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Problems with my pickup

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Old Dec 3, 2017 | 01:21 PM
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Post Problems with my pickup

Hey all, so im new to this site and see that everyone here seems to really have the know how with these older FORDs.
I have a 1978 f250 custom single cab 8ft bed with 2wd. engine is a 351m 5.8L with about 150k miles on it. The trans is a borg warner t18 manual. The truck hasnt been on the road, or even run for what its worth, since before i was born (in 2000), and has a few major issues:
1.) i presume the brake lines are leaky, because i opened the reservoir and both chambers were bone dry. Does anyone who has replaced the lines on a 70s ford have a link i can use to find the right lines? I cant seem to find a place with the right brake lines.
2.) the transmission crossmember is horribly rotted and on side isnt even reaching the other, and it is sagging down. I have no clue what to do about this issue because when i look up "warner t18 crossmember" or anything similar, i see no results for vehicles from the 70s. Any advice would be appreciated.
3.) where is the fuel return line, if there is one? I got the engine to start but i ran it off a water bottle filled with gas because my tank is needing to be replaced. The pump sucked out the entire water bottle in LITERALLY 10 seconds of idling. I refuse to believe that my engine idling REALLY goes through that much, so im thinking there is some excess gsa not burned that goes somewhere, but i only see one line going from my gas tank to the pump, so i dont know where that return line would go. i could really use advice with that as well.
please understand ive been working on this truck only since october, so im still a noob to this but i can learn well.
thanks
 
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Old Dec 3, 2017 | 02:08 PM
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1. I would confirm where the actual brake fluid is going before I ordered lines..

2. a salvage yard is probably your best bet for a crossmember.

3. no fuel return line. the pump could have simply been filling the fuel bowl in the carb...I wouldn't worry much about that until you got it tuned up...
 
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Old Dec 3, 2017 | 02:32 PM
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Start one thread, and stay with it, or you are going to have people giving you the same, similar, or different thoughts in each one.

Your carburetor definitely needs to be rebuilt after sitting 17+ years. The rebuild kit is super cheap, and is a good experience.

Post pics. Pics pics pics. We may see things that you dont.

Welcome to FTE
 
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Old Dec 3, 2017 | 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 1978custom
Hey all, so im new to this site and see that everyone here seems to really have the know how with these older FORDs.
I have a 1978 F250 351M T-18 Regular Cab.

The transmission cross member is horribly rotted and on side isn't even reaching the other, and it is sagging down. .
See 6A023 "Engine Rear Support" in pic (it bolts on). Is this what you're calling the cross member?

 
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Old Dec 3, 2017 | 03:03 PM
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hi guys, thanks. ill stick to this thread then.
ill upload pics next time i have a chance to. The carb was actually rebuilt about 4 years ago by my uncle who was trying to get it running but only managed to disassemble the carb and clean it and put it back in.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2017 | 03:04 PM
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NumberDummy, the crossmember i was talking about was the one holding up the transmission. my engine xmembers are actually in very good shape, but my transmission looks like it will fall through unless i replace the crossmember. ill post a pic when i can
 
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Old Dec 3, 2017 | 03:29 PM
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For the lines, you can buy generic metal line at the parts store, but you'll probably need to save some of the fittings from the truck because they are different sizes in some spots.

To save a fitting, simply cut off the line as close to the fitting as possible, and then you can use a socket to remove the fitting with less chance of rounding it off or otherwise boogering it up like a wrench might do.
Sometimes it'll take some work to get the remnant of the old line out of the fitting, but it beats chasing down new ones.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2017 | 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 1978custom
NumberDummy, the crossmember i was talking about was the one holding up the transmission. my engine xmembers are actually in very good shape, but my transmission looks like it will fall through unless i replace the crossmember. ill post a pic when i can
Theres one or two on ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/1973-1979-F...9Z7VDp&vxp=mtr

unless you can find in junkyard or weld in new metal to your existing for repairs
 
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Old Dec 3, 2017 | 04:21 PM
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well, i topped the reservoir off today with fluid and pumped the brakes until i saw no bubbles, and it sure feels fine but im worried since the lines do have rust on them. also, the reservoir was empty when i got it, so wouldnt that mea my lines are bad?
 
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Old Dec 3, 2017 | 04:23 PM
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thanks for the link!
the ad said its for automatic, but would it work with my manual one? mine is the t18 warner manual, i believe that was for the C6. if it will fit ill just get that.
thank you!
 
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Old Dec 3, 2017 | 04:47 PM
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Somebody correct me if I'm wrong but if the mechanical fuel pump diaphragm goes I'm pretty sure your fuel could be getting into the crankcase. Check your oil for being over full and smelling like gas. Could explain draining that bottle so fast. Also like was said before it sounds like a good time for a carb rebuild and tune up. Good luck.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2017 | 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 1978custom
well, i topped the reservoir off today with fluid and pumped the brakes until i saw no bubbles, and it sure feels fine but im worried since the lines do have rust on them. also, the reservoir was empty when i got it, so wouldnt that mea my lines are bad?
If its been sitting since 2000 the the fluid could have evaporated , after you bleed the brake system inspect for leaks and if no leaks you should be good, I might suggest to replace the master cylinder in the near future but if its a good pedal your probably ok for now
 
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Old Dec 3, 2017 | 06:51 PM
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so i just went outside and heres what happened:
1, i topped off both chambers of the reservoir, and pumped the pedal numerous times, the pedal felt sturdy and hard to push down (came back a bit slowly though, but im guessing because its a bit sticky from sitting so long)
2 i checked the reservoir afterward, and the larger chamber was still topped off, and the front one was half empty.
3 i filled the front chamber again, and pumped the pedal again
4 the front chamber was half empty again.
Do you think that maybe the lines were just so dry that they still need fluid and its being sucked down into the lines, or do you tihnk its actually leaking? the pedal feels pretty good, and it definately feels like theres resistance, but with the front chamber being half empty im pretty dubious. thanks
 
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Old Dec 3, 2017 | 06:58 PM
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Before you tear anything down, fill it up with brake fluid and find the leak. My master cylinder was leaking where the booster meets the back of the MC.

Take some pictures of your brakes and post them if your planning on replacing the calipers, rotors, etc. On autozone it will have 'Standard' or 'Heavy Duty', these are not the same, and contain different bearings and are different shapes. I found that out the hard way, thanks to the dummy behind the counter.

About that drinking problem, were the bowls filled up prior? Anyways, pull the plugs out and see if they are wet. Id say there's a carb leak, leaking down the intake.

Also how many 16-17 yearolds have Dents! (I'm 17)
 
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Old Dec 3, 2017 | 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 1978custom
so i just went outside and heres what happened:
1, i topped off both chambers of the reservoir, and pumped the pedal numerous times, the pedal felt sturdy and hard to push down (came back a bit slowly though, but im guessing because its a bit sticky from sitting so long)
2 i checked the reservoir afterward, and the larger chamber was still topped off, and the front one was half empty.
3 i filled the front chamber again, and pumped the pedal again
4 the front chamber was half empty again.
Do you think that maybe the lines were just so dry that they still need fluid and its being sucked down into the lines, or do you tihnk its actually leaking? the pedal feels pretty good, and it definately feels like theres resistance, but with the front chamber being half empty im pretty dubious. thanks
Right when I post a reply , Check for fluid coming from or under your rear wheel cylinders, and the block on your rear axle.
 
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