of scrap for the bin.

 

Yup Seen this more than a few times on rust belt vehicles. The trans mounting ears broke due to the corrosion on the bell housing. Once you source a new trans coat the mating surface with Noalox.

 

The blotches are over heat marks from slipping possibly on high spots. And do not toss it just yet you may need it for a core. If you can source a Fenco unit do so they were the best on the market in Canada. Barring that Sachs is the way to go. An 11" clutch should drop right in if you currently have a 10"

I would order the clutch kit from the same place that is resurfacing your flywheel. Spend the extra bucks and ask them to balance the assembly if they can. Then there is zero risk of weird vibrations from a wonky pressure plate. If they are a full service shop they will be able to reman your existing pressure plate.

For the rear main if you replace it, get a Motorcraft piece, try to stay away from after market if you can. If it has no signs of leaking/weeping/dampness I'd leave it alone.

 

I have an M5OD 5spd out of a 1991 F250 that will be going in place of the old 3 spd, and it has the integrated bell housing, so my original will not be getting re-used. I'll save it in case I need it for something else down the road.

Yes, original clutch is 10" OD. I checked Rock Auto and it lists an 11" clutch for the 1991 truck that the trans came from, so I was kinda planning on doing that. If I go with the 11" clutch, then I'll need a new 11" pressure plate anyway. I was wondering how the 11" could be swapped in place of the 10", but after looking at it again, I see the 11" has a different bolt pattern (not just a larger pattern). That is all good.

PS: I didn't know that anybody resurfaced anything anymore, but I'll check with the local engine shop and see what they say. Thanks Matt.

Oh...bugger on the rear main seal. I think it will bother me too much to not replace it while it's all apart...lol, but I'll get a little better look at it once I have the engine out and on the stand. Maybe I'll leave it alone.

 

Most flywheels have both bolt patterns for the 11" and 10" clutches.

As for local to you for clutches etc. They should be able to resurface and balance the assembly.

Ottawa Clutch. Automotive, industrial, agricultural clutches. Wichita clutches and brakes. Twin disc, NACD and Rockford Power take off and clutch parts

https://www.facebook.com/Ottawa-Clutch-189289774842635/

I belive you are in Ottawa if I recall correctly

I know what you are saying about the rear main. If you have the tool to install it then replace it. If not then seriusly consider leaving it alone.

You can fab your own out a chunk 3" PVC pipe/coupler.

You just want to pull the new seal in evenly.

 

No sir, I am about 20 mins outside of Halifax. I'll check around later this week and see what I can find out on flywheel re-work. Thanks for the tips Matt, much appreciated.

I may get the engine out tomorrow. I'll post up some more pics once I have that lump sitting on the stand.

 

I would get a clutch kit: disc/pressure plate/throw bearing/pilot bearing or bushing.
Have the fly wheel ground (done as turning a FW cant be done) and you should be good to go.

Fit the pilot bearing or bushing on the trany to make sure it fits before installing in the crank. Nothing like fighting the trany to go in only to find out the bushing/bearing is the wrong one, ask how I know

Oh to get the old bushing/bearing out you have a few ways to get this done.
1- they make a tool you might be able to rent. (I don't have one)
2- get a wooden dowel to fit tight (must fit tight!) in the bushing. Fill the bushing hole with grease to the top. Fit the dowel in the hole and hammer it in pushing the grease in. You may need to add more grease and it does make a mess.
3- get a wooden dowel to fit tight (must fit tight!) in the bushing. Fill the bushing hole with wet tissue to the top. Fit the dowel in the hole and hammer it in pushing the grease in. You may need to add more tissue and it does make a mess but not as bad as grease.

I would also see if the PP bolt holes line up on the FW when it is on the bench. Again nothing like trying to hold the PP up in place trying to get bolts to line up.
Dave ----

 

Dave,

All good points and ideas, thanks! I was planning on getting a full clutch kit that came with everything, even the alignment tool. Since I'm switching up to an 11" clutch, I'll need the larger pressure plate anyway.

For the pilot bearing, I have a blind hole bearing puller kit that I was hoping would work. I haven't checked yet to see if there is an insert that fits, but if there is that will make quick work of the removal. Otherwise, I'll move on to Plan B...which would likely be one of your ideas above.

Got the core support pulled this morning. That wasn't much fun with all the rusted nuts and bolts, but it is out. That will make pulling the engine quite a bit easier. I have very little space to work with unfortunately.