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Too bad no one has taken on a project of building a tuned custom MDF enclosure that fits our trucks. It's really not that hard to build the enclosure. You get sheet MDF and cut it up according to the measurements, glue it together and brad nail and/or clamp it while the glue sets. The protruding sub driver issue could be solved by insetting the driver into the enclosure.
If someone has done this an posts up the measurements, I'll build one of these boxes and see how easy or difficult it is and how it fits.
The guys on the DIY speaker forum over at avsforums do this all the time. If someone could get me the correct measurements, I could ask one of those folks to design it to a correct tune for us.
That`s one thing that ticks me off about JL because if anyone can do this, they can.
Yes, their Stealth Boxes are very pricey but they do work very well and i`d be more than willing to pay for one that fits behind the rear seat and is made out of fiberglass.
I don`t see any reason why they can`t or won`t build such an enclosure for the F150`s and SD`s that are not carry overs from a previous generation.
When it comes to their sub enclosures, they put more focus into the GM, RAM, and Toyota trucks with newer and better designs and fitments.
Sorry for the delay with posting pictures of the install. I finally have them. In full disclosure I had the majority of the local install removed and reinstalled by a great shop in Clearwater, Florida (Five Star Car Stereo). They did a fantastic reinstall job as well as spent 2 hours tuning the Audiocontrol DM8100.
I used the following components:
JL HD900/5 amp
AudioControl DM-810 DSP for EQ and time alignment
JL shallow mount 10" sub in a custom sub enclosure placed behind the drivers side rear seat.
Pac Audio AP4-FD11 Interface.
The front speakers are the Focal K2 165KR2 components and the rears are Focal PC130F coaxial speakers.
The Focal crossovers as well as the JL amp, AudioControl unit and the Cellink Neo dash cam battery (I just installed the Neo today, so it isn't properly attached.
Can you post up the exact size measurements of that JL Sub box as well as correct JL driver that goes into the box? Thanks.
I'll measure the enclosure the next time I go out to the truck. The sub box is a custom enclosure a local company made for the sub in order for it to fit in my truck. The Sony amp resides behind the box on the right side.
The sub is a JL 10TW3-D8. Coupled with the JL amp (HD900/5) the sub and speakers kick ***.
Can you post up the exact size measurements of that JL Sub box as well as correct JL driver that goes into the box? Thanks.
Sure - here you go. Hopefully, this makes sense.
Width, left to right is 24"
Height is 14"
top depth is 3 1/2"
Bottom depth is 5"
There is a recessed area in the back right where the original installer placed the Ford module/amp.
The drivers side back seat only goes up about 80%, but the seat stays up. It just doesn't lock.
The sub is a JL 10TW3-D8
I hope this all makes sense and helps. Let me know if you need additional information.
I'll measure the enclosure the next time I go out to the truck. The sub box is a custom enclosure a local company made for the sub in order for it to fit in my truck. The Sony amp resides behind the box on the right side.
The sub is a JL 10TW3-D8. Coupled with the JL amp (HD900/5) the sub and speakers kick ***.
Did you see JL`s announcement yesterday about their new DSP amplifier line called VXi?
Outside of the very expensive and higher end Audison amps, JL is the only other manufacture that offers fully digital amps but one can also go analog as well with the new JL amps.
Did you see JL`s announcement yesterday about their new DSP amplifier line called VXi?
Outside of the very expensive and higher end Audison amps, JL is the only other manufacture that offers fully digital amps but one can also go analog as well with the new JL amps.
I didn't, but it sounds very interesting.
I watched a demo of one of the TWK products with the TUN interface and the user interface seems to be a lot easier to use with beginner, intermediate and screw everything up settings. The AudioControl DM-810 starts out with no settings and very little help on getting started.
I watched a demo of one of the TWK products with the TUN interface and the user interface seems to be a lot easier to use with beginner, intermediate and screw everything up settings. The AudioControl DM-810 starts out with no settings and very little help on getting started.
Yes, that TWK and it`s TUN software looks very, very sweet and well thought out and the expert settings in the TWK are just on a whole different level than what Audio Control has.
JL did something smart with these new amps and the TWK/TUN software that`s built into them. They can be setup/tuned/adjusted via a Mac, iOS either iPhone or iPad, Windows, and Android.
These amps are the next generation of the XD amps and not the best ones which in my opinion are the HD amps.
Yes, that TWK and it`s TUN software looks very, very sweet and well thought out and the expert settings in the TWK are just on a whole different level than what Audio Control has.
JL did something smart with these new amps and the TWK/TUN software that`s built into them. They can be setup/tuned/adjusted via a Mac, iOS either iPhone or iPad, Windows, and Android.
These amps are the next generation of the XD amps and not the best ones which in my opinion are the HD amps.
I agree about the HD amps being their best amps. I hope AudioControl can update their software to compete with JL's TUN.
Width, left to right is 24"
Height is 14"
top depth is 3 1/2"
Bottom depth is 5"
There is a recessed area in the back right where the original installer placed the Ford module/amp.
The drivers side back seat only goes up about 80%, but the seat stays up. It just doesn't lock.
The sub is a JL 10TW3-D8
I hope this all makes sense and helps. Let me know if you need additional information.
Thanks. I'm going to mock up a cardboard version and see how it fits back there. I can then either buy or fabricate an enclosure.
I installed this JL box behind my seat this weekend. It fits in place of the factory Sony sub box and leaves room for the factory amp (I replaced mine with the DSR1 + a 5 channel amp). I faced the woofer to the back wall of the cab (the lower corner of the cab is rounded so this made it fit better) and drilled a hole in the bottom of the box so it would slide down over the seat stud. The rear seat will fold up about 3/4 of the way. Plenty of room to grab stuff but not all the way up. I listen to rock and like the punch of sealed boxes better but I had this one laying around so thought I'd see if it fit. It did and it sounds pretty darn good!
For those of you who've added new speakers/sub and used an aftermarket interface, have you had to use Forscan and change the settings of the head unit?
Correct, the harness they are talking about won't work since you are non-Sony. Get the Parrot harness, pass signal through the 4-channel to the sub amp. I'm not entirely certain what will happen with the factory tweeter, but suspect it will be powered by the amp. I also suspect the center channel will not play.
I also have an XL/STX and plan on using the Parrot harness to add a 5 channel amp (have a EQS eq which will give me a 5th channel off the rears). Question I have is - does the Parrot harness have a remote turn on (blue/white wire) that i can tap into? if not how do i get the amp to remote turn on and even more so when Sync 3 is turned on but no key in the ignition (no ACC)?
I plan on replacing the door speaker, installing a JBL Club 4505 5 channel, EQS eq, and Kicker 10" sub/box combo.
03-10-2018, 10:53 AM
