Help with voltage source at rear ?
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2017
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That hot/charging wire is dead as a hammer unless your truck recognizes a trailer, im 99% sure its the electric brakes that trigger it. I verified this at my local rv dealer, he had a dummy box that tested plugs, it would not allow the hot wire to charge unless i hit my brake pedal. That opens the charging circuit.
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Freshman User
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ok but i have voltage present on one of those pins to frame ground and there is no trailer in the picture and no brake controller and the brake control enable and gain enable has not been programmed yet.
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2017
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so, the weather tite cover just shows it as + . Im guessing its the charging circuit for the electric brakes battery on the trailer. i have 4 trailers and 3 of them have electric brakes. i need to check and see how much current
the backup camera pulls but im guessing its an insignificant amount.
the backup camera pulls but im guessing its an insignificant amount.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2017
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From: Rush
Troverman gave you the best probable source, I wouldnt tap into the plug because it can create issues, newer trucks dont allow you to splice into that wiring harness for your trailer plug without consequence, so ive been told.
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Freshman User
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im thinking that using the feed for the tailgate lock may be problematic.
i have to figure out if theres voltage present there all the time and they are just sending ground through a relay or if they are relay switching the voltage down to the tailgate.
if they are relay switching the voltage then i wont be able to use it.
i have to figure out if theres voltage present there all the time and they are just sending ground through a relay or if they are relay switching the voltage down to the tailgate.
if they are relay switching the voltage then i wont be able to use it.
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New User
Joined: Sep 2017
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That cant be right in 2017. I just came in from testing it with volt meter and i have 12v between what the pic shows as pin 1 and frame ground on the truck side of the connector.
I saw this same pic on google and thought, no way, i just got voltage between the pin 1 in that pic and frame ground.
I saw this same pic on google and thought, no way, i just got voltage between the pin 1 in that pic and frame ground.
J
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 682
Likes: 4
From: SF Bay Area
So I pulled the plug out of the housing on my dump trailer and inserted it into the truck.
Started the truck, tapped the brakes a few times and the 12V+ never got hot....
Trying to diagnose why the batt wont charge on my trailer...
Started the truck, tapped the brakes a few times and the 12V+ never got hot....
Trying to diagnose why the batt wont charge on my trailer...
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 682
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From: SF Bay Area
In reading all the threads here and on another forum, there are several criteria to make the trickle charge wire hot.
Attach trailer plug.
Turning on lights shows voltage to controller and charge circuit will be hot.
Some say squeezing trailer brake controller will do the same- I did not verify.
Simply attaching trailer and pumping brakes did not work on my truck. I needed to add the draw of the running lights to activate the charge wire.
Attach trailer plug.
Turning on lights shows voltage to controller and charge circuit will be hot.
Some say squeezing trailer brake controller will do the same- I did not verify.
Simply attaching trailer and pumping brakes did not work on my truck. I needed to add the draw of the running lights to activate the charge wire.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
In reading all the threads here and on another forum, there are several criteria to make the trickle charge wire hot.
Attach trailer plug.
Turning on lights shows voltage to controller and charge circuit will be hot.
Some say squeezing trailer brake controller will do the same- I did not verify.
Simply attaching trailer and pumping brakes did not work on my truck. I needed to add the draw of the running lights to activate the charge wire.
Attach trailer plug.
Turning on lights shows voltage to controller and charge circuit will be hot.
Some say squeezing trailer brake controller will do the same- I did not verify.
Simply attaching trailer and pumping brakes did not work on my truck. I needed to add the draw of the running lights to activate the charge wire.
interesting. i wonder how this is going to work out when your trailers have LED lighting.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2017
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My thoughts exactly. I HATE that i didnt investigate further before buying this truck or i would have insisted on getting upfitter switches. Its a damn shame that they cant be added. Not in a stock configuration anyway.
Its not that hard to build a switch / relay bank but it would never be as clean as a factory setup. I cant believe someone in the aftermarket has not developed a " like factory " setup. I would snap one up in a second.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
In reading all the threads here and on another forum, there are several criteria to make the trickle charge wire hot.
Attach trailer plug.
Turning on lights shows voltage to controller and charge circuit will be hot.
Some say squeezing trailer brake controller will do the same- I did not verify.
Simply attaching trailer and pumping brakes did not work on my truck. I needed to add the draw of the running lights to activate the charge wire.
Attach trailer plug.
Turning on lights shows voltage to controller and charge circuit will be hot.
Some say squeezing trailer brake controller will do the same- I did not verify.
Simply attaching trailer and pumping brakes did not work on my truck. I needed to add the draw of the running lights to activate the charge wire.
i also watched a video on youtube where the guy traced the orange charge wire up to the engine bay and found it unhooked and capped off from the factory. He said he was going to just put in a switch and throw 12v to it.
thast soiunds like a bad idea to me as there would be no regulation at all. But thats jmo.