Looking at a 2001 Excursion V-10 4x4. I've read quite a bit about the spring mods. Has anyone used springs from SD Truck Springs? I was told by one person to ONLY use factory Ford springs but the recommendation didn't come with any reasons why. I understand that the lift kit springs aren't the same but the ones I'm looking at are supposed to be stock replacements. Any guidance from those who have already been there would be welcome. A search for SD Truck Springs netted nothing that was applicable. Thanks.

 

ATS Springs
Leaf Springs and Suspension Parts by Auto and Truck Springs
Phone number: 1-888-943-8287

Harleysville, PA 19438

 

Thanks. Their website has better info on weight ratings, ect...

 

I swapped my springs to the V/C codes from ATS. They are fantastic to deal with. Call them and ask for Junior. He will take the time to explain all the options and what the total lift will be, if that's a concern. Call them

 

I used OEM X/B codes on my EX, but if were to do it over again I would also call Junior at ATS, he has been great to work with as both a site supporter and forum member here and has helped out many of our EX family with just what they wanted. He will supply top quality parts (everything you will need) for a fair price.
@ATS Junior

 

I bought front X codes from Ford and rear springs from ATS. ATS will set it up so it visually has the right rake. Give them a call, great people to deal with. Had I to do it over, I would have bought the front springs from them too but I had purchased them previously before starting the project.

 

Called Junior at ATS and he set me up with X code fronts, modified C code rear, Bilstein shocks and steering stabilizer, and an adjustable track bar for $1650.00 shipped. That's a lot of money but it'll be done right and all the hardware and bolts are included. He said this setup should clear 35" tires as long as I didn't go wider than a 12.50 and had the correct wheels.

So now I'm looking for gears. I had originally figured on 4.56's if I ran 33" tires and 4.88's if I went with 35" tires. What's a reasonable rpm target for towing an 11,000 lb camper at 70 mph with a V-10? Looks like, with 35" tires, 4.88's put it at about 2300 in OD and 5.13's at just over 2500...add about 1000 rpm for the shift into direct drive with either ratio. For some reason, the 5.13 gears were less expensive although I wonder if the carrier has to also be replaced to use them. I'm not too concerned about everyday driving MPG because I already know it's going to suck. I am concerned with good towing performance and having a vehicle that's responsive. My old Dodge minivan that currently serves as back and forth to work beater and kid hauler just makes a lot more noise when you mash the gas but doesn't go any faster...I hate driving it.

 

What model 11K TT are you towing? Ours is a '14 Jayco Eagle 338RETS that measures about 41' from the Hensley hitch to the rear bumper and scales at 11,300lbs. My V-10 EX is the dedicated tow rig for that TT and I am running modded X/B codes with 35.28" Nitto Duras (305/70R18) on '04 Lariat 18" wheels and 4.88 gears. It works pretty well.
Using a GPS for the speed and the digital tach on my Ultra-Gauge I am turning 2400 RPMs at 70 MPH in OD. I typically tow at 65-ish on the highway with runs up to 72 or so before big hills where I bleed off some of that speed to keep it in OD on the climb and get the best MPGs. On our mostly Interstate Highway trips we get 8 to 9.5 MPG and 7.5 to 8 on shorter trips that are mostly country roads. Unloaded highway with cruise set at 65 MPH gets me 12.5 MPG. I highly recommend 5Star Tuning for some nice custom tunes to make the trans work waaaaay better and to give a little snappier engine performance, I mostly use the 89 Octane Performance tune for our towing trips, sometimes the 87 Performance tune for flatter runs but that is pretty rare. The Perf tunes allow for greater throttle opening at speed under load like a good hill pull while staying in OD. Stock would downshift at 45% throttle opening vs the 89 Perf tunes that will allow up to 65%htrottle opening before a downshift.
With this setup when it does need to downshift on a hill it typically will be able to accelerate right back up to your desired speed.
5.13s will make it a locomotive but I think they will also seriously affect the fuel economy, I ran my 4.88s for two years with 32" tires (4.80 effective ratio) and it was a Hotrod around town unloaded and pulled the then 9,500lb TH like a Boss. But the unloaded MPGs were down to 12 with a tailwind.
I also have a set of Banks headers and an Aeroturbine 3030XL muffler with the factory 3" exhaust piping.

