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Just picked up a '72 Sport Custom F100 with a 390 and a C6.
First thing I have to fix is the sloppy steering. I have 3-4 inches of throw in my steering wheel that accomplishes nothing. I'm new at this...steering box rebuild?....tie rods?
Matt
first of all look at your rag gear. it connects the steering rod to the steering box. see if it all tore up. there are like 2 bucks at any parts store. 2nd you can adjust the play in your steering by adjusting it on the gearbox itself. this is a trick thing and a easy thing read the forums there is alot of info here about that.
i just changed my steering gear box a couple months ago, it isnt hard, but that sob is awkward and heavy, try scouting junk yards for a good one. there like 145 bucks at autozone. make sure if you do go hunting for one that it is fairly clean and no evidence of leaks.
I don't know why they call it a rag gear, because it's not a gear....
I went to a number of places and could not find this part, just a rebuild kit that required drilling out some rivets and bolting back some of the old parts with the new flexible coupling. It's in that red-packaged HELP section of most parts stores where there are all of these odd parts for various cars. I didn't try the dealer.
My tie rod ends were pretty sloppy. I replaced my steering box, but mostly because it was leaking. It did have quite a few degrees of play considering the new one was tight.
Basically I did the whole front end including tie rod ends, drag link, king pins, pivot bushings, radius arm bushings, steering box and pump, and I had to relearn to drive the thing because it seemed so touchy, but I got used to it.
Check it all out with the front wheels in the air supported under the IBeams and you'll see pretty easily by jiggling the wheels both whether you need tie rods or king pins.
yeah mine was the same way, i redid all that stuff on mone to except for the tie rod ends, there on the list next. i still have a little problem with returning to center. i think i need to replace the steering rod itself, i gonna take it apart and clean it real good first though as they are a little pricey. did you ever try tighting that screw and nut on the steering gear box, that usually is the cause for alot of steering play ?
I thought about rebuilding, but it still involves taking out the unit, and that's enough of a job as well, particularly when you're not already removing the I-beam, spindle, radius arm and tie-rod and drag-link for other reasons.
I figured that $145 was well worth a nice tight steering box with a warranty. (And another $60 for a new pump, because with the leak, the old pump had run low a lot.)
Plus I've heard lots of horror stories of recirculating ***** recirculating out the box as your taking it apart and all over the floor.
Otherwise, I haven't actually replaced the seal.
Another comment about tie rod ends. I have found that it pays to grip the tierod end in your palm trying your best to make a fist around the tierod end. Then with your other hand, jiggle the wheel on it's kingpin axis. You can feel any slight play between the two halves much better than you can see slight play. Don't try to get the steering wheel to move. That's not the point. Your seeing if the wheel is turning while the pitman arm is not. Just lightly jiggle the wheel.
Last edited by user 5363849; Sep 11, 2003 at 12:16 PM.
The lower seal is easy to change. You take the big nut off the pitman shaft and the two bolts that hold the top cover and just tap it upward. You shouldn't even have to remove the box. Then you will find a snap ring on the bottom which holds the sealpack in. After removing it you can pull the seals out and replace them.