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Old Nov 20, 2017 | 08:33 AM
  #16  
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kylant
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Originally Posted by 17PSD
I can snap a pic tomorrow. I didnt want to drill either but I’m glad I did. I used some grade 8 4 inch bolts and some threaded 1.5 x3 in plates on the bottom. The ply wood I cut was three strips and roughly 8x12. It is pretty solid but even with one sled there was some movement so I don’t think turnbuckles would be a good idea.

I still might add turnbuckles for good measure.
Unfortunatley inhavent figures the light thing out yet. It’s super annoying cause it gives you a light out warning and turns off park assist. I’m not sure how it is going to work yet.
I’m going to add the extension and swap the plywood out for the Marlon bases.
The supertrack for the rear clamps mounted in the center section. If you imagine one sled in the middle then you can see where they fit in between the superglides.
I think I figured out the lights. you have to program a trailer into the trailer settings. make it a conventional trailer and set up the BLIS. use 3 ft length for the trailer. mine seems to work, it does shut off the rear park aid and vehicle crossing sensing. there is no way around that.

even with the marlon risers, you will still have to build up a platform. the riser kit only rises 1 1/8". also, none of the riser plates are drilled. you will have to drill through 6 3/16" aluminum plates for each leg (the riser and 5 shims).

was there anything close to the drill holes on the underside of the bed? I haven't looked under there yet. Did you put any other support plates under the bed, or just use the threaded block Marlon sent? I think I may just drill, but I want to distribute the force under the bed more. I don't know if I trust the strength of the bed tie down locations. As I was tightening the turnbuckles by hand, I could hear the bed creaking

I figured between the glides is where the rear clamp goes. That's on my list for today.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2017 | 08:57 AM
  #17  
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I would put something down. This past week I hauled a generator home from the camp. I had it tied down and when I unloaded it after a 5 hour drive I have a hole in the bed of my truck with less than 5000 miles. I sure do like this aluminum. Not really👎
 
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Old Nov 20, 2017 | 10:08 AM
  #18  
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Good to know. I would like to figure out how to keep the park aid on though. Having the camera with the lines is really helpful.

I used the plates that came with the deck for the bottom. They work well. I put 900 miles on loaded. I checked everything out and I think they should be good but like you I think having some distribution under there is crucial.

In the front i moved moved the legs about 8 inches off the front so there was room to get the plate in there on the bottom side . Drivers side you have the filler neck to deal with but that’s about it.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2017 | 04:04 PM
  #19  
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It would be nice to figure out the lighting and have all the functions work properly. I also have the trailer light fault, says my left trailer light is out. didn't realize that yesterday. The left turn signal will hyperflash on the dash, but the actual indicator lights flash at normal speed

I decided to bolt. I didn't trust the tie down points in the bed especially they were creaking when I was tightening the turnbuckles down by hand. No issues drilling, lots of clearance, even on the fueling side.

As you can see I have the Marlon risers in place. They come with the base and 5 3/16" shims for each one. I have 2 pieces of 3/4" ply down. I used 3 of the shims and the plate for 3/4" of rise. So total I have 2.25" of rise to the deck.

I took one of the plates and used them under the bed at each bolt location to spread the load. Then the threaded plate Marlon supplies and a lock nut.

I think this is a much better way to go.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2017 | 09:19 AM
  #20  
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Nice job on the mounting. That is a great solution.

I have my dealer sending me the mounts asap along with the fold out extension.

Now just need to find some snow.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2018 | 10:05 PM
  #21  
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sorry to dig up a year old thread, but I am curious how the Marlon's have been working for those of you that have them. I am debating between these and a truckboss (I like the ability to have a winch plate/winch). Would probably go with the 2ft extension on the 7ft deck. Was also curious how the rise in the tailgate impacted installation? Appreciate any advice, we currently have an open trailer, but want to get something more mobile for our trips.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2018 | 08:21 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by sfdvisuals
sorry to dig up a year old thread, but I am curious how the Marlon's have been working for those of you that have them. I am debating between these and a truckboss (I like the ability to have a winch plate/winch). Would probably go with the 2ft extension on the 7ft deck. Was also curious how the rise in the tailgate impacted installation? Appreciate any advice, we currently have an open trailer, but want to get something more mobile for our trips.
Its been great for me. I havent had any problems with mine. I left it on all summer.

Cant really compare it to the truck boss as I dont have any experience with them. I will say the idea of it totally sealing the bed is nice. But based on the info I could find the majority of the weight was carried by the bed rails which is the main reason I went the way I did.

Also, yes go 7 foot. At least
 
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Old Oct 11, 2018 | 09:51 PM
  #23  
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Been running a truckboss deck for years. Transfered it last year to my 18 with zero issues other then needing a new rear seal flap to fit the new truck. I’ve had zero issues with it on the aluminum bed but I did cut plywood feet for the legs.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2018 | 10:03 PM
  #24  
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on the truckboss, did you bolt through the bed as well as securing the rest? Do you leave it on year round? My main reason for the Marlon is the difficulty of removing (and reinstalling) the truckboss.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2018 | 10:12 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by sfdvisuals
on the truckboss, did you bolt through the bed as well as securing the rest? Do you leave it on year round? My main reason for the Marlon is the difficulty of removing (and reinstalling) the truckboss.
Its just attached via the frame rail camps. The legs just transfer the weight to the bed so the load does not ride on the bed rails.

Removal is actually super easy. I leave the bed rails on year round. The side extensions come off one at a time then I remove the 4 deck pieces one at a time and it’s done. Takes about 90 min, but I can do it by myself VS enlisting a crew of guys to lift off a standard deck.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2018 | 10:33 PM
  #26  
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any chance you have a photo with it removed? Sorry for the 3000 questions, I have emailed both truckboss and marlon, while they want to help not many of them have direct experience with these in the new trucks
 
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