 

It's a Forest River Cherokee 304 BH. I haven't scaled it yet but the GVWR is 11,215 and it's about 39' long. Pulled it to Disney this spring and then came back up through Crystal River and Destin. My 7.3 F-350 handles it with no issues but I suspect the Excursion will be a slightly different experience. I'll have to get used to turning the engine a lot faster. Thanks for all the info...sounds like 4.88's are the ticket for 35" tires. I had planned on doing the 5 Star tuner after suspension, wheels/tires, and brakes were done. Your Excursion looks great! The way it sits is exactly what I had in mind for mine. How do you like the Dura Grapplers? I was debating between those and Terras but I'll never take this rig off road. I only wanted the 4x4 for getting the camper into some of the places we take it. There have been a few spots I don't think my truck would have backed it into with 2 wd. Do you run premium gas when towing? I was wondering if it was worth the extra cost...

 

I LOVE these Nitto Duras, wearing great and they are the quietest truck tires I've ever used. My EX doesn't go off road and stays in the driveway all Winter, so the highway tread was the right choice for it.
I match my gas to the tune I'm running, so mostly 89 Octane.
With that much TT behind the short wheelbase EX be sure to use a very good WD hitch with built-in sway control or sway elimination, I LOVE our Hensley Arrow. The big TT's tongue weight is over the Hensley's 1400 max by 450 but it still performs perfectly.
Your 4R100 trans will be very happy if you use LOW range for reversing the big heavy trailer, that helps keep the input shaft seal from overheating and leaking. I have my vacuum switch to the front hubs unplugged and always use 2WD LOW for backing the TT.

 

I don't know why someone would say to "ONLY" use OEM springs - that makes no sense. I happened to use Ford springs from two donor trucks but that was only because it was cheaper (no shipping - the shop was literally 4 miles from my house).

Spring swap was the absolute best upgrade I've done - even better than the mirrors and F650 dash. Drives like a whole different truck.

 

I had the same reaction. I was also told that there was no way he'd ever buy a V-10 Ex for towing though. If I were towing all the time, I might agree but I'm not. I need a daily driver/kid hauler that has the capability to tow my camper or flatbed when I need it to. For that, the gas burner seems a good match. Right now, with a capacity of 5 in my F-350, we can't take any of the kid's friends camping with us unless we drive two vehicles which kind of sucks. My plan is to sell the F-350, buy the Excursion, and use the left over funds to do the suspension and probably upgrade the brakes. Then sell my van and do wheels/tires, gears, and whatever else I can afford at the time. Priority one is to make it safe to tow with. I have a spreadsheet with all the needed/wanted mods listed by priority and I'm making an effort to do the research and seek the advice of those who have already done this. I think I'm dreading the exhaust work more than anything because, given my usual luck, every single stud will break off 1/8" inside the head. Then you drill it and get a little too aggressive with the easy-out and break it off in the stud...

 

Well, yeah, if you tow ALL the time, a diesel makes total sense, but for occasional work the V10 is just fine...especially if you put on something like an SCT with a tune from 5 Star.

Complete.
Different.
Truck.

Even just using the 87 tow tune, the trans shift points are smarter into the power band, the shift duration is super tight, and the fuel tables let the motor spin up into the power band faster.

I probably tow two to three times a month on weekends, a 16' dual axle box trailer coming in just under 7,500lbs. Truck alone carries maybe 200-300lbs of gear in two sliding drawers where the 3rd row used to go. The Modded B's were great but it still sagged about 2" with 13% of the trailer weight on the tongue with a hitch ball that's maybe 6" farther out than your average ball receiver.

I added a set of AirLift bags (the ones with the bump stops inside the air bag itself) and a wireless controller.

15lbs in the bags when I'm not towing. Trailer sags the ball down 2". 65psi in the bags raises the ball up 2" so I get the same stance when towing.

I like your priorities my man!

Suggestions from a 2000 owner on upgrades:
1. Springs to get rid of the axle-on-frame crunch coming out of a parking lot...or even just looking at the truck.
2. Headlights headlights headlights. OEM on that model SUUUUUCKED. I tried getting the clear lens models and that didn't do jack. Updated to the 2005 version and it is LITERALLY night and day now.
3. Mirrors. If you tow at all, the paddle mirrors suck. The stock tow mirrors are OK, but the blind spot mirror is all but useless. Upgraded to the 2008-20015 (?) mirrors (I splurged and got the power fold) and the blind spot mirror is AWESOME.

That's from a guy with no kids to haul...your order may vary, LOL

 

I always think its cute when folks dismiss the V-10 for towing work.

 

"That's from a guy with no kids to haul...your order may vary, LOL"

First priority will be to get a longer stick so I can reach the ones in the back seat when they get mouthy.