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Terrible previous owner strikes again. I need to replace the windshield and find that it was a horrible home hack install. It took forever to get out because the PO had used about 3x as much goop as required, but also gouged up the paint so it rusted. Luckily, none went through. There are some sections that were headed that direction but I caught it in time.
I've got it all wire brushed and ready to protect. I want to make sure I get a good rust encapsulator that will stand the test of time under a windshield. The local auto parts stores have various brands that are clear and you can paint over them. I also have some POR15. I am fine with black where you can't see it anyway, but I'm a little afraid of paint compatibility with the POR since it's not entirely bare metal. Not sure it's the right tool for this job. I'm sure someone on this forum has more experience than me with this stuff. Thanks in advance for any advice/experience.
So you're bitching about the previous home hack job install yet you're doing the same thing. Its obvious you don't know what you're doing and there are professionals that specialize in this for this very reason.
Auto glass installers have primer to cover the pinch weld if it's scratched before the urethane is applied. This application is specific to the urethane maker and critical to correct adhesion. The glass is also primed to ensure the urethane bonds to it properly. The urethane must be heated before it can be applied.
This may seem easy but there are important things to know to make certain the glass is bonded properly and doesn't come out in an accident. Your hack job may cost you or someoneyou love their life. Thank about hiring the professionals.
POR works best when applied over rust so having everything down to the bare metal this product might not be the best solution.
Having said that, any of the rust encapsulation products are temporary solutions in my eyes. What you need to do it treat the issue properly and from the Sounds of what Blakshukvw said regarding installing the glass, sounds like a pro might be in order.
So you're bitching about the previous home hack job install yet you're doing the same thing. Its obvious you don't know what you're doing and there are professionals that specialize in this for this very reason.
Auto glass installers have primer to cover the pinch weld if it's scratched before the urethane is applied. This application is specific to the urethane maker and critical to correct adhesion. The glass is also primed to ensure the urethane bonds to it properly. The urethane must be heated before it can be applied.
This may seem easy but there are important things to know to make certain the glass is bonded properly and doesn't come out in an accident. Your hack job may cost you or someoneyou love their life. Thank about hiring the professionals.
So you're bitching about the previous home hack job install yet you're doing the same thing. Its obvious you don't know what you're doing and there are professionals that specialize in this for this very reason.
Auto glass installers have primer to cover the pinch weld if it's scratched before the urethane is applied. This application is specific to the urethane maker and critical to correct adhesion. The glass is also primed to ensure the urethane bonds to it properly. The urethane must be heated before it can be applied.
This may seem easy but there are important things to know to make certain the glass is bonded properly and doesn't come out in an accident. Your hack job may cost you or someoneyou love their life. Thank about hiring the professionals.
I'm using an auto glass installer. I'm just fixing the rust issues before reinstall so that maybe the windshield stays in. Thanks for the kind words.
From what I can tell POR15 stays too flexible, so isn't the right stuff. I have the windshield frame down to bare metal, but I won't be able to grind deep enough to get rid of the black rust stains. Advice on preventing rust from returning is appreciated.
If you're having a glass professional install the new windshield then let them do what they do. They know how to treat and prep the pinch weld even if it's bare metal. Their primer is intended for just this purpose. This should be totally hands off to you as the owner.
I apologize for coming off as rude. I just thought what you posted was ironic. As you said I am the someone on the forum that has more experience with this since I installed auto glass for more than 10 years.
If you're having a glass professional install the new windshield then let them do what they do. They know how to treat and prep the pinch weld even if it's bare metal. Their primer is intended for just this purpose. This should be totally hands off to you as the owner.
I apologize for coming off as rude. I just thought what you posted was ironic. As you said I am the someone on the forum that has more experience with this since I installed auto glass for more than 10 years.
The installer was the one that said there was too much rust for him to deal with. I'm just trying to fix it right.
I have something similar and I was pleasantly surprised at how well it worked for my application.
They're very light on air compressor requirements also.
Personally I used crushed glass as an abrasive.
The sand blasting will get into the little holes without having to grind the rest of the area way down. You can then fill it with body filler if you want.
Body filler on a pinch weld is a no no. In am accident the Bondo could break out causing the glass to come out. If there's that much rust then new metal should be welded in.
You said the metal was gouged but not rusted through. I'd be interested to see pics if you can load them. What I'm envisioning doesn't seem that bad in my mind and in my experience I've done exactly what you've done so far with the wire wheel and finished it with a good coat of pinch weld primer. A thick coat that thoroughly covers all the exposed rust will keep it from continuing to rust. Pics would be great.
Thanks, I think that is a phosphoric acid based converter similar to Ospho. Locally I found something similar and painted it over the rust stains last night. The rust spots are dark black now. Hopefully good enough to stop the stuff for a while.
My plan moving forward is some etching primer followed by sealing primer followed by some oxford white duplicolor paint. I might shoot some clear over that if I get a chance for an extra layer of sealing. I also need to put some seam sealer into some of the body attachment points under there. Ford left some pretty good gaps and the sealer is long gone. Hopefully this will do the job for quite a while.
I have something similar and I was pleasantly surprised at how well it worked for my application.
They're very light on air compressor requirements also.
Personally I used crushed glass as an abrasive.
The sand blasting will get into the little holes without having to grind the rest of the area way down. You can then fill it with body filler if you want.
I found one I can borrow and will probably do that. Just need to find some media today and I may be able to go at it tonight. I'd rather get rid of it completely than try to seal it.
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