alignment/ steering issue
Re-check the front brakes (specifically the calipers) to see if you have rusted caliper slides.
EVERY time I do my brakes, I look for the areas that are supposed to allow the calipers to slide in and out and make certain they have been cleaned of rust and then lubricated with a permanent lube such as anti-sieze compound or white lithium grease.
This is mandatory! If you don't- several things can happen. A caliper that cannot move will cause all of the braking force to be applied to the piston side pad. This reduces the braking force on that side of the truck and also causes the (inner?) pad to wear out three times as fast as it should.
Stuck or binding calipers can also sieze in a position that leaves the outer pad still applying braking force to the rotor, which can mean that not only will the pad self destruct at a high rate, but your mileage will be drastically reduced. Eventually the pad wears down enough that you are left in the first situation, above.
BOTH of these conditions will cause one side of your front brakes to pull to one side or the other, which is why it's important to do a "Hands Off" straight-line brake check when everything is done to ensure that the braking force is equal at all four corners.
- A sure sign of this is that when the old pads come off, one of the pads in a pair of them will be worn a lot thinner than the others... Under ideal circumstances they should all wear evenly.
If everything is right, you should be able to apply the brakes on level ground without the steering wheel turning at all.
Bubbles in one of the lines can also be the culprit, and NEVER get grease on the pads!!! I use brake pad spray every single time I assemble brakes, just to make sure I haven't made a boo-boo like planting my big fat greasy fingers on the pad or rotor surfaces while putting things back together.
~Greywolf sends...
Last edited by Greywolf; Sep 21, 2003 at 12:58 AM.



