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I have painted the bed (front) and the back of the cab so that I can install the bed and bed floor this winter (pics). I had to cut out the corrugated floor (77"x48") which left me with about 1/2" lip on each side.
* I could have the metal shop cut the piece to fit the 77x48 opening. However, I am thinking that I should use the 1/2" lip on each side for more support for the bed which would mean the metal piece would be 77x49.
If I go with the 77x49 and lay it on top of the lip, then I will need to add a 1/8" spacer/shim across the cross members/channels. I can do this but I was wanting some input from others that might have done this job.
I have painted the bed (front) and the back of the cab so that I can install the bed and bed floor this winter (pics). I had to cut out the corrugated floor (77"x48") which left me with about 1/2" lip on each side.
* I could have the metal shop cut the piece to fit the 77x48 opening. However, I am thinking that I should use the 1/2" lip on each side for more support for the bed which would mean the metal piece would be 77x49.
If I go with the 77x49 and lay it on top of the lip, then I will need to add a 1/8" spacer/shim across the cross members/channels. I can do this but I was wanting some input from others that might have done this job.
thanks
rsh1966
If everything is pretty square you could have them break the edges down 90 degrees and do a pinch weld underneath the floor. I'm getting ready to start on my bed in the next few days after i build something to roll it around on. Like everyone else I find it amazing that no one makes any parts for these beds. You would think that someone would at least re-pop a cross member. Considering how many of these trucks need the floor supports replaced.
Everything is pretty square. I will need to pull the tailgate end of the bed together about 1/4" or so.I am not sure right now how I will do this. As for the cross members, I had a small metal fabricator make two of the three. I salvaged one of them.
I plan on putting an "L" shape piece of trim around the edge of the bed and laying the metal pieces on it. At first, I will just lay all the pieces in to see how they fit. I am thinking about using some industrial strength epoxy when I am ready to make it permanent. If that does not look like it will work, then I will spot weld it. I will need to get someone to do the welding because I tend to burn holes in light gauge stuff.
Thanks for your comments.
rsh1966
Those are good links. I think the one from Canada looks closer to the right size corrugations. But none of these really match the pattern in our beds since they are rolled instead of stamped. The real problem with all these floors is the crating and shipping, not to mention the 600 to 900 dollars they want for the floor itself. I have been thinking about trying to locate a company like this one near me to see if they would roll a panel that would fit the bed. https://www.cbssheetmetal.com/custom-fabricated-metal/
Not sure if it will help your situation. I am restoring a 62 f100 styleside and used a new complete floor assembly from a chev 73-87 pickup. The corrugation profile is very close. If you remove the corners in front and rear of wheel wells, the corrugated center section fits perfect.It also had the 90 degree edges for easy spot welding. I am new to posting, will try and post pics
I agree the Canadian thread was interesting to see. I just know that by the time shipping is added to a very substantial metal bed cost it will be out of my reach. However, all input is appreciated.
I agree the Canadian thread was interesting to see. I just know that by the time shipping is added to a very substantial metal bed cost it will be out of my reach. However, all input is appreciated.
rsh1966
If you only needed patch pieces, as I do, you could use the 66-77 Bronco rear floor. The corrugations appear the same. I need to look at a Bronco first to be sure. But the part is way too small to replace the whole bed. Rear Section Panel (Complete Center Cargo Area)-Broncograveyard.com
Have you tried a local body shop to see what they can get from their suppliers. It's possible they can get a bed floor without the truck freight. It might not be Ford, but if can be made to fit. Who cares.
Cropduster
You are a much better welder than I am (but that's not saying much) to weld the bed down the middle. What will your cost be at the end ($250)? I think I will have to stick to the flat piece of steel for $100 even though your approach will look better (original).
rsh1966
Cropduster
You are a much better welder than I am (but that's not saying much) to weld the bed down the middle. What will your cost be at the end ($250)? I think I will have to stick to the flat piece of steel for $100 even though your approach will look better (original).
rsh1966
Actually a pinch weld was the way the bed floor was attached at the sides originally. A pinch weld is very easy to do once you have the metal fit and broke over in a 90 degree on the sides. And in my case down the center. It leaves a nice clean seam with no welds showing and if done correctly there should be almost zero warping. The pictures are just a couple of pieces of scrap I picked up off the floor but they illustrate a pinch weld and how it's done.
I would do a nice wood floor and make it fairly easy to remove. It looks good, is quieter, easy to replace when it gets dinged up and ... most importantly....you can remove it for easy access to any work you want to do under the bed in the future.