400 headwork
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 42
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From: downingtown pa
400 headwork
I'm building my first engine, a 400, and i have two sets of heads from 351m's. I want to get some work done to the heads for more power. So far i have an edelbrock performer intake carb and cam. I want to know what i should do with my heads. It is going to be a daily driver, but i want alot fo power. I'm only 17, so my budget is somewhat limited also. thanks.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 887
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From: Jax FL
400 headwork
the only thing i would look into is to have them fitted with the larger 4V valve.
flow data is at www.waldens.com.
flow data is at www.waldens.com.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,648
Likes: 352
From: Albuquerque
400 headwork
What cam do you have? Head work gets expensive in a hurry. My personal preference is to pocket port, port match (some will dissagree), bronz guides if needed, and a three angle valve job. You can also add stainless valves and stelite valve seats.
If you do go ahead make sure the heads don't have the raised exhaust floor (valve guide flush). I prefer to use early 351C heads
Call a good machine shop and get a price for everything. If you are on a budget and the heads are working OK Eric might be right.
If you do go ahead make sure the heads don't have the raised exhaust floor (valve guide flush). I prefer to use early 351C heads
Call a good machine shop and get a price for everything. If you are on a budget and the heads are working OK Eric might be right.
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 886
Likes: 1
From: Houston/Hope BC
400 headwork
Eric is pretty much on the money, but there is some virtually free HP available, IMO. Get/borrow a die grinder and talk someone you know who has done it before to show you how to clean up the rough spots. Do not dig the Lincoln tunnel in you heads! The idea is to break the sharp turns and allow a smoother transition, especially right at the edge of the valve seat. A little will go a long way! This is free, until you run the grinder across a valve seat.
Forget the big valves stuff on your budget, it gets pricey fast. I think I have over a $750.00 in my heads by the time you add up seats, guides and valves and labor to fit them. Which is about what I spent in total the first time I put one of these back together on the cheap. A good valve job will make HP over a bad one... and often overlooked, is proper bore finish. Get some headers.
Any engine build will be HP gained versus dollars spent and the first are the cheapest, they just keep getting more expensive as you go. Best of luck on your project.
Forget the big valves stuff on your budget, it gets pricey fast. I think I have over a $750.00 in my heads by the time you add up seats, guides and valves and labor to fit them. Which is about what I spent in total the first time I put one of these back together on the cheap. A good valve job will make HP over a bad one... and often overlooked, is proper bore finish. Get some headers.
Any engine build will be HP gained versus dollars spent and the first are the cheapest, they just keep getting more expensive as you go. Best of luck on your project.
